hello, So I was looking at my sps today and noticed some tiny orange bugs on a tri-color I have. Any Ideas? I wish I can get a picture ,but my camera sucks. Had the tri-color for over 2 years,transferred from old tank. Thanks for any help
bugs on sps
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Herefishyfishy
Smart Bass
The cure is worse than the infestation IMHO
Interceptor tabs, kills most inverts such as all your crabs shrimp, pods, etc.
Red-bugs are an irritant at worst. Some of the most amazingly successful acro tanks I have seen were teeming with Red-Bugs
Interceptor tabs, kills most inverts such as all your crabs shrimp, pods, etc.
Red-bugs are an irritant at worst. Some of the most amazingly successful acro tanks I have seen were teeming with Red-Bugs
So what should I do?
Red bugs, and their effect on SPS, vary, in my opinion. To agree with Mike, I've seen some very healthy SPS colonies, that have had Red bugs on them. In other tanks, I've seen SPS colonies, with red bugs that are obviously irritated and show no polyp extension, at all, until the red bugs are removed. Then those SPS colonies show quick recovery.
Red bugs only infect Acropora family, such as your Acropora valida. This can include any Acropora and Millepora, since they're in the Acropora family.
Red bugs can be killed, using Interceptor, which will require a prescription, from a vet, to obtain.
Interceptor does kill Red bugs, but will also kill other motile inverts, in your system.
If at all possible, remove ALL Acropora, and treat separately, in a QT tank. This isn't always 100% successful, as there could still be a small amount of Red bugs, in your display tank, that have fallen off of your Acropora or are migrating from one Acropora to another. However, this is still the avenue I would try, first.
Another option does exist and has shown a lot of promise, thought CANNOT be done, in your display tank.
CoralRx has been shown to kill, or at least stun Red bugs, knocking them off of Acropora, quickly. You can mix up a "bath" of saltwater/CoralRx, and bathe the corals, for about 15 minutes. Before the corals are returned to the tank, they'll need to be "rinsed" in saltwater, minus CoralRx.
After any treatment, watch all of your Acropora closely, for any signs of a return of Red Bugs. Using a magnifying glass is very helpful, as these buggers are almost not visible, to the naked eye.
Red bugs only infect Acropora family, such as your Acropora valida. This can include any Acropora and Millepora, since they're in the Acropora family.
Red bugs can be killed, using Interceptor, which will require a prescription, from a vet, to obtain.
Interceptor does kill Red bugs, but will also kill other motile inverts, in your system.
If at all possible, remove ALL Acropora, and treat separately, in a QT tank. This isn't always 100% successful, as there could still be a small amount of Red bugs, in your display tank, that have fallen off of your Acropora or are migrating from one Acropora to another. However, this is still the avenue I would try, first.
Another option does exist and has shown a lot of promise, thought CANNOT be done, in your display tank.
CoralRx has been shown to kill, or at least stun Red bugs, knocking them off of Acropora, quickly. You can mix up a "bath" of saltwater/CoralRx, and bathe the corals, for about 15 minutes. Before the corals are returned to the tank, they'll need to be "rinsed" in saltwater, minus CoralRx.
After any treatment, watch all of your Acropora closely, for any signs of a return of Red Bugs. Using a magnifying glass is very helpful, as these buggers are almost not visible, to the naked eye.
Herefishyfishy
Smart Bass
You will get mixed opinions but I suggest to do nothing.
If you sell or trade corals, be sure to disclose redbugs as some hobbiests feel they are concidered a disease.
In the future, best to dip all new additions as some other parasites are truly nasty.
Michael said it very well.
If you sell or trade corals, be sure to disclose redbugs as some hobbiests feel they are concidered a disease.
In the future, best to dip all new additions as some other parasites are truly nasty.
Michael said it very well.
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Yikes! I dont want to tear apart to take oout crads and snails. I have a pistol shrimp and emerald crabs in there. Any other choices in getting rid of them?
All of the choices that I'm aware of, I've already outlined.
Do Nothing
Treat entire tank with Interceptor (high probability of killing all Red Bugs)(Some motile inverts will survive, others won't)
Remove Acropora and treat separately, either with Interceptor or CoralRx. (high probability of kill Most Red Bugs)
There's been some who say that certain fish will help, though I don't even mention that option, as it's not very reliable. Mandarin's may help, but only slightly. Certain Wrasses may help, but again, only slightly.
Here's a couple good articles.
http://www.melevsreef.com/redbugs.html
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/june2003/feature.htm
Read up, a lot, on Red Bugs and the treatments. There's lots of information available and a lot of treatments have been tried, that don't work.
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user 26995
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I have a wrasse that is a very active eater. He is constantly searching the coral and rocks for food. He is a hawaiian saddle wrasse. Picked him up two weeks ago. There are other wrasses that will eat bugs that are reef safe and I would think that one would keep them in check enough that they would never be a pest, if not get rid of them completely. I had flatworms in the tank almost two years ago. Put a fairy wrasse in the tank and with in a couple days the flatworms were gone. The wrasse jumped out of the tank about 8 months later, but to this day, still no flatworms.
