Peninsula tank overflow options?

[Blazer88]

So I've been wanting to start a 120G peninula tank. I can't get a "normal" reef-ready tank as they have the overflow on the back of the tank which would be in the way. I'm looking for options on how to put an overflow on the end/side of the tank. I'm thinking I can just get a regular tank and drill the side but I'm not sure how to set up the overflows. I would like to stay away from U-tube overflows, I was hoping to setup some type of durso if possible. Any pics or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[LakeEd]

Blazer,

I'm totally clueless as to what a "Peninula" or "Peninsula" tank would be... but I have seen many "Room Divider" tanks, with their overflow's built into one end of the tank, vice the back... and they are are beautiful tanks. Perhaps this is what you are thinking about???

 

[DonW]

If I'm picturing this right (three sided tank) I'd just use a three sided overflow on the end and drill the bottom. Send the return up and over to the other end pushing the water back to the over flow.

Don

 

[Blazer88]

I guess it could be called a room divider tank. Don, how would I be able to drill the tank if it is tempered? I was hoping to use a standard AGA 48x24x24 for this project. Here is a link that someone directed me to which included drilling the side and not bottom, I was hoping to do something like this to the end of the tank:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=473152&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

 

[DonW]

I guess it could be called a room divider tank. Don, how would I be able to drill the tank if it is tempered? I was hoping to use a standard AGA 48x24x24 for this project. Here is a link that someone directed me to which included drilling the side and not bottom, I was hoping to do something like this to the end of the tank:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=473152&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

I dont know much about glass tanks but I just got a 55 and only the sides are tempered. You may want you call AGA and ask.

Don

 

[Blazer88]

Here is a picture of what I want to do. I'm thinking of doing a coast-to-coast overflow one the end of the tank, about 24" across. The thing I would change with this pic is have enough room to use a 90 degree downpipe (PVC elbow) in the overflow to keep noise down. I'm thinking two bulkheads with dual 1" external standpipes would be sufficient. Now I have to decide if I want to drill two extra holes in case I want to run a closed loop setup as well.

 

[LakeEd]

Blazer,

I don't see why your idea there shouldn't work. Unfortunately, I am also unfamiliar with drilling requirements on glass tanks. I think Don's idea of contacting AGA is a super idea for you! They should know the limitations of the tanks they built, and hopefully have some very good information for you about drilling them.

Keep us informed!

By the way... what exactly type of setup are you trying to do here? I'm still not familiar with a Peninsula tank, and would like to understand. Are you referring to a species tank setup for animals from our Peninsula (Pacific North West, Puget Sound) area?

 

[dnjan]

Here is a picture of what I want to do. I'm thinking of doing a coast-to-coast overflow one the end of the tank, about 24" across. The thing I would change with this pic is have enough room to use a 90 degree downpipe (PVC elbow) in the overflow to keep noise down. I'm thinking two bulkheads with dual 1" external standpipes would be sufficient. Now I have to decide if I want to drill two extra holes in case I want to run a closed loop setup as well.

If you use an elbo instead of a T (as in the picture), you will need to drill and tap the top of the elbo to put a small vertical pipe in for venting (to avoid the gurgling). I suggest the small vertical pipe instead of just drilling a hole, because salt creep will quickly block the hole.

And I would use at least 1-1/4" drain bulkheads. 1" is too small, and allows no margin of error for the future (when the drain lines start to accumulate crud, or when a snail makes it over the top of the slotted overflow box).

 

[Blazer88]

Ed, the peninsula tank doesn't have anything to do with what I keep in the tank, it is just how the tank is oriented in my room. Most people keep one long side up against the wall and have that for the back. I'm going to keep the short side up against my wall so I have two large viewable panes of glass. I guess people call it a peninsula tank because of the way you have the rocks in the tank, it looks more like a pensinula rather than a rock wall. I've attached a link that I found on the web to give you an idea (my tank is going to be square and not have a rounded edge though).
http://www.4fishtank.com/new_page_12.htm

Don,
I want to keep the T as in the picture, but attach a PVC elbow on the other side of the bulk head (in the overflow box) so the only air that enters the standpipe is through the hole in the T. I was told that is the best way to keep the noise down. I attached a crappy picture of what I mean. How much flow can I get through a 1.25" bulkhead? I'm only planning 700-800 gph since I don't need a ton of flow through my sump (Mag 9.5 as return since I already have one). I just ghouth that dual 1" may be adequate but that is a detail I can work later. Thanks for everyones opinion.

 

[LakeEd]

Blazer,

Okay... gotyas! I've always called that type of tank setup a "room divider"... but now that I fully understand, I appreciate the info!

I think the elbow would work nicely, as long as you have at least the diameter of the pipe free space under that elbow (which isn't there in your current picture) for adequate suction area. As for flow... I would think 2-1" overflows will be more than enough for a 900gph flow rate, and you should be just fine.

