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I did order a kit version. I purchased this: http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-28/24-Premium-LED-DIY/Detail After I placed my order RapidLed emailed me and asked what specifics I wanted. I told them I wanted PWM drivers and 24x 60 degree white optics. They got the kit to me in less then a week!

I actually don't run the LEDs yet, the one I've been talking about in the DIY forum and the one pictured above my tank is just a test fixture before I really break out the wallet and invest in my future 220 gallon setup.

On the web page you posted they have the askoll pulling 65-70 watts, yet the PSK2500 is only supposed to draw 25 watts. Doesn't that mean that dual sicce's would be more energy efficient then the askoll? Its obviously not much of a difference, but still worth noting if both of those power...

Rapidled has all the prices on the website, and they have gone down since I have bought LEDs a few weeks ago. I did not get the "Ultra-Premium", just the normal 24 bulb dimmable kit (I got PWM dimmable ballast but now i think i will be switching over to 0-10v dimming because most controllers...

I purchased: -24 LED CREE kit from rapidled. I got dimmable drivers but if you do not want them it is WAY easier and cheaper. -heatsink from heatsinkusa -Radio Shack Project Box -Breadboard and 10Kohm potentiometers from radioshack -20 gauge stranded wire from radio shack (I would use 22, or 24...

Looking at the FTS picture, did you not like the coverage with 60 degree optics? Or do you think 60 degree optics would be too much for the setup you are working on for yourself? The aluminum channel works great as a heat sink, but only if your LEDs are spaced 2-4" apart as you mentioned. I...

Ok, I am pretty sure I am going to sell my EuroReef and get a SWC. Rob, if you want first dibs on the CS8-3 just send me a pm with your offer. My question now is about bioload and potential SWC mods. As Ive mentioned before, I will have an SPS dominated 220 with a good amount of tangs, my...

I can definitely try. I also just ordered 24x 80 degree optics and 12x 40 degree optics from rapidled so I can play around with those numbers. I don't think that the water really acts like a lens, but if you do not use optics the spread is such that you can mount them extremely close to the...

I don't think i have ever posted in the monster thread, you must have seen my tank elsewhere. Also, my tank has a surface area 05 48 x 24 = 1152 so that short hand would suggest I need somewhere between 96 to 120 LEDs. After taking PAR readings in the tank I am sure this is flawed. I think...

Hahaha, there are much better build threads out their then my own! Thats great! The more people out there building their own LED fixtures the faster the technology and implementation will advance. The main reason commercial fixtures are so expensive is the time they spend in R&D, but DIYing...

I think the blending issue might just be an artifact of photography, unless you've seen them in person. If you look at the above "FTS" you can definitely see individual blue beams and white beams going through the sandbed, but in person this effect was hardly noticeable! It also all depends on...

www.rapidled.com www.heatsinkusa.com Radio Shack

Thoughts... Hands down, use optics. If you look at my raw data in the "in air" section you'll see that at 36" away from the emitter I was getting roughly 30 PAR around the perimeter of my testing area. Now go to the with optics data and you'll see that I'm still getting ~30 PAR on the...

Last but not least, I even have some water shots! I was so scared of my shoddy PVC rack dumping the entire fixture in the tank, but it did well! I think the PVC legs might have blocked light to some areas of the tank, but here goes: While the spread seems to cover more a full 24" of the tank...

Now I'm just going to throw data at you. Be prepared! Raw data that all of my charts are based off of: Graphs for spread with no optics, and the distance of the PAR meter away from the fixture: Side by Side comparisons: More of the same, with 60 degree optics:

I've been very busy this weekend, but I think i have something that everyone will enjoy. PAR Meter Time!!! I started out with a simple rig to hold the LEDs 36" off of the ground. All the blue tape you see on the floor marks off 6" in every direction, so I have 25 data points over a 24"x24"...

Some updates on the LED front! I went ahead and put silicone in the wire channel running perpendicular to the heatsink fins. I think my problem before was i overtightened the fan mounting rails, but this will still put my mind at ease. Lifted wires out of the channels: Silicone bead...

Well, technically the array is done! Talk about a weekend project, now I just have a bunch of finishing touches to add. I highly suggest getting one of these 2x AAA battery testers from radio shack if you're going to do a LED build. I was able to test every connection as I soldered them in...

As suggested I hooked my multimeter up in series with the LEDs after turning the SVR2 pot down all the way (counter-clockwise). It turns out my multimeter does work just fine after I switched the positive chord to the 10A socket. Lights! with my dimming circuit on full blast (10V) and the...

This is coming along really fast! I forgot how much I enjoy soldering and electricity stuff. ALL of the blue LEDs wired in series! Wiring hidden in the fins: With all that done and my voltage regulator working, its time to wire up some drivers! Standard AC power chord, soldered and heat...