Chiller Amps

[plaz]

Hi,
We have a Titan 1500 Aqua Medic Chiller (sold as 1/2 HP but really much less because of some sort of import translation). Aqua Medic says the operating amps = 3.4 and it should not go over 5 or 6 amps at startup. We would like to plug it to a controlled Neptune outlet that will take a maximum of 6 amps. However, I'm still a little concerned because other chillers list so many more amps and Neptune says to get the HD - 12 amp outlet (which would cost us $120 more).

The chiller is imported, so amps are not listed on the chiller (but I'm sure the Technician knew). The case does say operating watts = 340 and chilling watts = 790... it is the 790 chilling I am concerned with. Does that mean it actually might draw that much (over the 5 or 6 Aqua Medic quotes)?

I wish I had something to measure the amps - but don't. Anyone know if it would really be safe on a 6 amp outlet?

Thanks!

 

[Scooterman]

I would suspect the inrush would meet or exceed 6 amps.

 

[plaz]

Is there anything cheap we can pickup to test it accurately - or do you think it is better to just shell out the $120 for the HD for extra safety?

Thanks!!!

 

[Scooterman]

Best way would be with a meter, maybe try to rent one, other than that call the manufacturer.

 

[plaz]

Thanks Scooter - but it was the chiller manufacturer (Aqua Medic) that said it was 3.4 amps / should not exceed 6. Neptune (outlet manufacturer) said they think AM is wrong.

 

[big t]

Well what you need to do is add your own outlet, it will be simple. You buy a relay from mcmaster that can handle up to 15 amps, and get one that is 110v on both sides. Then you build a little plug that plugs into your neptune and that will only draw around .01 amps to switch your new relay, this will be attatched to the coil on the relay. Then on the other side of the relay you can switch a hot, it will be connected to the NO, then when it gets actuated it will close and turn on your chiller. You can do all of this for about 10 bux. You could probably even find a acceptable relay over at radio shack.

 

[Scooterman]

1/2hp = 373 watts
373w/120v=3.108amps
I can see where you would inrush close to 6 amps.
I like BigT's solution, the relay is a cheap fix that is just as safe option.

 

[robthorn]

why don't you use x10 with your neptune? I have ice cap ballasts running on the same circuit the modules plug into and have no problems with my x10. I also build chillers and do a/c work for a living. if your near tampa fl.I could check for you. I would find someone doing a/c or electrical work and have them measure with the chiller being under load. meaning normal tank temps with water running through the evaporator coil. I had a thread on another board on building the one for my buddy tony/tonytooth/reefrelated. I used a window unit for the condensor which draws alot less amps than the same size chiller being mass produced. mine were drawing right near 4.3 amps. not saying aquamedic can't do it but I doubt they can get down to 3 amps even if it's 3.9. there are no regulations for efficiency on there units and there coils are about half the size meaning the same size unit pressures might be higher and in return the amp draw would be higher. all recipricating compressors of the same size draw very near the same amp draw doing the same amount of work. difference might be a scroll type or screw type compressor which would cost alot more than they are putting into fish tank chillers. the compressor would be a minimum of twice the cost. aquamedic as far as I can tell is not into giving more for free and there prices are right inline with the better chiller manufacturers using recipricating compressors.
this is in no way shape or for a plug for business I am plenty busy on my own
robert

 

[Reefrubble]

big t is right. My Ice Cap ballasts are 240 v ,and I didn't have a 240 v timer,but I did have a 2 pole 30 amp contactor . the 120 v timer energizes the coil on the contactor which turns on my lights.

 

[plaz]

Thanks everyone!

I ended up finding a good deal on a DC4HD and bought it so the chiller would definately be safe. Big Ts solution would have worked too.. but the deal was good and we needed a few more controlled outlets anyway.

X10s would have been cheaper than the DCs. However, I read alot of threads where people had trouble with interferencc - sometimes long after they installed them. We went for the outlets in the hopes they would be more stable overall.

Also, I agree that the AquaMedic is not in the league of Pacific Coast, etc. (and it is not really 1/2 hp... but it works fine for our setup). We got it when Premium Aquatics ran it for $440 shipped (over a year ago now).