Lighting for Coral

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Detri

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 13, 2005
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Location
Ontario, Canada
I did a few searches and found nothing that I could understand as an answer. Yes I am new to Satlwater aquariums. I have had freshwater for years. I was and have been very successful in keeping them and have enjoyed them very much. After my last fish died I decided I am going to venture into Saltwater marine life.

K enough about myself :) I Really want some Corals. I am going to build my own Hood/canopy to suit my tank.

What type of lighting is ESSENTIAL for a 35g Tank? I plan to have only 2 or 3 fish, some invertibrates. I just want to set up the lighting once. So a little Info would be helpful. Oh and I will be heating it via a tube heater.

PS. This is an amazing site. I am looking forward to seeing more reviews on the equipment forums. Thanks to the person/s that built this site.
 
That really depends on the type of corals you want to keep. You can use Power Compact, T-5, and VHO's for softies and LPS. SPS corals need the higher lighting from a Metal Halide. I personally use a mix of VHO actinics with a 250W Metal Halide. I don't keep SPS but prefer the look of the MH light. What are the dimensions of your tank? I'm sure we can figure something out for ya.
 
As blazer said. It very much depends on what type of animals you want to keep. I think the end-all, be-all of lights is a 250watt metal halide system with VHO supplements. That will work for any tank from about 50g to 240 gallons depending on the depth of the tank.

However, that being said, if you never intended on keeping sps corals (acropora, montipora, millepora etc) then it would be overly expensive and over kill. Thus if you plan to start with some of the more simple species of soft corals, I would recommend you start with a good used VHO setup (Icecap 660 for example will run about $80-120 used with bulbs when you see them). Then if you want to accelerate to metal halides, the VHOs still have a use but you could get away with the VHO's for some time.

There are some differences between VHO, compact fluorescent and T5s. You will find proponents of each for different reasons on this site. I personally think the CF's are weak and the light looks less clean, the T5 setups are overly expensive for what you get (for a while everyone thought they were going to be the next best thing since sliced bread). The VHOs are reasonably cheap and you can modify the light a bit by the selection of bulbs. They run a bit hotter than the CFs or T5s and the bulbs take up a bit more space in the canopy.

Mat
 
I never really intend on SPS but still decided on a 250W MH with URI VHO actinics both with ARO electronic ballasts. I figured if I am going to do it, I'll do it right the first time and leave my options open for SPS in the future. It wasn't overly expensive as I got everything for about $250 new. I had power compacts on my last tank and didn't care for the quality of light even though it was "enough" to keep most corals (not SPS). Some people like T-5's, but I just don't think the light is quality. The ones I've seen in person remind me of PC's. With a MH bulb you get this really cool "shimmer" effect in the tank; sorta like looking at a pool in summer time. And the VHO actinics are 10 x's better than my PC actinic. Depending on the size of the tank, you can get a 175W MH and some VHO actinics for about what I paid and be able to keep anything you would ever want.
 
Blazer88 and bc slc are right on with their info.

Detri, figure out what kind of corals you want to keep then build the lighting around them. I think it is more important to plan ahead what corals and biotype you want, then set up accordingly (lighting, currents, nutrient levels, and so on). Tell us what corals you plan to keep and everyone can help recommend a good lighting solution for you. Just try not to impulse buy the really cool coral unless you know your tank is right for it. And most importantly, remember there is more then one way to slice an apple.
 
nobilis, yongei, granulosa and meandrina. Are a few I would like to add to the tank maybe switch things around for others as i decide. But I have a long time until I reach that point. I have alot of reading to do while my tank cycles. haha

My Tank in 36" L x 12.5" W x 16.5" H. I have a canopy on it already floresent lights at the moment. Sorry I have no clue what you all were reffering to with VHO's and PC's and T5's and such. So you will have to explain that to me. If I don't find the info about that stuff before you get to reply. Cichlids are a breaze to learn about compared to all this hehe.

Thanks for your patience in advance.
 
Detri - Welcome to Reef Frontiers!!!

I have a couple of articles that might help you out....at least to get the basics with regards to different types of lighting, and terms used:

Frequently Asked Questions on T5 Lighting

Lighting the Reef Tank

Glossary of Aquarium Lighting Terms

Personally, I'm a slow learner when it comes to lighting, so hopefully someone can help me with this question, too. Since Detri's tank is only 16.5" high, wouldn't 175W metal halide be fine? or would 250W metal halides be necessary for SPS?
 
I was wondering to. If I did go with MH 250w what lights shoud I pair with it. I am already going to add LEDs for moonlight effect. but that when the lights are going to be off.

And thanks for the links, very helpful. Still lots of Jargen to figure out. Wish there was more info told in laymens (sp?) Thats the most frustrating for me. I can stare at an empty tank all day. haha
 
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VHOs like regular flourescent tubes but brighter, they come in white and blue (actinic). The point of pairing them with a metal halide is to help bring out the color in corals by using actinic VHOs in much the same way blacklights make neon colors on shirts glow.
 
