Diy Metal Halide

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dngspot

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Jul 7, 2006
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I posted this on another forum, but think it could be usfull here. I have posted the pics on this site with my tank build, sorry for the duplicate. I would also like to mention that I did not mention grounding wires. One should run a ground from the wall socket to the box, ballast and the light fixture mount.


I wanted to add more light to my 210g. The tank was originally supplied by 640 watts of diy vho.
The first thing I did was build a light bar. This was to hold both the metal halide and vho bulbs. It was built from two pieces of 1x3 inch pine. One was placed on edge in the middle of the other and then clamped. I then used drywall screws to attach the two. Now I had a beam. I then placed a couple of 3/4x2 inch rails on the ends of the rail, these are used as both slides for the light bar and mount for the vho's. The bar is built to slide back and forward in my canopy. I then took 1 inch tall blocks and attached them to the rail; these are the mounts for the vho sockets. The three 400watt MH reflectors where mounted to the underside of the beam. I made brackets for the moguls from aluminum 1.5X1.5 angle; it was as simple as drilling holes for the mogul screws and wire. Each of the angles where installed with #8 rod nuts, found at Home Depot in the fastener isle, used as 3/4 inch stand offs. The stand offs are located between the reflector and angle bracket. There are two wires on each mogul socket; each is attached to a seperate common extension cord, the cheap $1.99 from Wal-Mart. I cut the socket end off and soldered the exposed wire; I used wire nuts to attach the mogul wire to the extension cord. To fasten the cords to the beam I used a common staple gun. Each of the cords will attach to another cord coming from the ballast. Keep each of the wires in pole make sure that the white wires go to the common side of the extension cord and the black wire goes to the hot side of the extension cord.
Here is the only pic of the light bar.
19974DSCF0010-med.JPG


The ballast and moguls came from 1000bulbs.com.
Here are the links,
MH400/MT - 400 Watt - Multi-Tap - Metal Halide - ISB - Sola Basic E-871-W-411 Light Bulb The ballast
Mogul Base HID Socket Light Bulb The mogul socket

The ballasts are not difficult at all. I will give detail on how to wire them, and then show a pic of my installation.
The ballast must be mounted with the capacitors in a box. Metal is the preferred material, these things get hot. I would also suggest a small fan. cut a hole on both sides of the box, one for vent and the other for the fan. Boxes can be found at Home Depot or for a better selection go to an electrical supply house and ask the guys for a J-Box. One can be had for under $15.00. I mounted the ballast with #8 rod nuts, stand offs, under the ballast and a 3 inch sheet metal screws and nuts. The capacitors come with a band to mount them; I mounted them to one of the screws that hold the ballast to the box. The wiring can be daunting to some, but it is very easy. On the ballast you will find two "com" wires and other wires listed "120V" "208V" "240V" and "277V". You will also find that the capacitor is prewired to the ballast, one wire is coming from the capacitor meant for the mogul. Take another extension cord and cut in half and strip the ends. The end with the plug, connect the "120V" wire to one side and one of the "com" wires to the other. I would recommend that you connect them hot and common side of the cord, just to keep things poled. This cord will go to a 120v wall socket. Back to the light bar, the wires that were black and white, the black wire connects to the wire on the capacitor and the white wire connects to the other "com" wire. Use the other end of the extension cord for this. Now plug the cords from the ballast to the light then plug in the other cord to the wall socket.
You now have a cheap diy 400watt MH.

