Integrity of old acrylic 300 gal tank

Reef Aquarium & Tank Building Forum

Help Support Reef Aquarium & Tank Building Forum:

bbehring

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2006
Messages
160
Location
Hemet, California
I have a buddy that has a 14 year old 300 gal acrylic tank (72"lx38"hx24"w exclusive of side overflows) and 45 gal sump. We are going to start re-vamping the equipment (pumps, sump and lighting primarily) and were wondering how long the acrylic glue, bulkheads etc would last. My thoughts are while we are completely changing out the plumbing/pumps, we should replace the bulkheads on the tank and possibly look at a new acrylic sump?

Also the original 3 pumps which are all little Giant 4-MDQ-SC will need to be replaced. All are plumbed outside the sump, under the tank, within the stand, with bulkheads through the base front side of the sump. Although these pumps have stood the test of time (14 years) I'm guessing that there are better external pumps on the market now that are more efficient and throw less heat? He would like to plumb same flow pumps and not change out the overall design (1 - supply from the sump to the chiller and returned to the tank; 1 - supply from the sump to the tank (recirc flow only; and 1 - supply from sump through ocean clear filter and back to tank). I agree that this is not the best flow design and if it were me I'd re-plumb very differently, but the tank is built in to the wall with view from both sides (wall on end) and the overflow area at each side is very restrictive for arm reach. Which brings me to another delima, I need to replace the original, 14 year old plumbing retruns with in the overflows as they were plumbed with vinyl tubing and plastic clamps which have degrgated and split 2 of the return line sets. I don't think I can get my arms into these tight overflows. Any ideas in changing out the plumbing in these areas? I'm guessing the plumbing was installed after the tank was glued together.

Also while the tank is drained we are planning to buff out the scratches (which are numerous) Which scratch removal kit or process is the best and easiest to work with that can take out both deep scratches and feather scratches? All scratches are on the inside view panels.


__________________
 
bump anyone?
Sheesh, Its been a busy afternoon and a busier night. Ive had to deal with two flooding basements today in Seattle. I dont know what everyone else is doing. Have some patience my man and we'll gladly give you our opinions like them or not. I post in the morning.:razz:
 
To be honest it would scare the crap out of me :D Changing out the bulkheas is not required for the plastic portions , just change the gaskets. On the scratches its best just go to sand paper first and then work your way into the creams. You can get the same sand paper from good automotive paint stores.


Mike
 
AFAIK acrylic joints dont wear out. Check them to see if they look clear still like a new joint. If they are starting to turn milky or look stressed on the edges youd better look for something new. Acrylic itself will yellow and potentially get brittle over time if subject to intense UV. A 14 year old tank sound like something that has lived its full life but that my opinion.
Regarding the pumps. Iwaki, panworld,and sequence pumps (IMO) are good for your external applications.
The bulkheads dont necessarily need replacing but at $5 each it might be easier to buy them whole rather than finding a gasket that will properly fit a 14 year old one.
Without a pic all I can say is good luck on getting into the overflows to remove the old stuff. Im sure once you get started you figure something out.
 
thanks for the insight. My apologies for my impatients. I'm still waffling on weather I want to get involved with this mod. I don't think I can get my arms down into the overflows to make the neede repairs to the lower return bulk heads? They may have to be abandoned? The way this tank is plumbed scares me to death. There are 4 lower returs (2 on each side from with in the overflow) which are supplied not as a CL but from the sump. The lines have BFPs to stop the back siphoning when power is cut. With the return lines busted down deep inside the overflows (about 12" from the bottom), the return flow is simply dumping inside the overflow box and not the sump. I have plugged the bulkheads for now as during the last power outage, the tank emptied to with in 12" of the bottom. Not a great day for my friend. He's still in recovery over that one.

I think I'll try and talk my buddy into panworld pumps. I have one on my tank and am pretty happy with it.

I'll tyr and help as much as I can, but am not too thrilled about this one!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top