Power compact sockets

Reef Aquarium & Tank Building Forum

Help Support Reef Aquarium & Tank Building Forum:

shawn

fish pimp
Joined
Apr 5, 2004
Messages
58
Location
seattle
Does anyone know where to get square or straight pin power compact sockets?
 
You can get them from www.ahsupply.com. You will have to call him because they are not listed on the site. I have bought numerous times from him and the stuff is really nice. BTW he sell the straight pin.

Brian
 
If you are building your own setup, you can easily solder 4 little wires on, or if useing IS (instant start) ballasts, you only need to solder to 2 of the 4 pins (because IS doesnt use the end heaters).

It may be too much of an inconvience for some people to have to de-solder and re-solder 2-4 wires per bulb every 12-18months, but at least for me, the 15mins of work is worth the money saved. You have a much better connection that isnt prone to galvonic corrosion from soldered bulb ends as well, no pressure/surface electron flow weak link in the connection to make a voltage differnce to enable the corrosion.

DSCF1240.sized.jpg


The hazy look over the red wires on the bulb going into the water is silicone that I used to make the bulb safe for complete underwater use (now just being used for partial under water use to supply light for cheato more effectively by not just lighting the surface).

I know this isnt for everybody, and you might not be interested at all, but just incase you are working with a budget divided between many hobbies, you might be interested.
 
It has no detrimental effects at all besides he potential to make the tank too warm if the bulb is something that makes a lot of heat. I soldered the leads on a 400watt halide bulb, siliconed the socket end and submerged it. It really really improved lighting by not haveing the critical angle of reflection concerns to waste a bunch of light. However, the poor tanks temp went to about 86deg in just a few hours, so I had to remove it. With standard complact florecent bulbs, the heat issue is really small and I have personally never had them show any raise in tank temp.
 
liveforphysics said:
I soldered the leads on a 400watt halide bulb, siliconed the socket end and submerged it. It really really improved lighting by not haveing the critical angle of reflection concerns to waste a bunch of light. However, the poor tanks temp went to about 86deg in just a few hours, so I had to remove it.

You did what???

Maybe you can try putting your tongue in the mogul socket and turn the ballast on. Let me know what happens.

Talk about book smart and no common sense.

Don't get me started on that VorTech powerhead thread you started. Your just a baby and truely have no idea of what you're getting into. Give us all a break and stuff a sock in it.

DD
 
That sound like a not to bad idea just soldering them on. I think I'll try that for the fact that I can't find any pc sockets at any lfs's.
 
dapperdan said:
You did what???

Maybe you can try putting your tongue in the mogul socket and turn the ballast on. Let me know what happens.

Talk about book smart and no common sense.

Don't get me started on that VorTech powerhead thread you started. Your just a baby and truely have no idea of what you're getting into. Give us all a break and stuff a sock in it.

DD

C'mon Dan,

Ad hominem arguments really aren't needed. Criticize constructively, but not this way.

Liveforphysics methods are unconventional, and if he did this in a tank with livestock, too risky for my taste. I would hope that he tested the waterproofing of his silicone in the sink or tub.

Underwater lights are mass produced and sold all over the world. My local swimming pool wouldn't be the same without them. Just because he choose to build one, rather than buy one, doesn't rate your attack.
 
Thanks NeuroDoc

Dapperdan, my halide ballasts, which i built myself, would only be applying 7v (voltage for starting element warmup) if they only felt the resistance of 1cm of saliva on my tounge. That creates a mild acidy/sour tingle from the electrolisis droping pH on one side of the electrode.

I assume this effect is what you intended, as adviseing fatal tounge shocks would be very poor taste (literally).

Running halides underwater is nothing new at all...

I agree with you that I dont use COMMON sence, I think my sence is quite uncommon, and generally backed by sound science and experience, which COMMON sence very often is lacking.

Secondly, I see following a status-quo or known effective method for anything(that you have a real interest in, like a hobby) serves no purpose beyond your own temporary minor amusement. Following the status-quo never contributes something unique, or improves anything at all, unless its by an accident. Even then, the accident is generally caused by a deviation from the status-quo procedure. Mad scientists are who you owe all the comforts of your life to. Without people trying new and crazy (often very dangerous) methods, you wouldnt be enjoying the electricity the computer (which of course wouldnt exist) you are trying to use as a tool to offend me.

But, now we've gotten this thread way off on a tangent, and I'm sorry for that. I hope that the person requireing bulbs to be connected to the ballast has received adquate info to meet their needs with whatever option they elect.
 
Back
Top