I think the 175W MH would work fine since the tank is pretty shallow. I was under the assumption that anything over 20" deep is better off with a 250W MH to get good water penetration. The other issue with going to a 250W is the extra heat generated by the bulb which can make a difference is a relatively small tank. And I personally like the match of MH w/VHO actinics. Here is a link to the same MH/VHO retro that I have.
http://diyreef.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=64&products_id=248
I have been most pleased with it so far and it should fit your tank. Can you post a picture of your current canopy? The kit is listed as 36" but you really need about 37" to clear the end caps and such. If that kit is too large you can go with the 24" kit if the lights are mounted high enough to cover the whole tank. Either of these would allow you to purchase a 175W MH bulb/ballast and you would be set.
 
detail


This is not what I am going to be useing. I will be building my own to fully cover the top of the tank. I also will be taking that one apart to use the fixtures themselves in the one I build.

The Bulbs are 35" in length and the canopy holding them is 36.25" in length
 
o.k.
lighting 101 :)

V.H.O. = very high output flourecent tubes, they look very similar to the lighting you would use for freshwater, except they require a larger, high powered ballast to run the bulbs. v.h.o. is known for having the best color when it comes to actinic(the purple lights) bulbs.

p.c. = power compact flourecent tubes, not quite as nice quality as the v.h.o. but still has high output(compared to standard flourecent bulbs), typically the least expensive high powered lighting. the bulbs are smaller, there's two of them stuck together with a socket on one end. again you need a special high powered ballast to run the bulbs.

T5 = t5 connotates the diameter of the bulb, which is very small, they look like tiny regular output bulbs, but they have an similar output to v.h.o. , depending on brand. they too need a special high powered ballast. the color of the bulbs is better than p.c. but not as nice as v.h.o. has much higher output than p.c.'s.

Metal Halides = similar to the kind of bulbs that you see in a parking lot, very bright, the most like natural sunlight that technology has to offer. these bulbs require a taller canopy on the tank(12") because of the potential heat they create. they are a screw in bulb with a similar socket to a regular light bulb. of coarse they too require a high powered ballast to run the bulb, and typically some fans inside of the canopy to help dissapate the heat they create. the output of the bulb is higher than any of the other types of lighting and comes in 175, 250 and 400 watt bulbs. by far the best quality bulbs for growing coral. because the light emanates from such a small source it produces the shimmering effect you see in the ocean or swimming pool. probably the most asthetically pleasing of all the different types of lighting available.

a couple other things to familiarize yourself with would be:

"kelvin" = is basically the color of the bulb, the available spectrum is usually anywhere from 6,500k(yellowish color) to 20,000k(bluish color), with 10,000k(crisp white) in the middle. most people choose either 10,000k , 12,000k , 14,000k or 20,000k depending on what color you like and the types of coral you have. corals probably grow faster with a 6,500k to 10,000k bulb, but they produce more color when you use 12,000k to 20,000k(they make more pigment in their flesh to protect themselves from the increased u.v. in the bluer bulbs).

"ballasts" = generally, there are the older style magnetic, larger, hotter ballasts that will still run metal halide and v.h.o. bulbs, but people these days usually choose the smaller, more enegy efficient, electronic ballasts. they cost about twice as much up front, but cost about 25% less in power consumtion, and they give the bulbs about 33% longer life.
some people prefer the older style magnetic ballasts because you typically get a slight increase in output, but you pay for it with decreased lifespan.

well i hope this helps you some, imo, i'd say go with the metal halide, with actinic supplementation by v.h.o. p.c. or t5 is o.k. for actinic, but v.h.o. looks better :)
 
Now thats a swee post Shimmerwhisperer. Thank you very much. Now that I understand what each does. I think i will go with a 250w MH and most likely V.H.O.

That post should be copied and stickied to a NEWB forum hehehe. Thanks a million.

Edited to move it to a new post instead.
 
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But could you use a 175w MH if you plan to have clams and anenomes? Not that I plan to have them, just a thought. For now :D
 
I think you would be ok with 175W for Clams and Anemones, but the extra power does help. My tank is roughly twice the size of yours and I'm running a single 250W. If you go the 250W route, I would put the bulb higher in the canopy and make sure to add some fans to keep everything cool.
 
The 250w MH will give you many more options in the future and Blazer88 is right, mount the 250w a little higher (if possible). That will give you better spread of light and less PAR reaching your corals. Then if you get bitten by the SPS bug in the future you can lower your bulb closer to the water (raising your PAR) and not have to buy another light system. I have upgraded to bigger and better some many times... It will save you in the long run. Plus going with electronic MH ballast will also lessen the PAR and make your system more efficient over all. Pretty hard to go wrong with 250w MH and Actinic VHO's.
 
yup, i agree, for a 3' long tank that's 16" deep a 250w would be just right :)
it should be just fine in a 12" standard m.h. canopy with a fan or 2.
with that and v.h.o. actinic you would be able to keep just about any type of coral, anemone, or clam in your system.
make sure you get yourself an oversized kick butt skimmer too :)
 
From what I understand, the skimmer I have is a little overkill. So I think I am good there :).

I did decide to go with a 250w system, going to add 2 fans to the lid I make. and two V.H.O. When I am comfortable to upgrade. I can always add a second 250w MH :idea:
 

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