Question about Quarantine set-up

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krisfal

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Usually when I set up my QT I use some display tank water and some SW I have made. I usually target the same Salinity as my display (1.025-1.026). However, I have read that it is less stressful for the fish to be around 1.016.

I now have the third fish I have used the QT process on and he has shown up with ich after almost 2 weeks in the QT. Of the 3 fish I have QT'd 2 have had ich (the third had already been treated for ich at a fellow reefers before I acquired it, I QT'd just for insurance). So I am wondering if, as it seems, it is highly probable I will be treating for ich, and using hyposalinity to do this, would it make sense to just start the tank at a salinity of 1.016 instead of 1.025? I figure this would save on salt for water changes, take less time to get to Hypo if and when needed, and if by chance everything was fine after 6 weeks (fine as in I didn't have to treat for anything) then I could slowly bring up the salinity to match the display in preperation of the transfer.

Thoughts?
 
It is less stressful to have the fish at a lower salinity, however, it's very stressful to take them from 1.025 and dump them in or quickly acclimate them to 1.016. I'd recommend starting out your QT at the same salinity as your display tank, with all fresh SW, none from display. Then lower the salinity over a period of time. I'd also lower it to 1.009 as 1.016 won't kill Ich. I'd also recomment 8 weeks instead of 6. No matter now many weeks, make sure to keep them at 1.009 for 4 week AFTER ALL visible signs of Ich are gone.
 
There is much to consider.

The suggested approach assumes that Marine Ich will be the only problem you/the fish will have to deal with. In low salinity, many other treatments can't be done. In low salinity the affect of drugs that cure in normal salinity, can kill. You may find, for instance that in low salinity the fish show Marine Velvet which you need to immediately treat with copper at normal salinity, but you can't give the fish treatment for 5 days while you slowly increase the salinity. Most fish would die of Marine Velvet during that time.

Treat only what you find and when you find it. (Three exceptions noted in my recommended quarantine process). Your diligence in using the quarantine process seems to have paid off quite well for you. I'd say it shows very good forethought and consideration for the marine life in your care.

Lowering the salinity to 1.016 is a means to help the fish conserve energy. But again, it should not be coupled with some treatments and the recommendation of treat only what you find and when you find it is what is in the best interest of the fish.

Putting fish into a quarantine process at conditions of your marine system will help show up problems within the weeks allowed. By partially treating or making it easy for the fish to fight something off in the standard 6 week quarantine, you may actually be letting some other disease get by that didn't show itself (to you) when it should have, during the quarantine.

 
Gotcha, makes sense! Thanks for the reply.

What would be the minimum salinity for copper treatment?
 
Lee

Can you provide a source which supports your concerns about copper not being compatible with hypo salinity. When I raised this issue with Seachem yrs ago the tech I talked to said using Cupramine in a hypo tank would pose no problem.

Thanks.
 
I don't have ownership of the technical knowledge. However, in the '70's copper and copper compounds used in lowered salinities was absorbed into fish tissues before the fish expired.

A hyposaline solution is difficult to control the pH which affects the form of copper and solubility of copper complexes. I'd venture the Seachem position would assume the water to be in the normal pH range. But I have not found that to be a reasonable assumption with hobbyists working in a hyposaline solution.

Lastly, why risk it. Hyposalinity only kills the one parasite and copper kills it and more. Seachem would prefer you to buy the product rather than treat fish for free.
 

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