jlehigh
Hermit D Crab
Hey Folks Help me in helping new folks joining and or researching the hobby. There are a plethora of great threads, articles ect explaining in details reefkeeping principals and methods but newbie's need a place to begin.
Use this thread to provide feedback and help me work to finalize a concise HIGH level Q&A guide.
I do not want to debate the finer points here. Lets operate under the KISS (Keep it simple stupid) method to ensure progress and complettion is achieved. I realize EVERTHING is and has been debated but keep the newbies in mind.
________________________________________________________________
Reeffrontiers Resource Libray Links:
Great Threads!
http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=51
FAQ
http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=33
_______________________________________________________________
Kick Start Questions:
What animals do you plan to keep? (Mixed Reef, Small Polyp Stonies, Large Polyp Stonies, Softies, Fish Only)
Where do you plan on putting the tank?
Do you have any spacial contraints where the tank is planned on residing?
How large is your planned tank (LXWXH)?
How often do you want to perform maintenance? (Daily, Weekly, Monthly)
What is your ideal budget? (Low 2-500, Med 500-1500, large 1500-5000, What ever it takes)
Is equipment noise a problem?
Reef tanks can take months of planning and years to develop. They require consistent, and persistent care. This takes both time and money.
Tank building stages:
Start-up plan (3-6 months)
- Tank design
- Plumbing/Flow
- Aquascape
- Lighting
- Filtration technique
- Asthetic touches
- Maint schedule (high level plan)
- Planned Animal diversity
Initial Stocking (1-6 months)
- Tank fill and aquascape 1-3 days
- Completion of the Nitrogen Cycle 1-6 months
- Clean-up crew (after cycle)
- Slowly add compatible animals aligned with your long term plan
Ball Park Water Params:
- Temp 76-83F
- PH 7.9-8.3
- DKH (Alkalinity) 6-12
- Salinity; Reef-1.23-1.26 Fish Only-1.20-1.26
- Calcium 320-480ppm
- Magnesium 1100-1500ppm
- ORP 300-425 (monitored by most advanced aquarists)
- Phosphate - as close to zero as possible
- Nitrate; Reef-0 Fish Only-Under 40ppm (0 to keep algae in step)
Reef Type Characteristics
SPS Keepers = High Flow, Perfect & consistent water conditions, High Light (Metal Halide, T-5's in shallow tanks)
LPS Keepers = Medium to High flow, Very good & consistent water conditions, Medium to high light (Comact PC, VHO, T-5, Metal Halides)
Softy keepers = Low to medium flow, good and consistent water conditions, low to high light (Comact PC, VHO, T-5, Metal Halides)
Salt Mixes:
Research the various salt mixes through the online references available and choose ONE. Stick with it. If a change is neccesary perform this via small water changes over time.
Mixing Water:
Mixing saltwater is a simple but important process. Once you have chosen your choice of salt mix you will need to couple it with water
duh. Well there is a little more to it than that. Saltwater changes and additions can alter the existing chemistry balance of your existing tank at varying levels depending on the size of your tank and the size of your water change/addition. It is your goal to as closely as possible mirror the existing water's salinity and temperature. Some folk even take more care to adjust the PH, Calcium and Alkalinity levels. This will ensure the least amount of change and in turn stress for your inhabitants. I recommend mixing water overnight with a powerhead and heater in whatever your clean "unsoaped" storage container is to ensure the salt is properly disolved, the water airated, and heated.
My water evaporates
Good! This means water is mixing with air in your tank which helps to keep the heat in check, the water oxygenated assists in stabalizing your PH. Salt does not evaporate (not much anyway) so DO NOT ADD MORE SALT WATER. Replace evaporated water with fresh water. The more consistent and frequently you maintain your water level the more stable your tank conditions. Some people choose to automate this process using simple gadgets like Float switches while others simply add a jug or two a day
Using Tap vs Filtered Water
First thing is first. Crap in = Crap out. It is good to validate what is in your local tap water. You can do this by looking up your utility company online and obtaining their spec list on the various elements they have measured in your water or you can use what is called a TDS meter. Places like FL where the water is essentially extracted from swamp mud may prove to have unnacceptable levels of metals, phosphate and additives. Here in suburban Seattle we have very good water on tap, I however choose to filter the water anyway. Why? To have control over all things that go into my tank. Aquatic life forms can thrive and die by small amounts of elements common in Tap water. For example: My house is plumbed with copper pipes. Copper is TOXIC to sessile invertebres therefore to limit even the slightest trace of copper I filter all of my fresh water for both water replacement (fresh top-off) and water changes (salt-water). Phosphate is commonly found in TAP water and is directly harmless to tank inhabitants in small amounts HOWEVER this is Alagaes favorite food and algae can present all kinds of asthetic and directly harmful impacts to your tank inhabitants.
What type of a filter do I use?
