PH question

[MarcusCarcus71]

My PH is off the chart, I used a dip stick, I used seatest, I used Hagen PH testers

here are specs

1.023
akalinity 3 different testers
110 125 dip stick over 300
Nitrate nitrite ammonia perfect
phos 0
calcium 425 to 450


65 gallon with 2 250 D/E 10K and 2 55 actinic PCS
hang on overflow with amiricale 75 sump

100lbs live rock
5acro frags
7inch derasa clam
some montipora
some zoos which are at the bottom and have been half open since this problem

I added 75lbs of figi live rock 2 months ago.

I used to add tech CB part A nad B every 2 to 3 days, I stopped due to PH problem.

I started doing 5 gallon water changes every 2 days, I have always used RO water too.

any help would be great. ??Should I use the PH down stuff?? heard mixed things

 

[wrightme43]

Do a large water change, Like say 50% that will help alot.

 

[liveforphysics]

I assume you mean off the chart in the hydroxide side of the scale.

pH simple means disolved H+ ions in a solution, pH literally stands for perecent hydrogen ions.

"Though a pH value has no unit, it is not an arbitrary scale; the number arises from a definition based on the activity of hydrogen ions in the solution.

The formula for calculating pH is:


[H+] denotes the activity of H+ ions (or more accurately written, [H3O+], the equivalent hydronium ions), measured in moles per litre (also known as molarity). In dilute solutions (like river or tap water) the activity is approximately equal to the concentration of the H+ ion.

Log10 denotes the base-10 logarithm, and pH therefore defines a logarithmic scale of acidity. For example, a solution with pH=8.2 will have an [H+] activity (concentration) of 10−8.2 mol/L, or about 6.31 × 10−9 mol/L; a solution with an [H+] activity of 4.5 × 10−4 mol/L will have a pH value of −log10(4.5 × 10−4), or about 3.35.

In aqueous solution at standard temperature and pressure (STP), a pH of 7 indicates neutrality (i.e. pure water) because water naturally dissociates into H+ and OH− ions with equal concentrations of 1×10−7 mol/L. A lower pH value (for example pH 3) indicates increasing strength of acidity, and a higher pH value (for example pH 11) indicates increasing strength of alkalinity.

Neutral pH is not exactly 7; this would imply that the H+ ion concentration is exactly 1×10−7 mol/L, which is not the case. The value is close enough, however, for neutral pH to be 7.00 to three significant figures, which is near enough for most people to assume it is exactly 7. In nonaqueous solutions or non-STP conditions, the pH of neutrality may not even be close to 7. Instead it is related to the dissociation constant for the specific solvent used. (Note also that pure water, when exposed to the atmosphere, will take in carbon dioxide, some of which reacts with water to form carbonic acid and H+, thereby lowering the pH to about 5.7.)

Most substances have a pH in the range 0 to 14, although extremely acidic or basic substances may have pH < 0, or pH > 14."



Basically, if you tell me the size of your tank, and aproximately where your pH is, I could calculate exactly how much CO2 you need to bubble into your tank to set your pH at whatever level you want.

I personally wouldnt waterchange, but thats just me.

PS, dont blindly add additives to your tank.

 

[Scooterman]

That was through liveforphysics. Marcus bring a water sample to your lfs & see if they can test it also I don't understand how everything wouldn't die off at such a high ph swing, you may want to try saliflert test kits also they tend to give a little more accuracy.

 

[NaH2O]

Welcome to Reef Frontiers!!!

I would urge you to not add anything, including CO2, until you know what your level truely is, so you can work on bringing it down. What is the pH of your salt mix (measure prior to a water change)? This might help to see if your test kits are accurate, and to see what the pH is in the water you are changing with. Has your pH in the tank changed at all with your water changes? Do you know anyone close by that has a pH monitor that can let you borrow it, just to get a good reading (provided the probe is calibrated and calibrated correctly)? Other than the zoos, how do your inhabitants look?

This is a good article, and covers different methods of lowering pH, including vinegar additions. Read through it, so you can have an idea of what is going on with pH using various methods to lower it. High pH: Causes and Cures by Randy Holmes-Farley

 

[steve-s]

I would think this is a test kit issue, "dip sticks" being among the worst and least accurate. With your alkalinity being so low with two of the results, high "off the chart" pH seems somewhat unlikely unless using something heavy in borate.

I wouldn't bother taking samples of your water to the LFS to verify pH. It won't be accurate. Instead, I would suggest taking all your test kits. You can then verify the results of your kits against the ones they use hopefully being more accurate. Chances are pretty good that's the issue.

What color do you get on the pH results?

Are you also making sure you wait a few hours after you dosed the Part A/B before testing? Kent 2 part can spike the pH immediately after use more than most.

Cheers
Steve

 

[sandybaydave]

Test Kits

I don't know about test strips but I have recently experienced inaccuracy with RedSea brand PH test kits. I performed the test exactly to directions and got a reading in excess of 8.6, at which point I became a little concerned and dug out my laborotory grade PH meter and found my PH to be just 8.38! Just for #@$%# and giggles I tried using a Salifert brand kit I have and found the results were very close to the reading I got with my meter, so I would stick to the Salifert brand in my personal opinion. My meter is quite expensive and requires a rather long calibration procedure which precludes it from being used by your average hobbyist, but as I said the Salifert kit was quite accurate when judged against the meter so I give this brand my thumbs up at least on this particular test. Who knows maybe you just get a bad batch sometimes...

Just my two cents.

 

[Sk8r]

I second Salifert. Easy to read. Strips tend to be very subjective: not everybody sees color the same way, but a total color change yes/no event as per Salifert vial drops is a lot easier to spot, and the dropping-syringe holds precise lines you can read for an unambiguous result.
PH meters have to be calibrated, btw, before they will read accurately.
And are you using ro/di water? Tap water can't be trusted: it can vary unexpectedly when some city tech decides to add alum or some other ingredient; and our city well water back in Oklahoma had arsenic.