Bottom drilled or Back drilled drains

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If you have room behind the tank for back-drilled drains, then choose them.

Back-drilled drains take up less interior tank space (by back-drilled, I assume you mean drilled in the upper-back corners)

Back-drilled drains weaken the tank less for a given hole size.

A leak (for example, after an earthquake, etc shifts the bulkhead a bit) will not drain your tank with a back-drilled drain.

It is easier to set a back-drilled tank on the stand (this may not sound important, but think about trying to set a 240-gal or larger tank on a stand. The empty tank is heavy, and if it is bottom-drilled you have that drain sticking out the bottom that you need to be careful not to bump.)

One problem with back-drilled drains - this doesn't work well with tanks visible on all sides.
 
Don thanks, this helps a lot. Is the noise the same on either. I have a back drilled tank that I was considering adding overflow boxes on. Do you or anyone think it would it lessen the drain noise with a durso type elbow inside the boxes?
 
can i drill the back of my new tank?

what is it

you cant drilled temperd glass?
or you can?

either way i dont want to drill the bottem but
the back that is a diffrent story.
 
Picture3001325.jpg

make a little box, after drilling a hole like that. either on the long side of the short side. (most likely long )
 
You cannot drill tempered. With good polarized sun glasses you can see the crazing in tempered glass.

Don
 
Don thanks, this helps a lot. Is the noise the same on either. I have a back drilled tank that I was considering adding overflow boxes on. Do you or anyone think it would it lessen the drain noise with a durso type elbow inside the boxes?
The gurgling happens when the drain line is not vented. So if you put a T on the outside of the tank, the upper end of the T provides the venting and the drain will be quiet. Also, using spaflex (instead of rigid PVC) makes things quieter as well.
 
im only guessing but id say the sides arent temperd.

that being the case, 2 use a 3/4 bulk head i require a 1 1/2" hole,

look here
http://www.dadsrockshop.com/diamond_drills.html
if i get the 1 and 1/2" hole bit on the bottem. that will make me a hole of


wait im confuesed.



http://www.jehmco.com/PRODUCTS_/HARDWARE_/Bulkhead_Fittings/bulkhead_fittings.html\
ok jehmco has the drill bits and all right there never mind i awnserd my own q

GDB1.75 would be used to make a hole for a 1"bulk head.

the price would be about the same to get a Crp over flow. but this was i could make 2 boxs in the corner

with 2 1" holes on the back of the tank what kind of GPH do you think i can get?
 
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Here is the overflow box I used in my son's tank:
166o-flwboxs.JPG

Attached it in place in one of the back corners with silicone aquarium sealer.
By the way - I drilled for an 1-1/4" bulkhead for his 20-gal tank. Don't remember the hole size anymore.
 
thats nice did you make that or buy that.



how bad is the drilling, i have a nice dawalt corded drill

how hard is it to drill glass?

Made that. Plexiglass is easy to work with woodworking tools.

The two times I drilled glass tanks, I used a drill press. Go slowly, use plenty of water for cooling. The hole say I used was a normal hole saw with carbide grit instead of teeth for the cutting edge.
By the way - the hole saws you gave a link to will either require a drill press or (at a minimum) you will need to make a wood template to guide the bit, and hold it in one place. A bit like that, in a free-hand drill, will dance all over the place.
 
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hmmm maybe its not as eazy to drill then

i could make a wooden templet for the bit to set in, glue that to the out side of the tank, drill away

(i was planing on doing this inside.)\

maybe ill reconsiter

its eazy enough to make a guide for the bit,

and the plexzglass is eazy 2. Im just worried about drilling

water for cooling or oil based lube
i have tapze for ddrilling
 
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Water cooling is fine for glass. I made a dam with modeling clay (larger than the drill bit diameter), and kept that filled with water as I drilled.
 
i think its do a bul.

all i gotta do is get the bit and the bulk heads. make a guide for the bit to sit in,
turn the tank on its side. use the guide to make a small circlelur indentation. then remove the guide make my clay dam and drill away.

gotta give it some time to think about

might be better then buying a over flow.
 