Reverse Osmosis filters (RO) have proven to be the most afforable and cost effective means to remove virtually all unwanted elements from tap water. These units can range from 1 to 6 stages of filtration. Typically Reverse Osmosis filters with 4 or more stages also incorporate a Deionizing filter membrane and are then referred to as Reverse Osmosis/Deionizing filters (RO/DI). I wont get into the details buit the end result is clean, colorless, odorless water.. Ahhh just right By the way "Deionize" is simply to remove ions from a solution.
Aquascape:
What looks best in the early stages of a reef tank may look terrible once your reef has matured and grown. A smart aquascape should provide ample hiding places by way of caves, and partitions while also enabling water to flow over every surface.
Stocking:
Stocking you tank should require careful planning and PATIENCE. Every animal you add to you tank will impact the bilogical balance to some extent. Most animals available in the hobby also have strict living and compatability requirements. DO NOT BUY the pretty fish, coral or invert in the store because you like the looks of it. Get it's name, go home and research the animal ensuring it aligns with the long term goals of your tank. Is it compatable with existing and planned animals? Will it out grow your tank quickly? Does your tank design meet the animals living and THRIVING requirements? Is it proven to be viable in captivity?
Methods of Filtration:
Skimming - Waste particulate referred to as detritus contains water poluting components which cling to Oxygen. Protein skimmers in essence pass small bubbles through water and deposit the clinging particulate matter outside the tank in a collection cup. Their are many different methods protein skimmers accomplish this however two fundamental principles impact the effectiveness of any skimmer: Bubble size and water throughput rates. The smaller the bubbles the larger the surface area, the larger the surface area, the more potential crap clinging. Crap clinging takes time though, so if a skimmer is pushing too much water through it, crap wont have time to cling and the result is a less effective skimmer.
Water Changes - "A solution to polution is dilution" For many many years aquariasts have sustained water quality by simply removing dirty water and replacing it with new water. If your goal is nutrient removal or even to maintain a balanced water chemistry (i.e., Calcium replentishment ect) water changes can do it. Large frequent water changes are mush more difficult to balance with your existing tank conditions and small water changes may not prove to bring much benefit. Common practice amongst us "changers" is 10-20% water changes bi-weekly, or monthly.
Biological - To some extent bilogical filtration takes place in ALL saltwater tanks. In a nut shell biological filtration entails the absorbtion, or use of nutrients by living life-forms. Whether you have substrate, Live rock, macroalgae, or nothing in the tank bilogical filtration is occuring. Beneficial bacteria is what most people refer to as the biological filters and puts most of the "live" in live rock.
________________________________________________________________
Okay, I'm out of breath for the moment. Let me know what y'all think...
If a decent consensus can be reached this could prove a time saving tool in our new Newbie forum Just a cut and paste job to get things rolling maybe..
Use this thread to provide feedback and help me work to finalize a concise HIGH level Q&A guide.
I do not want to debate the finer points here. Lets operate under the KISS (Keep it simple stupid) method to ensure progress and complettion is achieved. I realize EVERTHING is and has been debated but keep the newbies in mind.
________________________________________________________________
Reeffrontiers Resource Libray Links:
Great Threads!
http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=51
FAQ
http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=33
_______________________________________________________________
Kick Start Questions:
What animals do you plan to keep? (Mixed Reef, Small Polyp Stonies, Large Polyp Stonies, Softies, Fish Only)
Where do you plan on putting the tank?
Do you have any spacial contraints where the tank is planned on residing?
How large is your planned tank (LXWXH)?
How often do you want to perform maintenance? (Daily, Weekly, Monthly)
What is your ideal budget? (Low 2-500, Med 500-1500, large 1500-5000, What ever it takes)
Is equipment noise a problem?
Reef tanks can take months of planning and years to develop. They require consistent, and persistent care. This takes both time and money.
Tank building stages:
Start-up plan (3-6 months)
- Tank design
- Plumbing/Flow
- Aquascape
- Lighting
- Filtration technique
- Asthetic touches
- Maint schedule (high level plan)
- Planned Animal diversity
Initial Stocking (1-6 months)
- Tank fill and aquascape 1-3 days
- Completion of the Nitrogen Cycle 1-6 months
- Clean-up crew (after cycle)
- Slowly add compatible animals aligned with your long term plan
Ball Park Water Params:
- Temp 76-83F
- PH 7.9-8.3
- DKH (Alkalinity) 6-12
- Salinity; Reef-1.23-1.26 Fish Only-1.20-1.26
- Calcium 320-480ppm
- Magnesium 1100-1500ppm
- ORP 300-425 (monitored by most advanced aquarists)
- Phosphate - as close to zero as possible
- Nitrate; Reef-0 Fish Only-Under 40ppm (0 to keep algae in step)
Reef Type Characteristics
SPS Keepers = High Flow, Perfect & consistent water conditions, High Light (Metal Halide, T-5's in shallow tanks)
LPS Keepers = Medium to High flow, Very good & consistent water conditions, Medium to high light (Comact PC, VHO, T-5, Metal Halides)
Softy keepers = Low to medium flow, good and consistent water conditions, low to high light (Comact PC, VHO, T-5, Metal Halides)
Salt Mixes:
Research the various salt mixes through the online references available and choose ONE. Stick with it. If a change is neccesary perform this via small water changes over time.
