QT for leopards....

[AquaKnight]

I know this is a fairly touchy subject, but looking for some input on QT'ing leopard wrasses. Bottom line is I have to QT them, I can't take a risk again.

I have a couple scenarios, the leading one, IMO, is to intro the fish into QT and then began a hypo or copper treatment a day or two later. Copper for two weeks (once full strength) or hypo for 3 weeks (if my numbers are off, lemme know). Then do a 100% WC to eliminate copper over about a day or raise hypo levels over 2 days, then intro into the display. This is obviously still a risk, but maybe a happy medium to a full treatment or none at all? I like that copper blanket treats and does more then just hypo for Ich. Though these are sensitive fish, I am unsure of the damage copper could do.

Or other secondary scenario is to wait it out for about a week, week and half and observe. If the fish come around to eat well, I would not treat until/if an ailment presented itself? Or if they continue to not eat, begin treating and hope they finish the treatment before they expire and can make it into the display?

I would perform a bit more then typical WC schedule since I would try and feed heavier then normal, trying to get the leopards to eat, brine, cyclopeeze, worms, mysis, all enriched of course. I plan to do two leopards, for sure a small bipartitus (divided/bluestar) and a large male potter's or large ornatus. The options for QT are a 12gal that has been established since Christmas, or I could set up a 25gal from the 12's parts. Not sure which. The 12 has had a 2"-3" silica sandbed for about 3 weeks. I also like the 12 for it's controlablility, as just a 5gal change is 50% and I would be doing that daily. Though obviously the 25 is more spacious, especially if I have to seperate the two.

While searching I did find this thread here which mentioned keeping them together during QT.
http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18513

One issue I am concerned about is the leopards 'break-in' peroid where they go into hiding in the sand for 2-5days. I am worried that a 'double break-in' between QT and intro into the main tank, would be too much?

 

[leebca]

All marine fishes can be accommodated in a quarantine process. There's no reason not to.

These wrasses are specialized feeders and thus, they need a quarantine not only for disease but to train them to eat prepared foods.

Treating without a cause is not very good fish husbandry. I have two exceptions because of the high probability that certain fishes have certain diseases/pathogens associated with their handling.

These wrasses prefer a DSB due to their habits. In the QT that can be pure silica. You don't want any carbonate substrate, rock, etc. If you think it is pure silica test it. Add some household vinegar to it and if it is silica it should not react (fizz or give off a gas).

Train the fish to eat prepared foods as you have listed, but don't treat the fish for any disease it does not exhibit. Keep in quarantine the full recommended 6 weeks.

I would not be concerned about the second break in period. If the QT is handled properly, the fish has acclimated to captive life and will adjust the second time around.

As to both of them being together in the same QT -- I would not do this. Two QTs are in order. You don't want mating issues or competition from a potential mate in the QT. This interferes with your desire to have the fish acclimate quickly and pay attention to you and the 'training.' They should be introduced into the main display together, but not kept in the QT together.

Two dither fishes (such as small Chromis) make for good dither fish for these wrasses. I keep a couple 'standing' (or swimming) by -- disease-free and brave eaters -- to show the newcomer how and where to get its food.

Follow the QT procedure and weave into it the recommendations from this post: Pod Eaters