New tank design.....Thought?

[Workaholic]

Ok, so a screw up on measurements on my part lead to a fantastic new sump being built too large for my current stand under my 5' 100g. This lead me to go 1 of two routes; Build a new stand/canopy for the existing 100g (the current ones are kinda warn anyways) or 2, upgrade tanks. Here's the new tank design I came up with, based on Garf's calculator I should be able to use 1/2" material (glass or acrylic) to build it. Currently I have an email out to the same acrylic builder that did my sump to see if the tank is a project he's up for tackling.

So here's the explanation on the design, currently my 100g sits in a alcove in my living room. With the dimensions of this new tank it should bring the tank to fill that alcove. Depending on the response I get from the builder I may undertake building the tank myself out of glass. Not only because of the cost but I prefer the look of glass tanks and there aren't any local custom glass tank builders that I know of.

What do you think?

 

[Workaholic]

well i've uploaded the pic several times and apparently photobucket is resizing it without my permission which is why its so small and tough to read.

 

[eww]

Hey Tom... My first thought is... Why only one overflow? If you are just trying to keep it tucked back in the corner I would think about a semi coast to coast overflow that runs across the back wall and dumps into the overflow. This would help tremendously with the surface skimming over just the corner overflow. Otherwise if it all works for you go for it. Between glass and acrylic... My personal preference is always glass for durability and appearance.

 

[Workaholic]

Hey Tom... My first thought is... Why only one overflow? If you are just trying to keep it tucked back in the corner I would think about a semi coast to coast overflow that runs across the back wall and dumps into the overflow. This would help tremendously with the surface skimming over just the corner overflow. Otherwise if it all works for you go for it. Between glass and acrylic... My personal preference is always glass for durability and appearance.

Well the reason for the single overflow is to keep in the corner where the 2 walls are at. I would love to do a coast to coast but that would require losing some of the depth to the tank to allow the overflow box to come out of the back. All though with your thoughts of it tying into the corner overflow that would work as long as it was all internal and still allow for the maximum depth of the tank to be kept.

 

[eww]

Yeah. It would not need to be very big as it's doesn't serve for the entire water volume of the overflow. It serves as skimming the surface and delivering that water to the main overflow box where most of the flow happens. 2" x 2" would probably do it but that is strictly a guess. Maybe someone here who has actually built one like this will have some input to size. I know Dave (peppie) has built them this way before as well as a few others. I wish I would have installed one between the towers on the 180 before we filled it.

 

[Workaholic]

Yeah. It would not need to be very big as it's doesn't serve for the entire water volume of the overflow. It serves as skimming the surface and delivering that water to the main overflow box where most of the flow happens. 2" x 2" would probably do it but that is strictly a guess. Maybe someone here who has actually built one like this will have some input to size. I know Dave (peppie) has built them this way before as well as a few others. I wish I would have installed one between the towers on the 180 before we filled it.

I can definitely see a benefit to adding a 2-3' long coast to coast to tie into the corner overflow the only issue I see with it though is being able to access the inside of it with the eurobrace. I know it would be near impossible for something to get in there but you know murphy's law.

Tom

 

[Darthv247]

algae will grow in there if its channeling to the overflow and yah will be very hard to get out with a eurobrace above it. ive heard of people using mesh screen in them and removing the algae that way.

 

[mojoreef]

I would make the euro brace 4 inches on the three sides and then 2 inches on the back wall and go for a coast to coast overflow.


MIke

 

[Workaholic]

I would make the euro brace 4 inches on the three sides and then 2 inches on the back wall and go for a coast to coast overflow.


MIke

So are you saying eliminate the eurobrace going around the front of the overflow? would the 4" side still be 4" on top of the overflow? Are you referring to he coast to coast method that eric described?

Here's another question, does the eurobrace have to be one piece? would it be possible to have each side be its own piece and then joined at the corners?

Thanks,
Tom

 

[mojoreef]

Tom its tough to read the plan, but I would say have euro brace go around the 3 sides of the tank as you have drawn, on the third side (the back where the overflow is going) make that brace only 2 inches. This will allow you to be able to get in and out of the overflow, then you could go from one end of the back to the other with an overflow, this is called coast to coast.

So couple of things, you should have euro bracing top and bottom, it gives you more silicone area for strength, and yes they are individual pieces that you silicone in place. Or you could skip the upper euro and replace that glass with angle iron (epoxy painted) to keep the upper profile even smaller and allowing for even more room. On the coast to coast it does not have to be deep, mine is only 4 inches deep into the tank (thats dicatated by the drain line hole I put in).

Sooooo you should come up with an over all plan for your water flow, as that will tell us the big picture and then we can comment on where the pipes are going to be stashed.

we'll get their

Mojo

 

[Workaholic]

Tom its tough to read the plan, but I would say have euro brace go around the 3 sides of the tank as you have drawn, on the third side (the back where the overflow is going) make that brace only 2 inches. This will allow you to be able to get in and out of the overflow, then you could go from one end of the back to the other with an overflow, this is called coast to coast.

So couple of things, you should have euro bracing top and bottom, it gives you more silicone area for strength, and yes they are individual pieces that you silicone in place. Or you could skip the upper euro and replace that glass with angle iron (epoxy painted) to keep the upper profile even smaller and allowing for even more room. On the coast to coast it does not have to be deep, mine is only 4 inches deep into the tank (thats dicatated by the drain line hole I put in).

Sooooo you should come up with an over all plan for your water flow, as that will tell us the big picture and then we can comment on where the pipes are going to be stashed.

we'll get their

Mojo

I wish I could upload a bigger version but photobucket is automatically resizing the image.

