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newlyreefd

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Chester, VA
I have a 20g Brute trash can that I'll be using for my ATO system. I would like to drill a hole at the bottom to run the tubing from my pump. Which will be placed at the bottom of the trash can, through the hole and lead to my sump. What I'm asking is what type of plumbing piece can I put in the drilled hole to connect the hose from the pump, through the hole, then from the hole to the sump? Thanks. I hope I explained it clearly. Confused myself a little. lol
 
I don't know if I understood correctly, but if I did, I think what you are looking for is a uniseal. Here's the description BRS has for them
"Uniseals are used to attach pipe to just about any container in situation where bulkheads will not work. The most common use is on curved surfaces such as storage drums, buckets or even other pipe"
 
I have a 20g Brute trash can that I'll be using for my ATO system. I would like to drill a hole at the bottom to run the tubing from my pump. Which will be placed at the bottom of the trash can, through the hole and lead to my sump. What I'm asking is what type of plumbing piece can I put in the drilled hole to connect the hose from the pump, through the hole, then from the hole to the sump? Thanks. I hope I explained it clearly. Confused myself a little. lol

Why run the risk of something leaking.
Why not just hook up the tubing to the pump inside the container and run it out the open top?


Uniseal or a bulkhead fitting is what most people use.
 
Why run the risk of something leaking.
Why not just hook up the tubing to the pump inside the container and run it out the open top?


Uniseal or a bulkhead fitting is what most people use.
im with Marty on this one. why put a hole in something that doesn't leak.
 
I have a 20g Brute trash can that I'll be using for my ATO system. I would like to drill a hole at the bottom to run the tubing from my pump. Which will be placed at the bottom of the trash can, through the hole and lead to my sump. What I'm asking is what type of plumbing piece can I put in the drilled hole to connect the hose from the pump, through the hole, then from the hole to the sump? Thanks. I hope I explained it clearly. Confused myself a little. lol



Are you planning on using a internal pump or a external pump?

If have a external pump already and want to go that way, then a bulkhead fitting or uniseal would be perfect.
If you are planning a internal pump, then I would keep the container intact and just come out the top.

I am using a 32 gallon Rubbermaid container for one topoff and I use a maxi-jet down in the bottom.
I have another topoff container that is a dog food storeage container and use a aqualifter pump for it.
 
People jump out of perfectly good airplanes for fun. drilling holes is fun too! lol
perfectly good airplanes still seem to crash every so often... sometimes its best to get out when you can.. :)

my preference also would to be to just use the existing big hole on the top... but most folks don't report a lot of problems with uniseals either..
 
Thanks for all your input guys. And for opening up my eyes to some potential hazards. All your points make a lot of sense. I was only doing it to make it look a little cleaner and to cut back on the head loss of the pump. I have the Hydor ATO system and am using the Cobalt MJ1200 for the pump. I'm just going to go over the top instead of, like you said, putting a hole in a perfectly good container. Thanks again.
 
totally unnecessary. the best part about an ato is how little volume it actually pushes at time..
 
I was just wondering, should your ATO reservoir be heated or not necessary?



I actually do have a heater and a powerhead in my ato container, but it is out in my garage.
I also use the ato container to take water from when I do water changes on my 50 gallon tank which is on the other end of the house.
 
My ATO reservoir is in the backyard, unheated even during the winter freeze. It is pumping into a large kalk unit and then into the 180's 50 gal sump. Smaller tanks would evaporate less. No reason to preheat ATO water. The 55 gal reservoir has a small pump in it that pumps the water up and over the edge through the wall into the system. It has a syphon break to prevent gravity taking over control.
 
My ATO reservoir is at room temp. It's a 10 gallon aquarium tucked behind a file cabinet that is close to my tank.
 
Important to have good head pressure w/air break!

Something to ponder...with pump located at barrel bottom, connect MJ1200 pump w/vinyl tubing the hight of the barrel to a reducer barbed connector that will join airline tubing to the remaining run to the tank/sump aggitation area. The air break can also be a barbed brass-T within the length of airline exposed to air within the barrel. This allows good head pressure to slowly feed water to your system for ATO. For larger holding tanks it is advisable to aireate/circulate the water volume to prevent stagnation issues. If you are really ambitious you could do a external bulkheaded PVC rise return to include a turn valved section including a "T" to a barbed fitting to attach a large vinyl hose to reach secondary mixing tubs/tanks as needed.

IMG_1239.jpg
 
I really like you setup could you share more info ? I have the same barrow :)

Something to ponder...with pump located at barrel bottom, connect MJ1200 pump w/vinyl tubing the hight of the barrel to a reducer barbed connector that will join airline tubing to the remaining run to the tank/sump aggitation area. The air break can also be a barbed brass-T within the length of airline exposed to air within the barrel. This allows good head pressure to slowly feed water to your system for ATO. For larger holding tanks it is advisable to aireate/circulate the water volume to prevent stagnation issues. If you are really ambitious you could do a external bulkheaded PVC rise return to include a turn valved section including a "T" to a barbed fitting to attach a large vinyl hose to reach secondary mixing tubs/tanks as needed.

IMG_1239.jpg
 

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