Mixing Water:
Mixing saltwater is a simple but important process. Once you have chosen your choice of salt mix you will need to couple it with water
duh. Well there is a little more to it than that. Saltwater changes and additions can alter the existing chemistry balance of your existing tank at varying levels depending on the size of your tank and the size of your water change/addition. It is your goal to as closely as possible mirror the existing water's salinity and temperature. Some folk even take more care to adjust the PH, Calcium and Alkalinity levels. This will ensure the least amount of change and in turn stress for your inhabitants. I recommend mixing water overnight with a powerhead and heater in whatever your clean "unsoaped" storage container is to ensure the salt is properly disolved, the water airated, and heated.My water evaporates
Good! This means water is mixing with air in your tank which helps to keep the heat in check, the water oxygenated assists in stabalizing your PH. Salt does not evaporate (not much anyway) so DO NOT ADD MORE SALT WATER. Replace evaporated water with fresh water. The more consistent and frequently you maintain your water level the more stable your tank conditions. Some people choose to automate this process using simple gadgets like Float switches while others simply add a jug or two a day
Using Tap vs Filtered Water
First thing is first. Crap in = Crap out. It is good to validate what is in your local tap water. You can do this by looking up your utility company online and obtaining their spec list on the various elements they have measured in your water or you can use what is called a TDS meter. Places like FL where the water is essentially extracted from swamp mud may prove to have unnacceptable levels of metals, phosphate and additives. Here in suburban Seattle we have very good water on tap, I however choose to filter the water anyway. Why? To have control over all things that go into my tank. Aquatic life forms can thrive and die by small amounts of elements common in Tap water. For example: My house is plumbed with copper pipes. Copper is TOXIC to sessile invertebres therefore to limit even the slightest trace of copper I filter all of my fresh water for both water replacement (fresh top-off) and water changes (salt-water). Phosphate is commonly found in TAP water and is directly harmless to tank inhabitants in small amounts HOWEVER this is Alagaes favorite food and algae can present all kinds of asthetic and directly harmful impacts to your tank inhabitants.
What type of a filter do I use?
Reverse Osmosis filters (RO) have proven to be the most afforable and cost effective means to remove virtually all unwanted elements from tap water. These units can range from 1 to 6 stages of filtration. Typically Reverse Osmosis filters with 4 or more stages also incorporate a Deionizing filter membrane and are then referred to as Reverse Osmosis/Deionizing filters (RO/DI). I wont get into the details buit the end result is clean, colorless, odorless water.. Ahhh just right
By the way "Deionize" is simply to remove ions from a solution.Aquascape:
What looks best in the early stages of a reef tank may look terrible once your reef has matured and grown. A smart aquascape should provide ample hiding places by way of caves, and partitions while also enabling water to flow over every surface.
Stocking:
Stocking you tank should require careful planning and PATIENCE. Every animal you add to you tank will impact the bilogical balance to some extent. Most animals available in the hobby also have strict living and compatability requirements. DO NOT BUY the pretty fish, coral or invert in the store because you like the looks of it. Get it's name, go home and research the animal ensuring it aligns with the long term goals of your tank. Is it compatable with existing and planned animals? Will it out grow your tank quickly? Does your tank design meet the animals living and THRIVING requirements? Is it proven to be viable in captivity?
Methods of Filtration:
Skimming - Waste particulate referred to as detritus contains water poluting components which cling to Oxygen. Protein skimmers in essence pass small bubbles through water and deposit the clinging particulate matter outside the tank in a collection cup. Their are many different methods protein skimmers accomplish this however two fundamental principles impact the effectiveness of any skimmer: Bubble size and water throughput rates. The smaller the bubbles the larger the surface area, the larger the surface area, the more potential crap clinging. Crap clinging takes time though, so if a skimmer is pushing too much water through it, crap wont have time to cling and the result is a less effective skimmer.
Water Changes - "A solution to polution is dilution"
For many many years aquariasts have sustained water quality by simply removing dirty water and replacing it with new water. If your goal is nutrient removal or even to maintain a balanced water chemistry (i.e., Calcium replentishment ect) water changes can do it. Large frequent water changes are mush more difficult to balance with your existing tank conditions and small water changes may not prove to bring much benefit. Common practice amongst us "changers" is 10-20% water changes bi-weekly, or monthly.Biological - To some extent bilogical filtration takes place in ALL saltwater tanks. In a nut shell biological filtration entails the absorbtion, or use of nutrients by living life-forms. Whether you have substrate, Live rock, macroalgae, or nothing in the tank bilogical filtration is occuring. Beneficial bacteria is what most people refer to as the biological filters and puts most of the "live" in live rock.
________________________________________________________________
Okay, I'm out of breath for the moment. Let me know what y'all think...
If a decent consensus can be reached this could prove a time saving tool in our new Newbie forum
Just a cut and paste job to get things rolling maybe..
Last edited:
