Need tips on building a stand

[xxkenny90xx]

So after a couple of issues with my plumbing my waterlogged particle board stand is looking pretty sketchy, so I'd like to build myself a nice new stand and maybe a hood. Before I start I'd like to see if anyone has any tips or tricks for me. My tank is a 90 gallon (48x18x24) by the way.

Goals:
I want a bigger sump to fit down there (I currently have a 20 gallon) but I also want to be able to work comfortably in it. I am hoping I can make a 40b fit, maybe I can have a ledge sticking out the back for the 40 to extend onto??

I want my ato reservoir to fit and to be able to fill it easily.

I need this to be relatively cheap but not cheap looking

Must be totally water tight

I'm a pretty good wood worker but anything you guys can think of that I should include in my plans would be great. I really just want this stand to make maintenance easier in the future.

 

[spieszak]

over built, and pretty bullet proof.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1169964

 

[halmus]

Here are a couple of ideas:

-build the stand so that its 6" oversized on both sides and/or front. That gives you extra sump space below and a nice place (shelf) to set things while you're working on the tank. It also makes it handy if you ever wanted to make the jump to a bigger tank. No need to rebuild the stand if you're jumping up to a 48 x 24 x 24 (120 gal). Stands don't absolutely have to be the exact dimension of the tank as long as they're engineered to support the weight correctly. Store bought stands are generally exact dimension of the tanks footprint because it takes less material to support the weight straight down (cheeper). Just make sure you build the stand strong enough to support the weight if it is oversized because the physics behind the weight distribution changes when the weight is spanned over a wider area and their aren't supports straight down under the tank.

-make removable panels, access panels, or doors on the end of the stand so you can access the sump area from as many angles as possible.

-If FRP is in the budget, look into it at least for the floor of the sump area in the stand. They sell it at major hardware stores. It makes a nice liner that moisture won't leak through when water is splashed out of the sump. Think about the water that wicks under the sump when there is a spill. If that water is trapped under the sump on top of wood, it will slowly weaken the stand. Silicone it in around the edges and if possible, line as much of the sump area with it.


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[1guydude]

Is ur drain still gurgling? Im no engineer or carpenter lol but i will siggest adding a wc system to the plumbing. Cpl valves and 3/4" screw.on adapters for garden hose. Gravity feed out and than another for ur pump so u can pump it back in. Hths
D

 

[1guydude]

Is ur drain still gurgling? Im no engineer or carpenter lol but i will siggest adding a wc system to the plumbing. Cpl valves and 3/4" screw.on adapters for garden hose. Gravity feed out and than another for ur pump so u can pump it back in. Hths
D

 

[xxkenny90xx]

Thanks for the input guys, I'll be using pretty much all of your ideas. And that link was great! I think I'll make it 54x24 (still unsure about height) and make removable panels on both ends. What is frp? D my tank has been pretty quiet lately until yesterday when I cranked my return pump up to full blast, now it's loud again. I like the idea of setting up my plumbing so that I can hook the hose up for water changes but I can't picture how it will work with my hob overflow?? I could set it up into my return line but that wouldn't empty out enough water..? Great suggestions guys, keep them coming!

 

[xxkenny90xx]

BTW I picked up a 40b sump tank at petsmart for $40 today so I am committed!

 

[spieszak]

if you plumb it into your return line, you just need a couple of ball values. close the one to the tank, open the one with the hose fitting and turn the return pump on. Once the water is pumped out, close the one to the hose fitting, reopen the one to the tank.

 

[mfinn]

I have built a few stands in my time in the hobby and one of the easiest ways I've found ( for me) was to just start out by building a box out of ( almost always) 3/4" plywood. Since it's going to be a finished surface, I like to use oak or maple veneer plywood.
But the secrete is to make it perfectly square and level.
Then add some interior support, like 2x4's.
Glue and screws make the support and the skin all one and very strong.

Here is a link to my build for my old 240. Several pictures were lost from Imageshack so they don't show up.
But it might give you some ideas.

The stand in the link is 10 years old now and still in use.


http://www.reeffrontiers.com/threads/18939-My-240

 

[mfinn]

I'm not seeing the link so, it's in the members show case section titled My 240.

 

[xxkenny90xx]

Oh haha, I just read about 10 pages from your 233 link thinking it was the same right link. It was interesting reading about taking out your door, I'll check out the correct link now!

 

[mfinn]

Oh haha, I just read about 10 pages from your 233 link thinking it was the same right link. It was interesting reading about taking out your door, I'll check out the correct link now!

I'm using the stand for my 233, that I built for the 240.

Plus one important thing, make a door on the end. Makes getting a sump in and out a simple thing.

 

[halmus]

FRP, I believe, stands for fiberglass re-enforced plastic. I might be off on that acronym but I've used it to line sumps and currently have used it to cover entire walls in a filtration room. It is ~1/8" material that is impervious to moisture. You see it in commercial applications in bathrooms, kitchens, other areas exposed to abuse and moisture. Its probably overkill in a sump, but worth looking into.

This hobby is often about DIY solutions. DIY solutions are often about knowing what materials are out there, what their limitations/capabilities are, and how others have used them. After that, it's just experimentation and having fun or making mistakes we can all learn from.

Good luck with the build. Post pictures and build that stand like you plan on parking a car on it.


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[xxkenny90xx]

Thanks for the input, I totally agree halmus. Somebody also mentioned cutting a shower pan to fit. Once my plans are drawn up and I'm buying materials I'll check out both ideas!

 

[mfinn]

The shower pan or other rubber type membranes seem like a good idea, but I got a stand from someone that had attempted to use a shower pan to water proof the bottom.
The person really didn't take the time and make the ffort to do a decent job and it looked like ****.
The first thing I did was to rip it out. Replace the wood on the bottom, calk the corners and seams and then use 4 coats of exterior latex.

The stand bottom was water proof when I was done.

My current 233 stand has a sheet of very thin pvc ( I got from work). It's .016 thick. The corners are caulked and even after 10 years is still water proof.
I had a small ( very large atm ) disaster when replacing my closed loop pump and filled the whole bottom of the stand with water.