Anyone try StevesLEDs.com?

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freakin

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Joined
Apr 25, 2010
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I'm almost set to build a retrofit for my BC29 using LEDs. I was originally going to use Cree because they are pretty much the standard, but with everyone running them at 30-40% power it just seems insane to spend so much without utilizing the full power they offer.

So StevesLEDs basically took a look at 6-7 different chinese 3W diodes, did a heavy stress test to see which ones were the most reliable, and worked directly with the manufacturer to tune the blue diodes to be a true actinic radiative spectrum (455nm)

Here is some info I got from him through email
Actinic Royal Blue
Vf = 3.3-3.6V (AC or DC)
Lux output - 175 Lux (35 Lumens)
Current - 700ma max
90° lens
455nm (for true radiative actinic)

Midday Sun Ultra White
Vf = 3.3-3.6V (AC or DC)
Lux output - 658 Lux (150-180 Lumens)
Current - 700ma max
90° lens
7,000 Kelvin color temperature. This is consistent between batches. When ordering white LEDs, all purchases will come from the identical batch.

Max saturation temperature for extended lifespan is 122° F.

All unprepared LEDs are baked per standard guidelines up receiving the shipment at 180° F for 24 hours and stored in a 0.01% humidity environment thereafter. All LEDs are cycled every 6 months to ensure they are fresh.

Actual tests of Steve's LEDs reflect similar numbers to the comparable Cree XR-E and Luxeon Rebel LEDs, all at less than 1/3rd the price.
I have compared a 4 array setup of both Steve's LEDs and Cree XR-Es. This consisted of 14 Whites and 14 Blues. Both types of LEDs had an equivalent PAR level, with a deviance of about 4%. Both were essentially equivalent to 80% of what one 250W metal halide puts out.

Now on to the important part, his diodes mounted on stars are only $2.15 instead of the 3x more expensive Cree diodes.

I'm doing my build with these over the Cree. I figure worst case I have to scrap his diodes and I'm only out $50-60. If they perform well, I've done a full retrofit of my BC29 for $180 instead of ~$300.

Anyone else try these yet?
 
lets look at it this way. on a 15 amp circuit breaker you don't want to run 15 amps on it you want it to be at 2/3-3/4% draw MAX

This is the same with all electronics..
Running them at full power will shorten the life..by running them "HOT"

Like my 54W T-5's I run at 84w with an ICECAP 660... they burn out of color in around 6 months instead of 8-12 months..

Just like car stereo's
Amplifiers are not meant to be run on full power
but performance is about 50% Any higher you sacrifice performance for power....
 
The rated life of an LED running at full power is just insane though (like 11-13 years for a typical reef tank). People are running them at 30-40% power not because they are preserving lifespam. They run them at 30-40% because to have sufficient coverage you need a lot of LEDs, but that many LEDs is too intense for most of the tank and stuff starts to melt.
 
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