BobinCovington
Well-known member
Just thought I would throw this thread out there. I am about to wire in my electrical panel and wanted to hear suggestions or comments before I install it.
At my company we sometimes get forensic investigators who come in and want us to x-ray evidence...and several times I have seen those cheap outlet strips, coffee makers, or other poorly wired items come in all melted that caused a fire. So I am overly concerned about having a safe and reliable electrical system.
My display tank is in the living room with a reefkeeper 2 controller running lights and powerheads, PH probe, temp probe and fan. So it is on a circuit that also runs the outlets in the living room.
In the garage I am lucky enough to have a dedicated circuit that was intended to run a freezer. I have run this to my sump and will wire it direct to the left panel that is the main AC panel (with a line voltage meter and 3- 15 amp circuits for the AC panel, 12 volt and the bench outlets and lights). These marine grade sub panels will run everything in the sump and the water mixing pumps and heaters. I plan to install a GFCI in the breaker panel so everything on this circuit is protected.
The pictures show the main assembly of panels that will mount to the center section of my sump workbench in the garage. This main panel will be on it's own dedicated circuit of my home breaker panel. The 8 circuit AC sub panel on the right has the following breakers (8 amp or 15 amp each as needed to protect each component). Each has a custom label. The other thin panel mounts to the side and has 8 receptacles (1 for each circuit).
Main Pump
Skimmer
Heater Controller
Dosing pump (profilux)
Auto top off (osmolator)
Saltwater Mixing (powerhead and heater)
Water Change Add and Drain (this breaker arms a small sub panel with two on-off switches for water changes - 1 switch pumps water out of the sump to the drain and the other adds new salt water to the sump from the saltwater mixing reservoir)
aux (goes to a higher quality outlet strip for any other items)
The smaller square unit on the left bottom of the panel is a heater controller which displays the set value and the process (actual) temp. Also has alarms and lets me know if the heater burns out. I think it will be much more reliable than a typical digital display heater. As a backup I have the reefkeeper temp display
The rocker switch on the bottom right is to control a bilge pump in the secondary containment under the sump grating. Any spills or water from rinsing equipment off are quickly pumped out to drain.
When I install the osmolator ATO display/controller, it will mount to the open area on the bottom of the panel.
This way the living room just has the aquarium running with the reefkeeper for lights and powerheads and no noise. All the real life support is in the garage. (plus I get to have all kinds of cool switches and lights to look at)
At my company we sometimes get forensic investigators who come in and want us to x-ray evidence...and several times I have seen those cheap outlet strips, coffee makers, or other poorly wired items come in all melted that caused a fire. So I am overly concerned about having a safe and reliable electrical system.
My display tank is in the living room with a reefkeeper 2 controller running lights and powerheads, PH probe, temp probe and fan. So it is on a circuit that also runs the outlets in the living room.
In the garage I am lucky enough to have a dedicated circuit that was intended to run a freezer. I have run this to my sump and will wire it direct to the left panel that is the main AC panel (with a line voltage meter and 3- 15 amp circuits for the AC panel, 12 volt and the bench outlets and lights). These marine grade sub panels will run everything in the sump and the water mixing pumps and heaters. I plan to install a GFCI in the breaker panel so everything on this circuit is protected.
The pictures show the main assembly of panels that will mount to the center section of my sump workbench in the garage. This main panel will be on it's own dedicated circuit of my home breaker panel. The 8 circuit AC sub panel on the right has the following breakers (8 amp or 15 amp each as needed to protect each component). Each has a custom label. The other thin panel mounts to the side and has 8 receptacles (1 for each circuit).
Main Pump
Skimmer
Heater Controller
Dosing pump (profilux)
Auto top off (osmolator)
Saltwater Mixing (powerhead and heater)
Water Change Add and Drain (this breaker arms a small sub panel with two on-off switches for water changes - 1 switch pumps water out of the sump to the drain and the other adds new salt water to the sump from the saltwater mixing reservoir)
aux (goes to a higher quality outlet strip for any other items)
The smaller square unit on the left bottom of the panel is a heater controller which displays the set value and the process (actual) temp. Also has alarms and lets me know if the heater burns out. I think it will be much more reliable than a typical digital display heater. As a backup I have the reefkeeper temp display
The rocker switch on the bottom right is to control a bilge pump in the secondary containment under the sump grating. Any spills or water from rinsing equipment off are quickly pumped out to drain.
When I install the osmolator ATO display/controller, it will mount to the open area on the bottom of the panel.
This way the living room just has the aquarium running with the reefkeeper for lights and powerheads and no noise. All the real life support is in the garage. (plus I get to have all kinds of cool switches and lights to look at)