 

[dnjan]

Don,
I want to keep the T as in the picture, but attach a PVC elbow on the other side of the bulk head (in the overflow box) so the only air that enters the standpipe is through the hole in the T. I was told that is the best way to keep the noise down. I attached a crappy picture of what I mean. How much flow can I get through a 1.25" bulkhead? I'm only planning 700-800 gph since I don't need a ton of flow through my sump (Mag 9.5 as return since I already have one). I just ghouth that dual 1" may be adequate but that is a detail I can work later. Thanks for everyones opinion.

So you would have the elbo pointing down, and water would flow up into the elbo from underneath.

My first thought is that you are kind of defeating the surface skimming concept. Anything floating on the surface (protien film, etc) would need to flow down, underwater, to get into the elbo. I really don't think it is necessary.

As far as capacity, on my son's tank we put in a single 1-1/4" bulkhead. (20-gal tank). We needed to throttle down a SEN700 (similar capacity to a mag 7-whatever) to avoid overflowing the bulkhead. I really wouldn't be comfortable with two 1" bulkheads for a mag9.5

And actually, I am not really comfortable with any drain bulkheads smaller than 1-1/4", just because you never know what may try to get down your drain. Excess drain capacity is cheap insurance.

 

[LakeEd]

I did a little searching here, and found the "Recommended Minimum Drain/Overflow Size Calculator" here on Reef Frontiers (it linked to Reef Central);
http://reefcentral.com/calc/drain.php

For a 950gph flow... it recommends 1.27" minimum drain pipe diameter.

True, your having 2-1" drains would be more than that... but as Don mentioned above... "excess drain capacity is cheap insurance."

Now... if there are other limitations (glass is already drilled, allowing only those 2-1" drains)... then you have to go with what you already have. But, if you're are still in a planning phase, I would go larger if possible.

 

[Blazer88]

So you would have the elbo pointing down, and water would flow up into the elbo from underneath.

My first thought is that you are kind of defeating the surface skimming concept. Anything floating on the surface (protien film, etc) would need to flow down, underwater, to get into the elbo. I really don't think it is necessary.

As far as capacity, on my son's tank we put in a single 1-1/4" bulkhead. (20-gal tank). We needed to throttle down a SEN700 (similar capacity to a mag 7-whatever) to avoid overflowing the bulkhead. I really wouldn't be comfortable with two 1" bulkheads for a mag9.5

And actually, I am not really comfortable with any drain bulkheads smaller than 1-1/4", just because you never know what may try to get down your drain. Excess drain capacity is cheap insurance.

I agree, it would be cheap insurance to have a little extra capacity. And I'm confused about the surface skimming concept. Every durso pipe I've seen has had a 90 degree elbow that points down (that's how I currently have it setup on my AGA 65). Would that really affect the amount of organics that reach into my sump? And am I'd glad I was able to clear things up for you Ed. I've always thought of this design as a peninsula since it's not large enough to actually divide my room (I can only ask for so much from my wife, lol).

 

[LakeEd]

hehehe Our better halfs ALWAYS give us limitations. *evil grin*

I believe, the overflow into the box you will be taking the suction from will be doing your surface skimming for you, and having that elbow is perfect. It is, after all, a standard durso style overflow you are talking about... just with the standpipe being external to the overflow box.

 

[dnjan]

You can always stick the elbo on inside the overflow box later, but I don't think it will be necessary if you have the T outside the tank providing proper venting. Your biggest source of noise will probably be where your drain water enters the sump.

 

[Kshack]

Blazer,

I have that overflow on my tank. 60X36X25. You WILL need the elbow in the overflow because without it you will hear the sound of sucking air (rather loud). The elbow gets the water intake low enough the air will not enter. Also, the "T" outside is necessry to tune the sustem. Without it there will be a siphon created and repeated flushing. You will need to drill the top of the "T" to get just the right amount of air into the system.

Ken

 

[Reefdaddy1]

I guess it could be called a room divider tank. Don, how would I be able to drill the tank if it is tempered? I was hoping to use a standard AGA 48x24x24 for this project. Here is a link that someone directed me to which included drilling the side and not bottom, I was hoping to do something like this to the end of the tank:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=473152&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

I have talked extensivley to AGA, they told me, ( truth be told) that they only temper the bottoms of thier larger tanks unless specified with markings. Its plain as day as they told me. I drilled my 120 no problem on the backside. It went really well.

 

[onehawksfan]

I have a Mag7 return from my sump with two 1" overflow drains and it works, but seems close to capacity. A friend of mine has a Mag9 with two 1" overflows and he's having to throttle down the pump to keep the noise down. Trust me - you'll want to make your drains as quiet as possible! Nobody likes the sound of a flushing toilet when your trying to relax! I believe reefdaddy to be correct about the sides not being tempered by AGA and have read that on reefcentral. Good luck and post pics.