Milwaukee sms122 controller miswired & stuck in the "closed" switch position

[class clown]

Does anyone have experince with the Milwaukee SMS122 PH controllers? if so, help...

I just bought this product brand new- cool controller for the price. But it seems almost counter intuitive.

I can't get my selenoid on my regulator to turn on unless the "alarm" goes off.

It is almost as though the darn thing is wired backwards.
Has anyone experienced this?

DO I having to worry about this flashing LED "alarm" burn out over time if it is contstantly flashing while the system is on?

Thanks for any help/advice that you could provide.

Ben

 

[Ohgee]

I don't know this controller personally but if you can't change from from NC to NO then what you can do is put a relay after it and change the state.

If you need help wiring it up let me know and I can walk you through it. But I would try to talk to manufactures first, it might be a simple parameter change in your settings.

Hope that helps
Duane

 

[Ohgee]

After doing a search for your controller in google I found some info on it. Guess maybe I should have started there

Don't personally use CO2 but from what I read it says the only time the output is on is when the readings drop below setpoint. So ...... CO2 solenoid opens and you get CO2.

If thats how it's supposed to work then I guess it's right but if you need it different you can still go with the relay afterwards changing it's state.

 

[class clown]

Thanks for the reply- this stuff is confusing..
***
Ok, maybe I do have it right afterall. The "alarm" (red flashing LED) only goes on once it reaches a certain preditermined high point. With the "alarm" on, my7 selenoid is open & co2 flows regularly. With the alarm off, Co2 does not flow at all. Thus maybe it is set up correctly afterall. Maybe the alarm is just a code word for "it's working"..

Anyone have experience with these?

 

[class clown]

I wrote to the milwaukee tec folks this evening....

Here is what I sent them:

Question about your instructions for setup

Originally, I thought that an alarm would go off once the PH dropped to a certain level. intuitively, I thought that once the alarm starts blinking, it in turn shuts of the co2 regulator (also milwaukee brand- you will be happy to know 957). This line of thinking was how I thought the unit was supposed to work b/c in my mind, "alarm" means bad or stop and this is how I originally interpreted the directions

Now, I am starting to go down a different line of thinking.. The controller I have now is set up in a way that once PH raises past a certain point, the alarm goes off signalling the Co2 selenoid to be on.. with the CO2 pumping in, it will lower my PH & the alarm will go off causing the PH to shut off concurrently. Thus, "alarm" means go. I think I could make it work If this is how it supposed to be set up, but want to make sure I do not have a defective product.

Is the second line of thinking more accurate? is the controller supposed to be designed this way so that when the alarm light is on, this triggers the selenoid to also be on? if so, the instructions provided (user manual for these systems) totally contradicts this, as they state "the meter works as a normally open switch. when alarm is active (meas>setpoint) the switch is closed."

(I will let you know once I hear back)
(I am posting this so that it could possibly eliviate some confusion for other buyers out there that may have to go through the same set up headaches as myself)

 

[reedman]

They are setup so that when you hit a set high point the controller turns the CO2 on to bring the PH down. This may seem counter, but it is how they work. In a freshwater aquarium you add CO2 to maintain a PH and to feed plants. For a reef we add CO2 to disolve calcium media, but in doing so we drive the PH in our tanks down also. Many people dose Kalk driving PH up. The controller can turn the CO2 on when the Kalk drives the PH over a set point in turn bringing the PH back down to an acceptable level.

 

[mattseattle]

hey ben,

i've read a few threads on RC about this. when the alarm light is on the solenoid is open. seems backwards but that is by design.

apparently if you don't like it you can send it to Milwaukee and they'll reverse it for you.

funny on Custom Aquatics site they sell 2 versions of the controller. One that shuts off when it reaches a set pH and one that turns on when it reaches a set pH. i wonder why....

 

[class clown]

well, it is official.. although it seems backwards, here is the final answer from milwaukee...

"Good morning Benjamin,

Your line of thinking is correct. Within the electrical engineering community an alarm light indicates power is flowing. Many of our customers have the same basic confusion you initially had. We all thank of an alarm light as stop. However as stated before alarm lights in electrical engineering means power is flowing.

You do indeed have a standard configuration SMS122 and it sounds like it is functioning correctly. If you have any further questions please get in touch.

With best regards.
Bryan Moore.
Technical Support
Milwaukee Instruments "


(hope this helps for anyone experiencing the same confusion as I had when I was setting this up... p.s- and remember- don't call me Benjamin- Ben is just fine ) )

 

[Desolas]

funny on Custom Aquatics site they sell 2 versions of the controller. One that shuts off when it reaches a set pH and one that turns on when it reaches a set pH. i wonder why....

So you can either control your pH with CO2 and keep the pH low, or the other could be wired to a dosing pump of some kind to pump a high pH effluent to keep the pH high. In theory if you had low pH problems and wanted to keep your pH at 8.4 you could have it run a small powerhead that pumps kalk into the tank.

Ben, I've also to answer your question about the alarm light, I've been using these controllers for 2+ years and I've not had one go out. It's an LED, so it will be fine for many, many years. For the price they are really sweet controllers, I just wish they weren't bright lime green.

 

[mattseattle]

now i have a question...

when you received your ph controller did you receive just the 7.0 pH calibration fluid or did you also receive a 4.0 pH fluid? the instructions in the box mentions it should be calibrated with both. i only received the 7.0 pH calibration fluid in my kit.

 

[class clown]

ha...
Same exact question I had.. I was actually slightly pissed initially b/c I thought I was jipped a bag of 4 calibration solution.. although I have read a couple forums that say it is good to calibrate at the 4, 7, and 10. Milwaukee indicates you should just do the 7. Don't beleive me, here is Milwaukee's answer...

"your unit should have come with a card indicating you are only to calibrate at the seven calibration point, because you're operating inside the neutral zone. This is why we only place one package of seven calibration solution in the box with your unit. If you calibrate at the four or 10 position, you pull the unit off either to the acidic side or the alkaline side.

Hope you find this information helpful.
Best regards. "

(it is sad, but I am glad that others had the same issues as I did when I was setting this thing up b/c I was begginning to form a complex ) )

 

[class clown]

Thank's for the tip on the LED- this helps!

 

[mattseattle]

ok, that is all good information. i'm glad they promptly answer their support questions.

now if i could just paint this thing so it's not lime green!

 

[Desolas]

when you received your ph controller did you receive just the 7.0 pH calibration fluid or did you also receive a 4.0 pH fluid? the instructions in the box mentions it should be calibrated with both. i only received the 7.0 pH calibration fluid in my kit.

FWIW I have calibrated all of mine against the 4 and 7 pH packets and they have all been right on out of the box, with the exception of requiring a little tweaking at the 7. It would read 7.1.

I got another one of these controllers today, same thing. But after a year or so in service I start to check it again against 4 and 7 to make sure the slope is in line and one of them has required a little adjustment, another required a new probe; which is on par with my Pinpoint meters.