(moral of the story is...wrasses can eradicate unwated pests) its an alternative natural treatment that may just work.
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Herefishyfishy
Smart Bass
I had wrasses in the tank almost two years ago. Put a flatworm in the tank and within a couple days the wrasses were gone. The flatworm crawled out of the tank about 8 months later, but to this day, still no wrasses.
Moral of the story, Hmmmmm, guess there is none... :>)
Moral of the story, Hmmmmm, guess there is none... :>)
user 26995
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saltwaterfishes
12 Step Zoa Program
You can do interceptor dip....given that you can take out colony. Red bugs are easy to get rid of compare to pests on zoas.
saltwaterfishes
12 Step Zoa Program
If you're in the area, I can give you some interceptor.
Catlin, I bought some corals from you a while back. I'm pretty close to u. If you still live at the same spot. Would tommorow in the morning work? Before noon
sent from my super android machine
sent from my super android machine
saltwaterfishes
12 Step Zoa Program
I should be home, give me before heading out. Pm me if you don't have my number anymore.
Pm sent thanks =)
sent from my super android machine
sent from my super android machine
Thanks CAtlin for the Inteceptor and the zoos. They opened up already =)
snailcrazy
Tortman
Interceptor worked good for me. Dosed a total of about 8 times because after the first 4 times they came back. Used just a crumb of the pill (maybe 1/100th of it if even. Took most of the hermits out but the ones that were left including my Giant Pom pom crab all survived and I didn't notice any loss of pods either. In my opinion it takes very little interceptor to do the job but must dose at least once a week for several weeks to kill all bugs and the ones that will hatch . Also is my understanding that they will lay eggs on the rock as well, so dipping just the corals may not always work. Good Luck. Sure saw an improvement once they were gone.
Very cool! I might have to do it like that. How did you prepare the interceptor? How big is your tank? Did you leave the skimmer on? I have a 29bc. Should I follow the saME steps?
Herefishyfishy
Smart Bass
WOW, if just a 29 gal, pull all the inverts out into a temp holding tank (bucket with heater?) and nuke the tank with full dose intercepter.
"According to Dorton, 1 Interceptor™ tablet (intended for large dogs weighing 51-100 pounds) weighs one gram and contains 23 milligrams of milbemycin oxime. One tablet is ground to powder and 25 milligrams is added to a small container of aquarium water and mixed (this might take quite a bit of stirring). This water containing 25 mg of the tablet is sufficient to treat 10 gallons of actual water volume in the aquarium. In other words, 1 tablet containing 23 mg of milbemycin oxime will treat 380 gallons, according to Dorton (400 gallons according to my calculation). A local school or university, laboratory, or larger water or wastewater treatment plant will have an analytical scale (or balance). They might perform weight analyses for you.*
■Remove all shrimp and crabs from the aquarium. Remove mechanical filtration and activated carbon. Turn off UV sterilizers and protein skimmers (but water should still circulate through these vessels in order for these volumes of water to be medically treated as well).
■Add a sufficient amount of medication to the aquarium. Allow treatment to proceed for 6 hours, and perform a 25% water change. Resume use of carbon, skimming, etc.
■Repeat this procedure 7 days later, and again after 14 days.
■* Dosage is apparently not as critical as suggested by Dorton, as time has confirmed that higher concentrations (5x or more than that recommended by Dorton) of milbemycin oxime does little, if any, harm to corals."
Aquarium Corals: Stony Coral Parasites: Red and Black Bugs: Identification Guide, Preventive Measures, and a Review of Treatment Protocols | Advanced Aquarist's Online Magazine
"According to Dorton, 1 Interceptor™ tablet (intended for large dogs weighing 51-100 pounds) weighs one gram and contains 23 milligrams of milbemycin oxime. One tablet is ground to powder and 25 milligrams is added to a small container of aquarium water and mixed (this might take quite a bit of stirring). This water containing 25 mg of the tablet is sufficient to treat 10 gallons of actual water volume in the aquarium. In other words, 1 tablet containing 23 mg of milbemycin oxime will treat 380 gallons, according to Dorton (400 gallons according to my calculation). A local school or university, laboratory, or larger water or wastewater treatment plant will have an analytical scale (or balance). They might perform weight analyses for you.*
■Remove all shrimp and crabs from the aquarium. Remove mechanical filtration and activated carbon. Turn off UV sterilizers and protein skimmers (but water should still circulate through these vessels in order for these volumes of water to be medically treated as well).
■Add a sufficient amount of medication to the aquarium. Allow treatment to proceed for 6 hours, and perform a 25% water change. Resume use of carbon, skimming, etc.
■Repeat this procedure 7 days later, and again after 14 days.
■* Dosage is apparently not as critical as suggested by Dorton, as time has confirmed that higher concentrations (5x or more than that recommended by Dorton) of milbemycin oxime does little, if any, harm to corals."
Aquarium Corals: Stony Coral Parasites: Red and Black Bugs: Identification Guide, Preventive Measures, and a Review of Treatment Protocols | Advanced Aquarist's Online Magazine
