Chiller
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Scooterman
Well-known member
For that size tank I'd get at least a 1/3 H.P. tradwinds, aqualogic, JBJ are a few to mention.
MC Lighting
A Little Overboard!
I have a 1/2 HP Coralife Aqua Chill it does a good job of cooling down the 180 however before the hot season kicks up I need ot dismantle the outer shell and vibration proof it the unit itseld is very quiet its the housing that is rediculously loud you would think for the money they could add a little felt stripping in between the sheet metal parts....
Maxx
Staff Housemonkey
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There are some things to keep in mind when picking a chiller for your system:
What is the total system volume?
How much of a temperature pull down do you need for your system?
How much space do you have available for plumbing the chiller and venting the exhaust?
The first two are the most important, as they will determine the size your chiller needs to be. Too small a chiller for your system, and it will always be running trying to keep the water temps stable. Too large, and it will cool your tank too quickly, causing the chiller to short cycle/turn on and off frequently. This wastes electricity, causes frequent tempurature fluctuations, (which kinda defeats the overall goal of having a chiller....ie...making your tank more stable.), and will cause your chiller to blow fuzes faster.
I've used a PCH chiller, works fine, a little noisy, and used a significant amount of energy while running. If I had to buy a chiller right now for my system, I would lean strongly towards a Current USA. They are reliable from what I've been able to see on various forums, priced comparably to everyone else, and use less energy to run than anything else I've seen...doesnt mean there arent more efficient chillers out there, just that I'm not aware of them.
Nick
Scooterman
Well-known member
My 1/4H.P. Aqua-Logic runs at 5.4 Amps, I have an Ammeter to see it, also on start-up the In-rush is over 22 amps! You must compare BTU's vrs the wattage consumed to get an efficiency comparison, only problem I don't have anything to measure BTU's so I have to take what they rate their units as being correct. I agree, you need to be really careful when sizing as Nick says, also you need around a foot of air front & back as not to recirculate heat being removed, larger units require more air space front & back.
Maxx
Staff Housemonkey
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Not necessarily true.
How much of a temp pull down do you need? You might only need a 1/5th hp unit. You absolutely need to know how much lower you want your water temp to be in order to appropriately size your chiller. If you only need to go down a few degrees then you might not even need a chiller.
Nick
How much of a temp pull down do you need? You might only need a 1/5th hp unit. You absolutely need to know how much lower you want your water temp to be in order to appropriately size your chiller. If you only need to go down a few degrees then you might not even need a chiller.
Nick
Scooterman
Well-known member
I know replacing my main sump return with a different pump lowered my water temps by 5 degrees, that is a huge impact on a 160g of water. Wait till it is really hot outside & see how much you need!
I have 155g sps tank with 30g sum. All i need is to stablize the temporature arround 78-80 F degree.
Scooterman
Well-known member
but what is the worse heat gain do you have? If you had no heat control, mid summer what is the highest your temps. go?
Herefishyfishy
Smart Bass
On my 180 in a heated basement with three 250w halides, 4 six foot VHOs, and a few "cooler" running pumps, I needed to upgrade from a 1/4hp Aqua-via to a 1/3 hp current. I have 4 different hood fans running. Chiller now only runs off an on, and not on a cooler day. Lower power bills with the better fit chiller. I love my current. Not noise free, but quite efficient.
When I leave the doors open on the hood, the chiller rarely runs. Perhaps, shows how better fans would allow a smaller chiller
When I leave the doors open on the hood, the chiller rarely runs. Perhaps, shows how better fans would allow a smaller chiller
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Thanks again Mike for always giving good input. my tank has 3 250W MH and 4 48" VHO. The external pumps for return and skimmer are in the cabinet also add more heat. It easily got to 82+ arround this time of the year. Summer maybe worse.
I saw some aqua-via 1/3 on Ebay for 399 plus shipping. How was yours working?
Maxx
Staff Housemonkey
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Okay, now we're getting somewhere...
First of all, add a fan to the cabinet to vent out the heat and help out with evaporative cooling. See how much that drops the temp. Right now, you dont need a chiller. You're right in the perfect range for SPS...80-82. I know people who run their tanks at 84, but thats at the high end temp wise IMO...
If a fan drops your temp significantly, you can get a Ranco Dual Temp Controller and set it to turn on/off Fans and heaters to maintain the tank. All at alot less money upfront than a chiller, and less electrical use long term as well.
My preoccupation with electricity usage stems from my last tank (58 gallons) using 10 amps of electricity and having had several long power outtages due to storms 2 years ago. I have a generator, but dont want to use all of its power to run the tank...
Nick
First of all, add a fan to the cabinet to vent out the heat and help out with evaporative cooling. See how much that drops the temp. Right now, you dont need a chiller. You're right in the perfect range for SPS...80-82. I know people who run their tanks at 84, but thats at the high end temp wise IMO...
If a fan drops your temp significantly, you can get a Ranco Dual Temp Controller and set it to turn on/off Fans and heaters to maintain the tank. All at alot less money upfront than a chiller, and less electrical use long term as well.
My preoccupation with electricity usage stems from my last tank (58 gallons) using 10 amps of electricity and having had several long power outtages due to storms 2 years ago. I have a generator, but dont want to use all of its power to run the tank...
Nick
Thanks Nick for the tip. I'll had on fan under the stand and another under the hood. Right now I am OK with the temp range but have to prepare for the spring and summer comming up. I usually keep both hood and cabinet wide open when I am not home. I also have a long 1/2" closed loop tube run outside and soak in a cool water container but that only works a few hours before the container water got warm. Maybe I can live with that for another few month to see. Highest temp I got last week was 82.9
Herefishyfishy
Smart Bass
In the summer even with all cabinet doors open and fans running, the chiller will kick on. Keep in mind that leaving the hood doors open is how I lost my precious Mystery wrasse and a few firefish. There typically is an upside and downside to each solution.
Mike,
Is it what you have and what you used to have? What do you think?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320183464770
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-3-HP-Via-Aqua-Aquarium-Chiller-Water-Cooler-NEW_W0QQitemZ330214258394
Herefishyfishy
Smart Bass
Not quite. Used to have 1/4 Hp Aqua via and now have 1/3 Hs Current
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-4-HP-Aquarium...yZ117433QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Current-USA-1-3...ZWD1VQQ_trksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-4-HP-Aquarium...yZ117433QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Current-USA-1-3...ZWD1VQQ_trksidZp1638.m118.l1247QQcmdZViewItem