Mike...I'd personally say either one. Which ever one works for you, then that's good enough. Bottom drilled IMO are just as strong as back drilled if done at the factory because the hole is drilled and then the bottom is tempered afterwards obviously. All of All-Glass' reef ready tanks with the built in overflows have the holes drilled through the bottom not the back. What comes into play is where you have more space or need more space. If you drill through the bottom, you lose valuable tanks space with the overflow extending the full height of the tank, but the tank can pretty much butt up to a wall. You drill the back, you get more space in the tank, but the tank has to be a ways off the wall for the plumbing to clear. Just a thought...:)
 
Krish, that helps a lot too. Tank in question is Finn's 180. 2 large drain Holes are in the back and have vented Ts out the back. I have plenty room. Still a bit noisy, so was thinking of adding overflow boxes in front of the drain holes with a dursa elbow. Think it would be quieter?
 
Yeah man...It should be. What kind on noise is it? Belching, gurgling sounds? I know the sump's input makes a big difference on gurgling/belching sounds. I use to have tons of issues with that and eventually put a "T" on the exit in the sump and never had a problem since. If it is just the actual drain itself making noise, then you will have to try something else like the durso etc if you have the space. Not sure if this will help because I've never tried it, but on a CPR overflow, they have a hole in the center of the bulkhead strainer that leads to the sump where you put a plastic straw looking thing in to allow the air to escape quieting it down. You can push it down or raise it up to the right level where the noise is cancelled. I always wondered if something similar like that would work with a drain like the one on your tank. I always said if I set up a simliar overflow/drain like the one you're using, the cap on the top on the outside, I'd drill a hole in the center of the cap and push a straw or tube down the hole and see if that helps with noise. Not sure if it will work, but just wondered:p
 
Im not sure really. im weighing my options here.

my mother thinks its a bad idea she says "no way no how would i drill my glass"

I dont know
i could do it probly. I mean Im sure i can do it, but will it crack break split i dont know

this is really tuff.

i could just by a Crp cs150 for not that much,

the bit costs 70 something

figer 100 after shiping and some clay.

take the tank on its side. (after makeing my wooding templet guideing tool)
get it started, take the tool away, make the clay mote. fill with water and drill away (slowly)

its just ive never drilled glass. i think it might be wise to try it on a nice peace of 1/2" glass that i can buy somewere and pracitse first.

Ill get back 2 you guys on this one, ill let you know what im gonna do when i figer it out

I really want that over flow. I could make 2 real nice box's on the inside glue em up make it look real sharp.

i would have to test with water levels first
 
Replies in bold
Yeah man...It should be. What kind on noise is it?
Belching, gurgling sounds? Just gurgling drain noiseI know the sump's input makes a big difference on gurgling/belching sounds. I use to have tons of issues with that and eventually put a "T" on the exit in the sump and never had a problem since. Both drains have TsIf it is just the actual drain itself making noise, then you will have to try something else like the durso etc if you have the space. Yes, space for overflow and dursaNot sure if this will help because I've never tried it, but on a CPR overflow, they have a hole in the center of the bulkhead strainer that leads to the sump where you put a plastic straw looking thing in to allow the air to escape quieting it down. Have one exactly, works greatYou can push it down or raise it up to the right level where the noise is cancelled. I always wondered if something similar like that would work with a drain like the one on your tank. I always said if I set up a simliar overflow/drain like the one you're using, the cap on the top on the outside, I'd drill a hole in the center of the cap and push a straw or tube down the hole and see if that helps with noise. Not sure if it will work, but just wondered I have removed the cap and no change, seems enough air getss pulled in as it is. Marty wasn't sure if the boxes would help either, said it's a gamble. What else is new:rolleyes: :lol: :p
 
Burning2nd, your mother is very smart. Pay a glass shop to do the drilling. Would be a bummer to have the drill bit twist, seize up, and crack the tank.
 

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