how much equipment is too much?

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new2saltwater

Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2010
Messages
21
Location
Oregon
Hello,
I am getting ready to set up my first 100 gallon reef tank, starting slow and still collecting the neccessary items. but my head is swimming with all the equipment made mention of on this site and others. Calcium reactors, Phosban reactors, ro and di filters, uv sterilizers, quaranteen tanks. How much of this stuff is neccessary? Is some stuff just going overboard? I already have a tank, lights, 29 gallon sump, and protein skimmer. Can someone please give me newbie advice as to what i really need.
 
In my opinion, an RO/DI unit is a MUST.

Calcium Reactors are optional, and a lot of times, not needed at all. If you get a large population of stony corals, and don't want to manually dose for Alk and Calcium, a Calcium Reactor is nice.

Phosban Reactors, again, purely optional. I believe more hobbyists do NOT use them, than do.

UV Sterilizer, again, optional and you need to be aware of their pros and cons.

QT Tank, a lot of people will tell you they're a MUST HAVE, including myself. A lot of those same people, don't have one, including myself...lol.
 
+1 to Sid's comments.
Do get an RO/DI! (thefiltersguys.com or Melevsreef.com)
I got a cheap 29 gal for my QT and use a sponge filter that I ran in my sump for two weeks (cheaper!)
If you plan out your system with the basics and get it running, you will see what you need to aquire in order to acomplish your next goal.
In my case (also a newbie) I had a bit of hair algae starting, so I decided to try a phos reactor. Not required by any means, but it was a logical purchase to help with phosphates.
The only thing that I completly missed when I first started was the need to dose the system. I was under the impression that if I did regular water changes and had a light bio-load dosing could come later... Not so much. Coraline took off and drove my calcium down faster than water changes could supply. So I would look into kalkwasser (many inexpensive ways to do that) or a two part. I use bulkreef supplies 2 part with mag.
Not on your list of stuff is a return pump ~4x to 5x the system volume, and something to move water around your tank ie. powerheads or a closed loop system.
Is there other hardware you were wondering about?
 
.

QT Tank, a lot of people will tell you they're a MUST HAVE, including myself. A lot of those same people, don't have one, including myself...lol.

:lol::lol::lol:

All depends on what kind of corals you are keeping.
My system is simple but yet a pain trying to remember to dose.
Finally got another skimmer after almost a year not having one hook up.
 
Also make sure you have enough circulation in the display I'd say 30x+ the displays volume. Also make sure all the circulation pumps are aimed in such a manner as to make sure you have very few dead spots.

List of priority:

RO/DI
Skimmer (don't skimp)
Good Lighting (don't skimp)
Good Heater(s)
Plenty of Circulation
Adequate return pump

Once all that is in-line figure out what you really want to keep, most likely you will start out with soft corals since you are new and slowly navigate to LPS and stony corals, then you can truly start to worry about calcium and it's implementation method.
 
BTW, welcome to Reef Frontiers. You have a good start, doing research and asking questions. :)
 
Welcome and ditto on what has been already mentioned.

Skimmer is a must along with good quality lighting.
 
Welcome to RF! You will definitely need A LOT of PATIENCE. Not really a piece of equipment, but without this, all the equipment in the world will be useless. Watch out for the bug. Make sure your tank is fully cycled first before adding fishies and corals. Based on this post, you're off to a good start. Good luck!
 
RO/DI... depends on how large your system is. If you have a nano it'll be cheaper to buy water, if you have a 100+ gallon tank you might as well buy an RO/DI machine. I started out buying RO water for my 10 gallon tank and bought a Vertex RO/DI machine when I set up my 150 gallon. Somewhere in between I would use tap water and the Aquavitro alpha and didn't have any excess algae growth, that was in Issaquah. But here in Pullman I did the same thing and I think the silicate levels were higher or something, algae seemed to grow, then again it wasn't established like my setup at home. Still I think using RO will save you a lot of headache/second guessing.

Protein Skimmer, I've run some tanks in the past for a few months without one and didn't have much of a problem but they were fish only at the time. I would highly recommend getting a good one.

UV sterilizer, I've never had one. did a little research but I don't know. Some people seem to swear by them but I've been happy with my tank and it's a couple years old now.

Calcium reactor you won't need to consider until you are packed with hard corals, even then there are other options like a two part system. Just depends on your maintenance goals and budget.

Phosban reactor, I have one on my 150g reef and on my dads 255g fowlr. I like them.

Quarantine Tank, I actually haven't really used one in the past but am beginning to because I don't want to risk my tank and it's at the point where anything that goes into the tank is very difficult to remove because of the rock work and corals. I have a compartment in my sump that I typically use for acclimation or separating fish/corals if I need to (my open brain is in there now because my bi-color angel started nipping it). It doesn't protect against introducing bad things into the tank but it gives me a healthy and consistent area to temporarily hold fish. I have a juvenile emperor angel coming and I plan on acclimating it in the sump, then putting some corals in there temporarily so I can try to get an idea if he'll nip. I know he'll act differently in a new environment but I'm hoping I can get an idea for if he will be a problem. It's nice because I can add fish/corals to the display tank and not have to worry them being stressed because of water parameter changes. Also I think it will come in handy when I want to add another tang to the tank. The main reason I haven't run a separate QT in the past was lack of space.

