MH questions. Good or bad idea?

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menace78

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http://www.catalinaaquarium.com/index.php?cPath=71_83&osCsid=abd62d59d09f564e79bb602bcaa343b7
I was wondering what people thought about this light (250w version).
Seems hard to believe for $150. comes with pendant, ballest, and 10k light or call for other spectrum bulb. I was thinking like 14k.
Would that spectrum be good if i don't want to use suplemental actinic PC's? or should i go higher?

How well would this work for a 40g hex with a depth of 23"?
I do want a pendant so i can keep the top open for cooling but i was wondering the pro's and con's of using a pendent/open top, compared to a custom hood retrofit setup?

and does this look like a good setup for this size/shape tank?
I hope to put in lps, sps, and softies in there eventualy.
Maybe down the road a Maxima or something.

Thanks for the advice in advance :)
 
Last edited:
did you mean to include a link?

Many prefer 400w when a tank is 24" deep, for the penetration it provides over 250w.... although some lower kelvin 250w put out more light than a higher k 400w (ie 6500k vs. 20,000k). So part of it depends upon whether you want the flexibility in terms of which bulbs to use.

Pros/cons: pendants cost less than a custom hood, but a nice hood can look much nicer.
Open top cooling can be better than a closed hood, but some reflectors are vented, so when used in a closed hood may be fan vented outside.
Either way, a quality reflector will be better than a generic "retrofit" kit.

As for the price/value: as with anything, you tend to get what you pay for. PFO and Icecap have loyal followings for a reason. Various tests of bulbs show what they really are capable of, and the "better" ones charge appropriately.

Best of luck, I hope this helps. D
 
Thank you, I will keep that in mind.

I also should state that the tank is 23" of depth but with the 4-6" sandbed (front-back of tank) and the 3/4" from top fill height, it's actualy only needing to penatrate about 18" of water.

Many prefer 400w when a tank is 24" deep, for the penetration it provides over 250w.... although some lower kelvin 250w put out more light than a higher k 400w (ie 6500k vs. 20,000k). So part of it depends upon whether you want the flexibility in terms of which bulbs to use.

I have decided not to use the 400w for the reason of heat.
I figure if any specific coral I'll be keeping needs higher/lower light I'll just have them higher, lower, or under a ledge in the tank.
 
Hello;

Did I mention I worked in electronics most of my life! :)

I would still research this information. A ballist is a ballist, if the frequency, current, voltage and efficiency is the same. There may be a dependability issue but, not enough in my opinion to justify what some charge for these things. Also, the average PAR value for a 400 - watt MH is 140 -watts effective. Also, depending on the pendant or reflector a MH may still be a pin point light. It would be costly to purchase a reflector that dispersed light evenly over the surface of your tank.

I would search the internet for information and dependability issues, this light may be made well. :D

"This post will probably get more flak than an enemy bomber!" :eek:

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"I like my unsubstantiated biased opinion better than your proven scientific facts!"

"OFM"
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Enjoy!


OFM
 
$150 sounds a little cheap IMO, the pendant is very tight (spot) If you could get a more spread reflector It would cover more area rather than a tight focused spot of light.
I run 250's mh on my tank & it is 24" deep, keeping clams, sps etc. Some people use the T'5s or VHO's on smaller tanks like that & still do well, just place your sps higher.
 
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