Has anyone used Algone in a SPS tank?

[arc]

I just heard of this product the it called Algone, and was wondering if any of the experienced aquarists out here have ever tried it especially in a SPS system.

I got this piece of tonga branch rock a while back and it got a pretty good case of hair algae on it (the only piece in the tank that did). I have since removed the branch rock, but the hair algae has moved to one of my LPS's (a brain coral). I have tried every critter I can think of to eat this stuff, and of course, nothing will touch it. I stumbled upon this stuff through my local reefkeeping site and need to find anyone who has used it in a tank with SPS's as I am very leary about adding anything to my tank without research first. In know of someone who has used it in a softy tank with no ill effects, but don't want to risk the health of my SPS's.

 

[Krish]

Welcome to RF Arc! I've seen Algone before and have read about it, but never tried it nor has anyone I know. Have you checked your water's parameters lately to see what is fueling the hair algae? Or maybe a bulb that is overdue to be changed? Also, are you using ro/di water and how long has the tank been setup? Sorry for so many question, but I am a firm believer of not adding chemicals etc. in a tank if it isn't totally necessary. I fought with hair algae for a long time and had to start completely over because I did everything wrong the first time. Hair algae is definately something that you can get rid of over time, and by doing it naturally is always IMO, the best way as you don't have to worry about adding some medication etc that can cause some other problem to arise. If you gave us all a little more info on your setup etc. then I'm sure you will get the help you need here to help you get rid of the hair. Good luck and glad you have decided to join RF!

 

[Pauls]

Arc, welcome to RF. Glad to have you along. I am in the same boat as krish and have no experience with algone. Natural is the only way to go imo. However sometimes one finds the need to help nature along a little. Im sure someone here at RF has tried Algone and should be able to give you a better idea with sps. Till then check and report water parameters. good luck.

 

[arc]

My parameters are all quite good. I do very regular water changes. The only thing I can think of right off the top of my head, is the lighting. Our bulbs are not old, but just the opposite, they're brand new. We just went from a 250W MH setup to a 400W MH setup. I really don't want to lower the photoperiod, because I've had such a great response from all the corals in the tank, but perhaps that is the only real solution to the problem. I agree that natural is always the best way, but like krish said...sometimes we have to help nature along a bit. Any other suggestions? Please feel free to comment.

 

[Krish]

I've heard that new lights do cause a bit of a problem when first added. I remeber when I added 260 watt pc on my last setup going from 80 watt 50/50's, and honestly the next day, algae took off and I was never able to control it. However, it's not just because of the lights. I did everything else in the book wrong and I guess the proper lighting and the new spectrum was all my tank needed to go way wire. I honestly think it may be a safe to say that the new lighting may be a major factor on your current problem, but I'd wait and get a little more advice from the others as I could be wrong about it...Still learning I'm afraid(LOL)

 

[arc]

Thanks for the response. Hopefully I will get this under control soon.

 

[florence]

I know a Gal that I like that owns a small fish and pet store. She has nice displays and doesn't run as many fish through her tanks. She uses algone in freshwater tanks and saltwater tanks with corals. The name of her shop is Animal House she is in Anchorage, Alaska. I've seen algone clipped in the tanks. I used to use it in my freshwater when I had a freshwater tank. It works great for freshwater!
My son and I have a 55 gallon saltwater reef. We've had it for about a year and a half. We have a collection of books. We've been to Saltwater city in Bellevue. We had 2 SPS corals and 1 soft coral but a friend had a accident last weekend so we have several more frags. We're still learning.
If you want to know about algone I'd call Animal House in Anchorage, Alaska. I've found her phone number on the net before.
Florence

 

[Barbie]

The lady in Anchorage's name is Linda. If anyone does call her, tell her I said Hi . She'll remember me. I helped her set up the corner display and talked her into carrying corals and reef stuff a few years back . She's a great lady.

