I believe this was a typo. A ph of 12 would precip everything out of the water and kill everything. The ph should be above 8.4 or so for awhile to kill dinos, although I have found that lights out works best and is the easiest.
Cool let me know if he starts to eat, I just lost one that went on a hunger strike for over a month! I've never tried so hard with so many different foods to get a fish to eat!
Is it just the tips of the props? The tips will contact the housing if the pump starts to spin backwards and this can break the tips off. Are you turning them on and off very often? Roger from tunze is great and will just send you a couple of new props.
Be carefull of the 6000s and 6100s as they are a much older series of pump that no longer have a serviceable motor block. This series used a "hockey puck" looking device as a power source (transformer) that plugged into a silver/blue box that is the driver. These drivers have a 5-din connector...
I usually feed mine mysis or krill, I've heard too many things about silversides going bad and can poison anemones. A healthy haddoni will be VERY sticky... like super glue sticky. I would start offering very small pieces of food like mysis and go from there.
good luck
hey roscoe, do you know of any dosing guidlines on these pellets? I have a somewhat large system, over 400 gallons, but cant find the guidline. the other products like the NP bio and the SWC pellets very greatly in how much to use.
any problems with it moving? I've got a gigantae and a h.mag in the same system and they stay put, but the haddoni keeps moving around and around a rock pile I have... I guess I just haven't found the sweet spot for flow and light yet.