Looking farther into getting a RO unit

[cronicreef]

I'm to the point were I want a RO unit. But I don't know anything about them.

Can I hook it up to a utility sink and disconnected it when I'm done or is this going to cause proplems. I would like to get it plumb it right to the pipes that run to the sink but I'm planning on moving in a year so I don't think it would be worth having installed and removing it in a year.

Also what should I look for when getting a RO unit or is it all the same!

 

[Curtswearing]

Most come with an attachment that allows you to hook it up to the faucet that can be attached and re-attached as needed.

If you live in an area with a high cost of water, look at rejection rates. Actually, even if you live in an area with inexpensive water but high TDS, look at the same thing. (I fill my washing machine with the excess water). Many of the people on this board live in Washington and only have TDS rates of 100 to 150. I'm not so blessed. In St. Louis, we typically run 350 to 450. (For the life of me, I can't figure out why the swing is so wide).

I really like the 75 GPD membranes or less but my source water isn't the greatest. Obviously, if I put a 100 GPD membrane in my system with the same water pressure, those extra 25 gallons came from allowing more impurities through. If the natural TDS of your water source is low, then maybe moving up to 100 GPD would be acceptable. In other words, I don't have a clue. You need to borrow a TDS meter and see what the incoming water is like.

 

[cronicreef]

you and me both curt. Thanks I'll try to get a meter sometime. Since your full of all sorts of good answers what does TDS stand for.

So if my TDS levels are high your saying I should get a higher Gal/day unit so I get more RO water. Might not be the entire 100gal corrected. Depends on were my TDS level are! But tell I can figure that out it would be hard to say what model I should be looking at!

But if I have low TDS levels I might be able to get 100gal a day out of a 100gal/day RO unit.

I hope I didn't loose you. I tend to do that to some people sometimes.

 

[wrightme43]

In Bowling Green Ky we have Total Dissolved Solids (tds) of 270-290. I bought the 6 stage 100gpd unit from Aqua Safe on E-bay for 117$ Comes with everything you need. The plumbing issue is easily solved. He will send you what ever adapter you would like. My understanding is that even though you wont use 100 gpd its best to get the biggest one because the ro membrane lasts longer. My tds meter is from e-bay for 14.95. When my water enters the 44 gal brute trash can for storge after filtration it has a tds reading of 001. I could not be happier. He also sells a T fitting and a under sink pressurized tank and a bar faucet for your drinking water supply. I am just pumping mine into a new 5 gal gas can (cleaned) and filling the jug in the fridge right now. I have to say it makes the best drinking water and great coffee and tea. I could not find a better deal anywhere. Our chemistry discussion moderator works for a ro membrane manufacturer and in a post said there are only the two ro membrane manufacturers. They both work. So why pay 350 plus for the same thing? Just my opinion and experince. I hope it helps you. You can pm me and I will e-mail you the address or e-bay store name.

 

[Curtswearing]

Sorry about that. TDS is Total Dissolved Solids. Here is a great article.

To make things easier...let's just say "dirtier water" vs "cleaner water". I would actually recommend the opposite unless monetary issues come into play. If your town puts out pretty clean water, you might be able to save a few bucks by using a higher-gallons-per-day unit. If your water is "dirtier" like St. Louis water, then the water-wasters (75 GPD units or less) would be better. Remember, the higher the rejection rate, the more nasties are removed.

 

[NaH2O]

TDS of 350....I wish . My lovely water is up there.....today it was 503. I've seen 550, and I have a water softener. Ah well. Thankfully, after replacing all my membranes, I'm back to post RO/DI TDS reading of 0 ppm. The dirtier your water the slower your output. For example. My unit is a 60gpd, but my TDS reading is double what is standard for the unit....therefore my output is less - I end up with about 30gpd when all is said and done (not 24 hours of running, but the majority of the day). Also, RO/DI units have a temperature that is optimal for water output, so if your water is (example) 55ºF instead of 70ºF (example), your output will be less. I recently learned there are add ons to correct temperature, but I think you have to tap the lines. Of course the pressure of your water makes a difference, too. The best thing to do is look to see what your unit requires in temperature, pressure, and TDS.

 

[cronicreef]

Thanks for the info I'll have to look the TDS and see what I decide on doing.
I would like to get a RO up and running befor the end of the year. So I'm sure you will hear more about what I'm doing befor I get it.