As for the overflow, i had originally thought about doing a "true" coast to coast. In order to do that though, every inch of overflow that style is an inch of depth that I loose in the tank. The total Maximum footprint i have to work with is 64.25"x29.5" which is why I chose the dimensions I did for the tank.

I was able to speak with the acrylic builder today and it looks like i'll be going that route. with the closest glass tank builder being glasscages.com the cost would be just too high to have the tank built and then to ship the darn thing. Not only that but my acrylic builder is thinking he'll be able to get his hands on some 3/4" "scrap" material that would be used free of charge to use for the bottom panel. Since the eurobrace can be multiple pieces then thats great he can use the cuttings and maximize the use of each sheet.

As for flow my plan is a eheim 1262 return pump using 2 1.5" drains in a herbie style drain setup and a single 1" return. My plan was to have all 3 bulkheads coming through the bottom in the overflow (hence the large size). Beyond that my goal is to have the tank as energy efficient as possible. plan to run koralia evo powerheads, unless I find a deal on some vortechs's. If I do find a deal on some then I would go with a pair of mp40's and call it a day, I hear nothing but great things about them and they are very energy efficient. All though if I were to run vortechs, unless I run them on the left side of the tank I have the whole space issue again. Eventually I MAY go LED but honestly it will almost be negligible as compared to T5's in my case for energy consumption.

Tom

 

[mojoreef]

As for the overflow, i had originally thought about doing a "true" coast to coast. In order to do that though, every inch of overflow that style is an inch of depth that I loose in the tank. The total Maximum footprint i have to work with is 64.25"x29.5" which is why I chose the dimensions I did for the tank.

Yes but the coast to coast does not have to go to the bottom of the tank? Mine is only 3 inches deep into the tank? so you still maintain full depth across the whole back of the tank with the exception of the top 3 inches? and you get tens times better pull of for removing floating detritus in the tank?

anyway your call just adding some input

Mike

 

[Workaholic]

Yes but the coast to coast does not have to go to the bottom of the tank? Mine is only 3 inches deep into the tank? so you still maintain full depth across the whole back of the tank with the exception of the top 3 inches? and you get tens times better pull of for removing floating detritus in the tank?

anyway your call just adding some input

Mike

Yes, I understand the overflow wouldn't have to go the full height of the tank itself but the plumbing coming out of the back of the tank is where I would loose depth as those would be going the full height, just on the outside.

Thanks,
Tom

 

[Peppie]

As I understand the building of an acrylic tank the euro brace for the top is typically made from one solid sheet. Then the hole or holes for the top are cut in. The acrylic top euro brace needs to have a radius cut at all of the corners to prevent cracking of the brace at the corners.

A glass tank euro brace is made of individual pieces.
This may help you visualize the Coast to Coast. Just imagine the deep box at the end is your overflow box inside your tank

You could notch the end of the CTC into your overflow box. If you used magnets to hold it in place you could remove it for cleaning, if your bracing is covering it. Or as Mojo said use angle iron/alum around the top for the bracing. It would be cheaper and less intrusive that way.

You do not need to run any other plumbing other than what is in your overflow box to have the CTC on the back of your tank.

Have you considered a Close Loop for flow??

 

[Workaholic]

Peppie,
Glad you chimed in, I was hoping you would be able to post pictures of what Eric is talking about. That type of CTC would work as it would allow me to retain the depth of the tank and still get the benefits of a CTC. How is the one you displayed held up? Why are the teeth so tall on that one? wouldn't it drop the water level into the viewing area?

As for a closed loop, it is definitely something I've considered all though trying to get the energy consumption of the tank as efficient as possible I would like to use powerheads as they would only use a small fraction of the electricity as compared the the baldor powered Dart I have sitting in my hobby room (which is currently FS). I could get the same 3600gph as I would from the dart that consumes ~115watts with 2 evo 1400's and an evo 750 for under 30 watts.

I believe the angle iron that Mike was referring to was to replace the euro bracing.

Thanks,
Tom

 

[Peppie]

The one I posted is just for the HOB skimmer that I run on my tank. The deep end holds the intake pipe of the skimmer. I cut the teeth that deep for a just in case. After the tank was up and running I had to place a piece of acrylic behind the teeth to get the proper flow into the weir.
The water level in my tank is dictated buy my AIO sump/return.
You are so right about the power consum. on the closed loop. But you must look at all those PHs, and clean them, and point them ...LOL
Was also thinking about the 3/4'' bottom for your acrylic tank. Doesnt need to be that thick, The sides will set on top of the bottom and the euro brace will set on top of the bottom and inside the sides.
This is what I used to get more welding surface for all of my inside corners.

Are you using 1/2 acrylic for the tank? And what brand of cell cast acrylic is your builder using?

 

[Workaholic]

The tank is designed to run all 1/2" acrylic, as for the brand i'm really not sure. I can tell you its the same stuff that Federally funded builders use. The only reason for the 3/4 bottom is because its free and it wont be seen. Helps cut the cost of the tank down quite a bit.

oh trust me I do really like the look of a closed loop. Having had one on my last tank, they sure do look allot better than a bunch of ph's. Unfortunately one the negative parts about living in king county is the cost of utilities. Having been raised in pierce I was spoiled in having utilities that cost literally 1/3 that of king county homes. Highway robbery........

Great idea on the corners!

 

[Peppie]

Free is always the best price!!

You could always train some hamsters to row a little boat to create so electricity. LOL You may need 30 or 40 of them to power an Dophin pump. Just make sure you get a couple that can say "STROKE-STROKE-STROKE" from what the commercial says that is the hardest part of the training.