Kalk Question

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pepperjack

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:?:I've been using kalk to help keep PH higher but since i upgraded to bubble master 250 and drawing air from outside house my PH has been around 8.3. (My house has CO2 problems due to natral gas appliances).I'm slowly doing away with kalk and PH still remains 8.3. I am still using 2-part. Will I have problems keeping calcium levels high by using 2-part only ? I realize i may need to "up" the dose a little. Really looking forward to not messing with kalk again.
 
No, just add more of only the 2-part calcium part if needed, as you already seem to know. If you want to save on the 2-part them get some Kent Turbo Calcium or buy some bulk Calcium Chloride. That way you can sup the 2-part in equal amounts and if the Ca++ is still low use the Kent to bring it up the rest of the way.
 
Hello;

PH at 8.3 -- WONDERFUL. Never chase PH or try to correct it with buffers.

It is a rare tank that can keep Calcium, Alkalinity, and PH high for long periods of time with Kalkwasser alone. If you test in the morning and Alk is constantly low add some baking soda to raise it a little. This may sound weird, but, things get out of wack --- sometimes buffer is needed --- and due to high PH problems or not enough evaporation, Calcium suppliment by itself is needed.

There are ways around this --- mix your Kalk with some vinegar --- try 2-teaspoons of Kalk and 30-ml of white vinegar 5% solution to start with. I use a stronger solution but, the ALK remains high through the night and caution is advised.

Kalkwasser is the best at maintenance of CA and ALK and PH. Your tank changes as the lights age, lights get replaced, water temp changes, load increases, etc,. Slight adjustments to your Kalk dosage must be made also.

You can make a ballpark calculation: 1-dkh of ALk used in the tank = about 20-ppm Calcium consumed. So, You can feed Kalk to your tank as long as PH does not go above 8.4 or Alk does not get past 12-dkh. At about 12-dkh Alk corals will close up.

If my Alk or PH is high I use Calcium Chloride also. Every tank uses different amounts of Calcium and ALK and you know your own tank. If I guess and throw chemicals at my tank without testing first --- I usually get it wrong.

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"I like my unsubstantiated biased opinion better than your proven scientific facts!"

"OFM"


Enjoy!


OFM
 
A Troll

"An Internet troll, or simply troll in Internet slang, is someone who posts controversial and usually irrelevant or off-topic messages in an online community, such as an online discussion forum, with the intention of baiting other users into an emotional response[1] or to generally disrupt normal on-topic discussion"
 
Boomer;

What post or posts went off topic ?

I do not mean to generate a negative emotional response from anyone. I have tried to inject a little humor , however, if it is being taken the wrong way I will cease.

I have my opinion on things concerning this hobby that are not set in stone by proven science. I am also entitled to my opinion as others are to theirs.

When a member went of topic by asking you what side you fought on because of your age did you accuse him of trolling or being off topic ?

If your are referring to my signature's --- you have a bomb!

OFM
 
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Many opinions in this hobby are not set in stone but some are. Many so called opinions are from a lack of understand of the subject mater at hand or in some cases urban myths or just nonsense. Just because some gives an opinion does not mean is it automatically accepted or should be honored as it is a opinion.
 
You can make a ballpark calculation: 1-dkh of ALk used in the tank = about 20-ppm Calcium consumed. So, You can feed Kalk to your tank as long as PH does not go above 8.4 or Alk does not get past 12-dkh. At about 12-dkh Alk corals will close up.

You have that backwards and are in error:) It is for every 20 ppm Calcium consumed uses 1 meq / l or 2.8 dKh not **1 dKH. Alk can drop like a rock with no calcium uptake, like in a fish tank. And there are qutie a few guys that run high Alk's of 12 or higher without corals closing up. So, it may just be your tank or some tanks.
 
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Boomer;

If you are referring to me and my opinions be specific. I understand every subject that I respond to in depth. I do not offer unsubstantiated advice or refer to urban myths like, "all water from a tap needs to run through an RO unit" or "a certain percentage of your tank water needs to be changed each week" for example.

These are the individuals' choices on these matters. I will however defend my position when someone dictates what I or anyone else "should do" when it has no proven scientific backing.

People who read these posts take from them what they will. I usually encourage further reading on most of my posts and frequently give links for more or in-depth information. The links are not my favorites, they do not point to "my local fish store", and are unbiased in any way.

You are correct, nothing in this hobby should be automatically accepted as the only way to do something.


OFM
 
I do not dictate anything I pointed out you errors which are facts not fiction or opinion.

I understand every subject that I respond to in depth.

Oh, then how come you just skipped over the error I posted above, which is fact not an opinion. Here lets help you again :)

You can make a ballpark calculation: 1-dkh of ALk used in the tank = about 20-ppm Calcium consumed. So, You can feed Kalk to your tank as long as PH does not go above 8.4 or Alk does not get past 12-dkh. At about 12-dkh Alk corals will close up.

You have that backwards and are in error. It is for every 20 ppm Calcium consumed uses 1 meq / l or 2.8 dKh not **1 dKH. Alk can drop like a rock with no calcium uptake, like in a fish tank. And there are quite a few guys that run high Alk's of 12 or higher without corals closing up. So, it may just be your tank or some tanks.

I do not offer unsubstantiated advice

So you are saying ONLY your advice should be followed. It appears you are the dictator.
 
Ok back on topic. Boomer what is the best brand of kalkwasser should I use? Dosing the 2 part is getting old. Do you think I can just add the kalkwasser to my top off water and if so how would I calculate how much kalkwasser per gallon of top off water a day? Thanks

Sarang
 
Boomer;

1. You are pushing the limits of water chemistry. You know the recommended 7-to-11 dkh Alkaliniy and the recommended PH of 8.4 , there has to be a limit somewhere when dosing Kalkwasser. Many push the limits, I see my soft corals start to close up around 12-dkh and I do not have excess Borate in my tank giving me errors in my Alkaliniy readings. This is proven safe scientific fact!

2. I refer to a ballpark figure. I have 13-tanks --- not the biggest tanks around but this is what I average as consumption for Alkalinity and Calcium. Others may vary and do.

3. I also, suggest different means for mixing Kalkwasser --- adding vinegar for example if your tank does not have enough evaporation, more Calcium is needed, to lower PH, and to keep Alkalinity up through the night. So, Kalkwasser can be fed to a reef tank until one of the limiting factors are reached.

I do know the chemical relationship and coral uptake of Alkalinity and Calcium.

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Full Article: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm

"Let’s first look at how calcium and alkalinity are consumed in reef tanks."

Calcium is largely consumed by formation of calcium carbonate. This happens biologically3 in corals, coralline algae, mollusks, and a variety of other organisms. It can also happen abiotically1, such as by precipitation on heaters and pump impellers. In a reef tank with rapidly calcifying organisms, this effect will so predominate any other calcium export mechanism, that no others need be considered for this purpose.

Alkalinity2 for our purposes here is comprised of bicarbonate and carbonate. The vast majority of alkalinity depletion in most tanks also comes about by the precipitation of calcium carbonate, as described above. In this process, as alkalinity is depleted by 1 meq/L, calcium will be depleted by 20 ppm. There are some other processes that can lead to alkalinity depletion, including partial cycling of nitrogen (from organic compounds to nitrate and no further) and the incorporation of magnesium into calcium carbonate, but these are generally much less important than calcification.

Consequently, alkalinity depletion in most tanks (especially in short time frames) is tightly coupled to calcium depletion, and if one supplements calcium and alkalinity in proportions equal to those that they are being removed, then it is MUCH less likely that calcium and alkalinity will become imbalanced and thereby trickier to correct.


OFM
 
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