Barbie

 

[Ed Hahn]

My parameters are all quite good. I do very regular water changes. The only thing I can think of right off the top of my head, is the lighting. Our bulbs are not old, but just the opposite, they're brand new. We just went from a 250W MH setup to a 400W MH setup. I really don't want to lower the photoperiod, because I've had such a great response from all the corals in the tank, but perhaps that is the only real solution to the problem. I agree that natural is always the best way, but like krish said...sometimes we have to help nature along a bit. Any other suggestions? Please feel free to comment.

Sometimes and usually, there is a die off from going to different lighting. Your coraline algae dies in areas and then regrows later. This could be part of your problem. I did not see anything about using RO/DI water, maybe I missed it.
Your Foods or Additives could be a source for your algae.
Some people that I have talked to in here will use screens to shield thier lighting in a break in period.
Some will raise their lighting up much higher and gradually work it lower when increasing bulb output. That can be switching from a 20k to 10K or 250 watt bulb to 400 watt bulb, etc.
If you can slow the process of adding phosphates (one source of food for algae), there is a good chance your algae will demise.
Stay on top of your skimmer, do larger portion water changes with properly airated saltwater (mixed well), temperature and salinity same as tank you are adding into. If possible add your water to your sump slowly, often a large surge of water can irritate your corals. I had to learn and I am still learning most foods contain perservatives that contain phosphates. Do not overfeed, and try to rinse your live foods with RO/DI water before adding. I have watched people using cylinders to feed their fish. They add a tube to their tank that helps food get to bottom of the tank. Your fish will learn to go to Tube after a while and they wait. You can also hand feed, my favorite. If you have surface water skimming fast and effiently, Your food is often pulled into your overflow. I feel this is a place that is often overlooked and people get build up. Tubes or feeding with your fish net can prevent your fish food from going into your overflow and building up in another area.
I hope a few of these things help ya,
good luck,
Ed

 

[cwrenge]

Sometimes and usually, there is a die off from going to different lighting. Your coraline algae dies in areas and then regrows later. This could be part of your problem. I did not see anything about using RO/DI water, maybe I missed it.
Your Foods or Additives could be a source for your algae.
Some people that I have talked to in here will use screens to shield thier lighting in a break in period.
Some will raise their lighting up much higher and gradually work it lower when increasing bulb output. That can be switching from a 20k to 10K or 250 watt bulb to 400 watt bulb, etc.
If you can slow the process of adding phosphates (one source of food for algae), there is a good chance your algae will demise.
Stay on top of your skimmer, do larger portion water changes with properly airated saltwater (mixed well), temperature and salinity same as tank you are adding into. If possible add your water to your sump slowly, often a large surge of water can irritate your corals. I had to learn and I am still learning most foods contain perservatives that contain phosphates. Do not overfeed, and try to rinse your live foods with RO/DI water before adding. I have watched people using cylinders to feed their fish. They add a tube to their tank that helps food get to bottom of the tank. Your fish will learn to go to Tube after a while and they wait. You can also hand feed, my favorite. If you have surface water skimming fast and effiently, Your food is often pulled into your overflow. I feel this is a place that is often overlooked and people get build up. Tubes or feeding with your fish net can prevent your fish food from going into your overflow and building up in another area.
I hope a few of these things help ya,
good luck,
Ed

Great info Ed...! i went thru asimmilar exp with my 55 reef..... had a fef corals allso , so i was hesitant too....... however ( i myself shy away from Chems... ) itried algone as directed as a last measure n i was pulling my hair so to speak. It did its job , so for my situation , i could honestly say it worked for me.......... hope this helps ya, keep us posted , and again ....Ed thanks.... cw.

 

[florence]

I talked to Linda at Animal House. She said Hi to Barbie! Also Re: question about using algone with hard corals. Linda says she uses it all the time...works great. I picked up some hasn't hurt my corals yet. I'm just getting into corals. I have a couple nice soft corals and a pretty horn coral and some smaller frags that are doing ok so far.
Florence