Plumbing help pricing

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What type of plumbing help do you need? I'm sure we can guide you through here and you don't have to pay any one. Save that extra cash to get some nice equipment to sustain your system.
 
And learn by our mistakes. I live in your neck of the woods and would be more then glad to help out. I am 2 miles behind the Safeway as the crow flies in Autumn Crest.

Mark
 
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And learn by our mistakes. I live in your neck of the woods and would be more then glad to help out. I am 2 miles behind the Safeway as the crow flies in Autumn Crest.

Mark

I posted some plumbing things I learned doing my system in your other threads. I'll reply here. You should be able to do it without paying someone.

Draw it out well. When you glue the pipes together, make sure you use a cleaner first before the glue (you can ask in the plumbing department at lowes or something.)

Anyway, its pretty easy once you have it all laid out. The forums are a great source of info. I check all the time so can try to answer questions fast if you post them (although I'll be out of town from tues to sun, so away from forums.)

Use a lot of unions, and then you can change parts whenever you want. I saw a recommendation for 1.5" line, which is probably good, but if you had 2 1" drains you should be fine, and the parts are more standard, and a lot cheaper (for valves, unions, etc.) Anyway, you can check out what I wrote on the other thread.

rob
 
I agree with ROSCO...The plumbing is not that hard..Think ahead..ball valves are your friend..I made a HUGE mistake ...if running an external pump,make sure it is plumbed so it can be easily replaced...Rosco and myteemouse are great for advise..They have helped me out lots!!!..Good luck...Shane
 
Ok, it seems unanimous that I should give it a go. Plus I feel better knowing that I can get help if needed.

I am gathering pieces tonight.
 
Ok, it seems unanimous that I should give it a go. Plus I feel better knowing that I can get help if needed.

I am gathering pieces tonight.

As to the huge mistake of a non removable pump....

I put a union maybe 16 inches above the pump, so the entire pump with plumbing in removable. On the pump side of the union, I put a hose barb, then a short piece of PVC hose to connect the pump to the plumbing. This makes it so if there is any pump vibration, your entire plumbing doesn't vibrate (because of the short piece of flexable tube). Then, if I want to remove the pump, I unscrew the union, and can take the 1/2union-hosebarb-flexible PVC-pump assembly out, and easily put it on the table for maintenance, etc.

if that makes sense...

Oh, and I guess this isn't for an external pump, but internal. I just have it sitting in my sump return tank. Not sure what your plan is.

rob
 
As to the huge mistake of a non removable pump....

I put a union maybe 16 inches above the pump, so the entire pump with plumbing in removable. On the pump side of the union, I put a hose barb, then a short piece of PVC hose to connect the pump to the plumbing. This makes it so if there is any pump vibration, your entire plumbing doesn't vibrate (because of the short piece of flexable tube). Then, if I want to remove the pump, I unscrew the union, and can take the 1/2union-hosebarb-flexible PVC-pump assembly out, and easily put it on the table for maintenance, etc.

if that makes sense...

Oh, and I guess this isn't for an external pump, but internal. I just have it sitting in my sump return tank. Not sure what your plan is.

rob
good points, I do have a union on my current return and will plan To do the same this time.

Looking for recommendations for the return. Quiet is key. What do I need something around 900-1000gph?
 
The pump I just got is an ehiem 1262 (I think thatts the right model number) it is very quiet, supposedly runs very cool (for in sump install) and is very efficient (80 watts I believe). It puts out 850-900 gph, which comes out to 650-700 gph at my current head pressure. Very happy with it. Got from marine depot for $90 or something like that.

I think a 900-1000 gph pump sounds about right
 
The only thing I can add is if I did mine over again I would order gate valves instead of using ball valves. They are just way easier to do fine adjustments with. Building is part of the fun I asked a million questions on here when I did my plumbing and I got mine figured out. So don't be worried to ask any questions and good luck.

Brian
 
As Bosco said.... Gate valves for flow control. Ball valves on returns and Unions.. Unions, unions. Make sure you can remove the pumps for any type of repair or servicing. You don’t need to use Sch 80 (but it looks good). Flex pipe (spa flex) works great. Make sure you use the right glue (flex can use a different glue), primer all pieces, and twist the glued pieces together and hold tight for about 30 sec. Don’t let them pop out. And give some time for the glue to dry.

One thing I looked for was a clear primer (cleaner). Just don’t like the purple ring.

Gate valves
http://www.hardwareandtools.com/icat/gatevalves/

and Ace hardware might have them
 
Arghh, just did the first shopping spree to McLendons and got home to find out the bulkheads are too big for the holes.

The 3/4 fits in what should be the 1" and I imagine a 1/2 would fit in the returns. Does anyone else have bulkheads? HD and Lowes do not.
 
I have only found Sch 8 bulkheads at Mclendons in our area. I have some of the black ABS 1" ones you are welcome to have... I cracked 3 trying to tighten them up. Thats why I drop down to 3/4" Sch 80.

You can also check around for a fish pond store.
 

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