Next, Lets talk what my lighting specs should be

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OldManOfTheSea

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 6, 2006
Messages
172
Location
Hillsborough NC
The tank is 8'x2'x2' and the sump at this time is 48"x18"x17"

This tamk is to be dominated with SPS corals, with some clams.

Light set #1..................................................

4x250w MH.
Two Reefoptic 3 on Icecaps with 14K Phoenix.
Two Aquamedic pendants with 14k Phoenix.
8x54w T5 on Icecaps
4 total Blueplus
2 Aquable specials
2 6500
It went 2 Bluepluses in the front
Then the MHs
1x blue plus
1x6500
1x blue plus
1xAquablue
It drew about 1200 watts at the MH ballasts
And 800 or so watts for the T5s
So around 2000 watts total for 1600 watts of light.
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Here is another lighting on another 240 gal reef tank that I found> Light set #2

Lighting - All main tank lighting is contained within the DIY aluminum light box that measures 8" tall X 15" deep X 8' long. Four Hamilton 250-watt Double Ended 14k Kelvin metal halide bulbs in four PFO mini-pendant fixtures and driven by four IceCap 250 electronic ballasts. Eight 46.5" super-actinic URI VHO bulbs on two circuits drive by two IceCap 660 electronic ballasts, one controlled by a Niche Engineering 500 Dimmer to simulate dawn/dusk. Three 25-watt incandescent blue "party" lights as moonlights. One each 150-watt Iwasaki 6500 Kelvin metal halide bulb on both the sump/refugium and grow-out tank, both driven by IceCap 150 electronic ballasts.
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I can not honestly say I know everything im looking at here, after all, I did say that im no expert when it comes to lighting, all I know is that I need to get the best lighting possible I could afford.

You will see here that I not changed or moved away from that lighting specs (Light set #1) except that I wanted to be able to change a little of something on the #1 pick to have much more blue at cool down, prior to the lights shutting down. I like to get the exact and best of the line ballasts, and would you suggest if I shouldn`t look to buy used on this equipment item..
Being I decided to get a all new tank stand with canopy, im also wondering that if I should do the same in getting the exact type of all glass custom build sump!? It would the once again become more of a reality of the possibly dream SPS reef system. I was thinking around the parameters of 60"x20"x20" which would make the sump around 103 gallons. But on the skimmer side, the water linge I think will be around 8-10" somewhere. I need to go to the link of the manufacture of the skimmer o get more detailed facts on what is the best water line level for the MR4 skimmer.

I will go to Lowes to replace all new tubing lines. I much to talk about with my new aquarium person being that things are changing in staying parts of the tank itself hen it was setup by another, the only thing I would then be keeping of the 240 setup, is only the tank itself, that is if I go head with the new thought to get a all glass custom build sump. I will have to check on what the cost will be with James.

A matter fact, I think I will send James a email of questions a long the lines of doing just that, what extra cost would I be looking at, for im also looking to run me a refugium.

The idea on the above lighting is to get a full complete specs to the lighting I would have, again I need to remind you all that im no idea what im looking at here, other then I would like to have the best possible lighting i could afford to run.

If it be a good idea that if much of the parts become available due to others selling their equipment, I would require links for the complete indentification of each piece of equipment, and please do suggest that if it will be far better to buy simply new. Thanks for your assistance in this matter.

Buddy
 
Last edited:
Couple of thoughts....

The resale value for equipment in this hobby is substantially lower than purchasing new equipment. So if money is a concern, take your time and aquire used lighting. Replacing ballast internals isnt really all that expensive or difficult if you're at all handy, and dealing with non electronic ballasts. I've never messed with fixing/replacing non electrical ballasts, so I have no idea if they are easy or difficult to work on.

If money is not a concern, by all means...buy new.

Have you considered your local electrical rates when choosing lighting? It can have a big effect on your monthly reef cost. If SC's rates are high, look more at T-5's over MH's.

Halide bulbs will need to be replaced at least every 12 months or so. T-5's can go as long as 18 months, and are less expensive per bulb, but you're going to be buying more than one at a time. VHO's go about 6 months to replace.

Regarding your sump, I had one custom made, and have been just buying a glass aquarium, taking it to a glass shop, having glass plates cut to fit to use as baffles, and making my own sumps ever since. Its less expensive. Unless you are going to have specific space/shape requirements, I'd pretty much save my money there....

Keep in mind that this hobby really is an evolution of ideas, techniques, and abilities all of which are constantly in progress. What we "know" today, will be expanded upon/disgarded/improved/debunked in a few years....in addition, you will learn more asyou go, so leave room in your build for expansion and revision later.

Hope that helps,

Nick
 

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