Ich?

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capdippe

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 8, 2010
Messages
369
Location
Kent WA
My new blue tang had white marks on his body, (they looked like chalk markings), those went away; all but one. Now he has small specks over most of his body like tinny salt granules. I'm pretty sure it's ich, the other fish are now flashing on the montiporah and sand (sp? my spelling sucks). The red headed fairy wrasse has the same specs on his fins and empennage. My question is now that there are two clowns, yellow tang, fire goby, blue tang, and a fairy wrasse what do I do to resolve this issue. From what I've read copper is out of the questions as I have 26 corals in there.
 
No I didn't, I bought the tank 5-6 months ago already established. The only fish I added was the blue tang and unfortunately I didn't QT him, (lesson learned!). I don't have another tank set up. How's the best way to take care of this?
 
I've had an ich break out in my mixed reef and did not use any med's. I have a cleaner shrimp and had my salinity at 1.021-.022. I didn't know any better but by having my salinity lower it might have help rid the ich. a couple weeks after the ich cleared off of my sailfin and six line wrasse. I added a copperband butterfly. the copperband showed signs of ich I think from the stress of the move but now it's clearing up on its own. salinity at 1.023. I have not lost any fish.. knock on wood..... Good luck to you.
 
My water is as follows:
ALK 8.0
Gravity 1.024
Nitrates 0
Pholsphates 0
Cal 420
Mag 1200
PH 8.3
Temp W/whiller 77F
 
Is it true that Ich has a 60 day cycle? From a buddy in CA, I need to remove all fish and make a pvc playground and keep them in the other tank for 60 days while treating with copper.
 
this might help:

http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?h=ichwhitespotdisease

you can speed up the lifecycle by increasing the tank temp to 84-86 for several days..however you MUST remove all fish and corals...i wouldnt treat the main tank with copper as it will bind to the LR and leech out over time...you will NOT be able to keep ANY inverts/shrimps, corals,etc..as the copper will kill them.

instead, read about hyposalinity
for a QT, absolutely treat with copper but read the instructions and follow closely.
 
Thank you, wow this seems like a lot of work. I assume this doesn't clear up on it's own does it?
 
NC2WA thanks for the web pages I've read them both. If I set up a hospital tank in the garage, What size tank should I go and by from pet smart ect. What kind of filter system do I need to get by for the cycle of Ich? This was the last thing I wanted to by, but looks like it can't wait. I also have a problem with the blue tang getting along with the yellow tang, is it worth buying two tanks, pr just finding a partition for the one.
 
as long as there are fish in the tank, they will act as a host for the parasite, so no.

In my 37g qt, i have a sponge filter (that has been sitting in my DT for months), powerheads, heater..

I would put the tangs in separate tanks...depending on big they are you might need a 20g for each..One of Lee's sticky has a measurement guide of qt tanks.

I just sold my last 20L or otherwise I would offer it to you...

unfortunately, you have some work ahead of you, and it will not go away as quickly as you want it to...(sorry for the bad news), but if it is in the early stage (which if you are just noticing it, it sounds like it is) this is easily cured (the good news).

:)
 
If I go get two QT tanks (20g), two heaters, two power heads. What kind of filtration do I need? I wasn't prepared for this, what will act as a bio filter? I also read that I need to keep the tanks temp hight 80-84f. Would you recomend this kind of setup.
 
I had ich on my foxface for a few weeks. I tried rid-ich, which said it was coral safe. No it wasn't because my shrooms and leather started shrinking, and i thought everything was going to die. I stopped dosing after 1 dose and everything turned out ok. The foxface no longer has ich after waiting a few weeks, it just kinda went away on its own after doing frequent 15 gallon water changes every week on my 45G.

Good luck!
 
If I go get two QT tanks (20g), two heaters, two power heads. What kind of filtration do I need? I wasn't prepared for this, what will act as a bio filter? I also read that I need to keep the tanks temp hight 80-84f. Would you recomend this kind of setup.

I don't think you need the powerheads. raising the temp will not help with the Ick. get a couple of cheap sponge filters that stick to the inside of the tank and you hook an air pump to.
 
IMHO -- you do not have another tank setup --- not good --- siphon the bottom substrate of the old tank and dump this into a new fish home --- a tank would be nice --- use a working biological filter from the old main tank if you can also --- set hyposalinity to ~1.015.

If this is ICk --- it sounds like it --- all the stuff you put in the new tank is full of Cysts --- they will die off quick --- now put the fish in and monitor Ammonia, and Nitrite --- and hope the nitrogen cycle is working. If the Nitrogen cycle is working --- great --- wait a week and clean the tank. After this initial time, you can now clean the new fish home when you want to.

Make them a nice home as they will be in there 6-8 weeks.

http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/hyposalinity/Hyposalinity_OST_Osmotic_Shock_Therapy.htm

OFM
 
raising the temp will not help with the Ick

True statement, but it will speed up the lifecycle

I have sponge filters in my sump so they already contain enough biological bacteria for a QT..once you have the ich in your main tank under control, place an extra sponge filter in your sump for the next time you need them.
 
Thank you all for the info. I'm gonna get another tank, and set it up Wednesday. Funny thing I came home after work today and the fish had 50% less spots on them then they did yesterday, so I'm assuming I cought it early. The Blue tang that had the most spots now just looks like small ash smears on his skin and there are fewer of them. I'll keep you posted, thanks.
 

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