I associate a lot of the costs with this hobby to the whole time is money idea. IA reef controller isn't necessary but it sure makes things easier. An auto top off isn't necessary but then I can fill up a bucket once a week or two instead of everyday. etc.

Filtration wise I've had great success with using a protein skimmer, refugium and phosban reactor along with carbon (on and off), also an appropriate amount of live rock and don't stock the tank too quickly.
 
Hello,
I am getting ready to set up my first 100 gallon reef tank, starting slow and still collecting the neccessary items. but my head is swimming with all the equipment made mention of on this site and others. Calcium reactors, Phosban reactors, ro and di filters, uv sterilizers, quaranteen tanks. How much of this stuff is neccessary? Is some stuff just going overboard? I already have a tank, lights, 29 gallon sump, and protein skimmer. Can someone please give me newbie advice as to what i really need.


+1 on definately needing an RO/DI

and I would say that a media reactor is a must for carbon and phosphate remover. the carbon should be changed out at least once a week.

next would be flow in the display tank...
stick with low watt/large outlet tunze/vortec style powerheads and avoid closed loops,
they suck up too many watts and the nozzel outlets are completely unnatural.
further more, I pity any reefer who puts holes and bulkheads in the bottom of the tank.
I'd say for a 100g mixed tank you should look at least 50x which would be 5000gph total between all your powerheads. more would be appropriate if you were going to do SPS.

make sure you have at least 100g of live rock, and if your going to do sand, keep it at less than 2".

for elemental additives use the highest quality that you can get, IE: pharmaceutical and analytical reagent grade chemicals like are found in Warner Marine and Elos products. DO NOT use kent or other low(food or industrial) grade chemicals.
a calcium reactor is great for the alk and calcium, but wont address other elements, IE; mag, iodine, trace elements, etc.. a simple 2 part dosing product like cal-max from WM might be a good way to go until you get a tank full of corals, then you might look into a CArx. also, I think dosing with a high quality amino acids product is very beneficial, elos and WM both make good aminos.

IMO, corals and fish care more about water purity, appropriate flow, elemental balance and being fed more than lighting. So basically, make sure you use that ro/di water, have a powerful enough skimmer, run carbon in a media reactor (and maybe GFO as well), have enough flow that your detritus stays in suspension in the water column and doesnt build up in the display, feed your fish and corals high quality frozen foods (and dont be afraid to use vitamins and amino acids).
for 100g you should have a skimmer that injects at least 600lph of air. if your skimmer is not powerful enough, then replace it with one that is.

now for lights you can have anything from pc's, vho, or t5 all the way up to M.H. or LED's, it just depends upon the corals you wish to keep, and what you like to look at.
 
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wow,
thx for all the good info people. Im looking at different ro/di systems and not sure on the difference other than output per day. I am thinking of a melevs reef 100gpd, any comments on this unit? I am a little confused by in tank water movement. 50x total water? How many power heads should i use to achieve that?
 
Melevs would be a great choice, as would The Filter Guys! Something in the 75-100gpd would be a good choice as well.

As for flow, 50X may be a lil' overkill...lol. The minimum recommendation is 10X. For instance, if you have a 100 gallon tank, you should have a minimum of 1000 gph of flow. IMO, the minimum should be closer to 20X turn over rating. If you plan to go with SPS, the more flow the better. However, it's also very important, maybe even more important than the amount of flow, to have random, turbulent flow. Aiming power heads in ways that the flow bounces off of live rock, glass, collides with flow from other power heads, etc. will help generate lots of random flow.

The number of power heads will depend on the gph of each power head. If financially able, Tunze or Vortex are amazing, although very expensive.

Other options are Hydor Koralia or Maxi Jet 1200s with the Shure Flow Mod Kit and Shure Grip Magnet mounts.
 
In deciding your RO/DI unit, view the output capacity not as how much water you'll be making total but how fast the unit can make water. Let's say you'll be doing 20g water changes every so often, the faster the unit, the less you'll have to wait.
 
Hello,
I am getting ready to set up my first 100 gallon reef tank, starting slow and still collecting the neccessary items. but my head is swimming with all the equipment made mention of on this site and others. Calcium reactors, Phosban reactors, ro and di filters, uv sterilizers, quaranteen tanks. How much of this stuff is neccessary? Is some stuff just going overboard? I already have a tank, lights, 29 gallon sump, and protein skimmer. Can someone please give me newbie advice as to what i really need.

ro di unit a must have
 
i think u can get away with a heater, skimmer, sump, lighting system, return pump, testing packages, salt, and food.
 
im a firm believer that simpler is better, someone else on this fourum introduced me to keep it simple stupid and it seems to work for me
 

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