Ozone questions

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Dave 777

Stingray guy
Joined
Nov 27, 2005
Messages
61
Location
Renton WA
Here is my setup.

200 gallon acrylic tank. Want to get a few salt rays.

running an 8-3 Euroreef skimmer.

Coralife U/V

Was told I should run ozone with rays.

Is ozone safe to use on a Euroreef skimmer?

How do I hook it in to the skimmer?

Is ozone really necessary?

Any other advice on Ozone
 
Ozone

Hey i used ozone for years with a euro skimmer and had no problems.But it depends on what type of ozonizer you'er useing dose it have a controller,air dryer,carbon,and reactor?
Ozone is often used by reef aquarists to "purify" their tank's water. To most aquarists this means making the water visually clearer, so they elect to start using ozone to improve clarity. Not everyone notices such improvements, however, and some aquarists have been disappointed.
When ozone is first added to reef aquaria, ORP (oxidation reduction potential) rises. What exactly this means on a molecular level is complicated and not well understood, but it is the expected result of oxidizing the various redox active chemical species in the water. Some aquarists see a big rise in ORP - large enough that they need to control the ozone generator so that the ORP does not rise too high (>450-500 mV). Others see a relatively small rise, and still have ORP in the 300 mV range even after using the generally recommended amount of ozone. Some even find that it remains in the upper 200 mV range. This variability is important for aquarists to keep in mind, and they should not conclude that there is a problem if the ORP remains fairly "low."
In the absence of ozone, my aquarium seems to have an ORP that ranges in the mid- to upper 200 mV range. While I monitored ORP carefully when initiating ozone to be sure not to overdo the addition, such concern was unfounded. Even when adding ozone at full production (100 mg/h as claimed by Aqua Medic; equivalent to about 0.5 mg/h/gallon of display volume or 0.3 mg/h/gallon in the entire system), the ORP never rose above about 335 mV. Even with newly dried desiccant in the air dryer, a freshly cleaned skimmer and ozone added to any of the devices that I used (Coralife ozone reactor, straight into a skimmer, or my tubing reactor), the ORP was never higher than this. Even when used through the skimmer with no activated carbon treatment of the effluent, the ORP was no higher. Consequently, I did not need to use the ozone on a controller.
Was ozone being added? Clearly, yes. The water's ORP exiting my tubing reactor measured 680 mV. I could also detect an ozone/OPO residual of 0.1 - 0.24 ppm chlorine equivalents. So the ozone was having the desired effect on the water in the reactor.
Would the ORP have risen more with additional ozone? Certainly, yes. But using higher amounts of ozone causes more risk of harm from overdose, and it may not further improve the primary reason for using it: water clarity. More ozone might have resulted in more disinfection of the water in the ozone reaction chamber, and possibly a further reduction in dissolved organic levels, but I am not sure that either of those is necessarily beneficial.But whatever you do start with a low mv,to be safe.
 
I plan on getting the Red Sea Aquazone 100 mg with the digital redox controller. I just don't want to damage all the equipment I spent money on.
 
In that case you just use that skimmer and your red sea Aquazone, it dose have a controller on it. So start out with a low mv for the first two weeks and come up slow.but make sure you have some good carbon for the smell,you can try a phos-ban reactor and run some carbon in that near your euro.
 
I have been searching for info on ozone and came across that article already. That article is the reason why I question getting the ozone unit. I have 2 small kids and I don't want them to have any adverse affects from the ozone. I'm leaning to scrapping the ozone idea.
 
Then that may be a reason not to use it. There are ways, shown in the article how to stop ozone from getting out into the room, your concern. However, if the kids can get near the pump, tubes, etc and disconnect them, then it is an is ssue. You would have to be 100% sure none of this can happen, to include all your connections will NOT fall off. Ozone is easy to sell way befoe it gets to toxic levels or does any harm at all. But you out in the yard (couple hrs.), the wife at the store, the kids playing in the house or a tube falls off, what do they known about that smell, ir's sweat = not a good idea. And lets not leave out the cat or dog knocking things off, chewing, etc...
 
The door to my fishroom in the basement is closed because we don't want the kids in there at all when we aren't around. I guess I should look at getting a reactor and fashioning a carbon filter for the water and air. Carbon pretty much takes care of the issue of harmfulness right?
 
what is the difference in carbon from these guys verses from the LFS? Is there a difference? Thanks.
 
C-GAC is C= Catalytic in nature. It is a special processed carbon used to more quickly and effectively remove, ozone oxidants, chlorine and chloramine. It is most common in some RO pre-filters and the water wastewater industry when dealing with sulfide removal. C-GAC is acid washed, pH neutral and water rinsed and is almost dust free.

So why is it better? That is all explained in the term Catalytic. When something is not Catalytic we will say that transformations, reaction rates or adsorption rates are at a certain level. In a Catalytic form these reactions, transformations and absorptions take place at an accelerated rate. In short, it would mean that if you were trying to remove say 2 ppm chlorine and especially chloramine from a certain amount of water passing through normal GAC it may need to make two pass through the GAC to reach 0 ppm. With C-Gac it may only take 1 pass and both using the same amount and type (same carbon source, grain size, pore structure, etc.) of GAC. This assures that very little if any chlorine or chloramines get to say the RO to damge it or very little of the ozone oxidants get into the tank in the form of bromine bleach.
 
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