My setup uses relays to dedicated 15 amp circuits. The ballasts are located on the other side of the wall in my garage. I also mounted my vho ballasts in the garage. The fan in the box is also wired to one of the ballast relays. The canopy fans are wired to the relays that turn on my vho's. The vho's and MH's are wired to timers and switches.
Here are the pics.
The ballast.
DSCF00031.JPG

I used an old service shut off box. It had a knife switch in it. I gutted the box and painted it, then mounted the ballast. The little black thing on the lower right is a 3 inch 120v fan, another 3 inch hole is cut in the top, above the top ballast. Both fan and hole have finger guards.
DSCF00071.JPG

This little grey box is the point that the MH, VHO and canopy fans, wires plug into.
DSCF00082.JPG

Here is a pic of the light in action.
DSCF00051.JPG
 
Looks like a nice setup! Too bad you couldn't mount the MH reflectors the other way (perpendicular to the tank), but I'm sure you are still getting great light and coverage. Thanks for sharing :)
 
I am courious, why would I want to mount the lights perpendicular to the tank?
 
Technically that's the way you want them mounted. Look at the way your reflector is shaped/designed. The light will be reflected to the front and back of the tank mostly because of the way it is arched and not as much really reflected across the tank. With the reflector set up perpendicular, the light will be reflected on either side which means the light will spread out across the tank giving you full/better coverage. I'll sketch something real quick to show you what I mean :)
 
Here's a quick sketch showing what I mean. Hope it makes sense :)


Attachment 1 shows the way you have your reflectors mounted and the arrows show the way light is reflected

Attachment 2 shows the reflectors perpendicular which means the light from each reflector will overlap giving you full coverage across the tank

Attachment 3 and 4 shows the reflectors you have mounted in a canopy perpendicular.

Not sure to what degree you will notice a difference with them mounted either way, but I've always been taught that perpendicular is the right way to go about it. :)
 
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No need, I get it.


You must have been typing while I was sketching :D In any event, I think the setup varies with reflector style so I wouldn't worry so much. Once your corals are happy and growing and you don't notice any dark spots then in my opinion your good and I wouldn't even change it :) I only thought I'd throw out the suggestion/obervation because I mounted my reflectors like you did before, and I was told to change them around :)
 
I agree with Krish, more so because of the reflector design, you will loose a good percentage of usable light like they are mounted now. I have a study on them in advanced reefkeeping somewhere If I can find it I'll post the link.
 
Just when you think you finish with a project you find that it can be done better. I found out that my ballasts could be ran on 240v. This is what I originally wanted to do, the MH ballasts have several wires that allow you to run at different voltages. My ballast have wires (taps, like a beer tap) labeled 120v, 208v, 240v and 270v. When I got the ballast I could not understand how to wire a 240v circuit with one wire, there was not another wire to support another leg, this is 120v from the other buss in the control panel. After talking to a electrician friend, we both agreed that the ballasts schematic would not support the other leg, but he did hear from one of the electrical suppliers in town that the ballasts could be run 240v and the other leg would be connected to one of the two common wires on the ballast. I did not like how this sounded hooking a live wire to a common causes big sparks and possibly a boom.

As curious as I am I kept coming across this, hooking a live wire to one of the common wires. So today I brought home my good multimeter with a 20 amp fuse in it and wired my system for 240v, but left one of the legs off of the ballast. I very quickly passed my test leads over the wires and never saw any thing over 1.4 amps. Then I held the leads and the ballast started to fire the bulbs. Cool it works.

The ballast are now running quieter, less hum and seem to be cooler. The 240v fan that I bought is put to good use; it also is moving more air than the 120v fan and is quieter. The relays do not work as hard, so I should have longer life from them.
 
I have not shown the tank or how it has looked now that the lights have burned in. At first my XM 400 watt 10k's looked yellow. They would overpower my 640 watt vho actinic's and still make the tank look yellow. After about a month the tank looks like I expected a crisp white.
DSCF00111.JPG

DSCF00121.JPG
 
nice tank sure wish would have read this before spending $ on my lights your links could have saved me lots thanks for info my next setup will be much cheaper
 
Did you ever change the mounting of the reflectors ? If not you are losing alot of light outside the tank.... Other than that it looks nice....
 
I spent $300.00 on the MH and $350.00 on the VHO. This includes bulbs, reflectors, hardware, ballast and wire. The MH ballast box was given to me.
The reflectors are in the same position they where when assembled.
 

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