Re-curing live rock

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matts125

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Well now that my cube is down I want all my Live Rock to be perfect again before I set up a new tank, it has traces of bryopsis and some patches of dense turf algae as well as small amounts of bubble algae. what is the most effective way of cleansing all this rock of the algae? I have a 150 gallon rubermaid container so I have plenty of room.. Keep in mind I do not want to kill this rock.

I was thinking about scrubbing the rock and keeping the water very cleen like new. and run a skimmer on it too. probably will take a couple months I am sure.

any other ideas?

Matt
 
DonW started a great thread, awhile back, about the use of Muratic Acid to sterilize and open up the pores. Sounded very good to me. I might actually try it on my next tank. Speaking of DonW, has anyone seen him lately? Wonder how he's doing.

got the link by chance?
 
If you dont want to kill the rock and have a few months time do the cooking method. Muriatic acid will clean the rock but it will kill everything.
 
my rock has lots of nice sponge and tunicutes and other great stuff to so I do not want to kill it..
 
Cooking is just a slang term for rock in prolonged darkness with a pump, skimmer and a heater. I think it is preferable if you like sponges, worms, and other flora and fauna
 
Cooking the rock will not sterilize all plant spores, but the little bit remaining can be later controlled with cleaner crew. Most large colonies of plants will be irradicated, but thisl starts a nitrogen cycle and a lot of the other life will die during the process.
 
When I switched over tanks last summer I laid the pieces in the driveway and pressure washed the tops of the rocks that had the algea on them. It then went into a garbage can full of water and 18 hours later I did a 95% WC because the ammonia was spiking. That was basically the end of it. I lost very little life in the process. Well, a fish that slipped through the fence but none of the softies that were attached died. I also had two RBTA's that went through part of the process as well. A week later all of the tests were reading zero and I was aquascaping the new tank.


Of course..... new tank, new chemical balance, flow, lighting ect. etc. A whole new set of algeas Ive never seen in three years. I added 100 pounds of dead rock to the mix and apparently added some spores.
 
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I am giving some thought to the muratic acid, my rock has 30 years of coraline on it so it has lost its porus surface. I am very worried about the cycling process after though, although I do have a 150 gallon water trouth that I can do the whole process in over several months if need be...

looking for more advice from experience on the acid dip, anyone?

matt
 
Cooking is just a slang term for rock in prolonged darkness with a pump, skimmer and a heater. I think it is preferable if you like sponges, worms, and other flora and fauna

Not exactly. Cooking rock is when you place the rock in fresh clean saltwater in the dark and allow the bacteria to eat any nutrient in/on the rock. You dont need a skimmer or heater (within reason) but what you do need to do is a 100% water change every week and blow all the rocks off before this water change. When the rock stops producing detritus it should be purged of excess nutrients
 
Not exactly. Cooking rock is when you place the rock in fresh clean saltwater in the dark and allow the bacteria to eat any nutrient in/on the rock. You dont need a skimmer or heater (within reason) but what you do need to do is a 100% water change every week and blow all the rocks off before this water change. When the rock stops producing detritus it should be purged of excess nutrients

Yes, exactly. There are more than one ways of curing "cooking" live rock.We are not talking about growing some new exotic plant eating bacteria, we are allowing the plants to die in the dark and the bacteria to consume it as in nitrification cycle. I prefer a heater such that the bacteria that will be living in my tank is the same as what is growing in the rock. You prefer water changes, I prefer skimmers. Not a matter of right wrong, a matter of preferences.

http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6927-cooking-live-rock.html
 
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Yes, exactly. There are more than one ways of curing "cooking" live rock.We are not talking about growing some new exotic plant eating bacteria, we are allowing the plants to die in the dark and the bacteria to consume it as in nitrification cycle. I prefer a heater such that the bacteria that will be living in my tank is the same as what is growing in the rock. You prefer water changes, I prefer skimmers. Not a matter of right wrong, a matter of preferences.

http://www.talkingreef.com/forums/general-marine-discussions/6927-cooking-live-rock.html

Then you are not discribing "cooking rock". your discribing re-curing the rock, not the same thing.

This is cooking rock

Here is the process.

The purpose of "cooking" your rocks is to have the bacteria consume all (or as much) organic material and PO4 stored on, and in, the rock as possible.
The first step to this is commitment.
You have to be willing to remove your rock from the tank.
It doesn't have to be all at once, but I feel if you are going to do this do it all. In stages if that is easier but make sure that all of it gets done.
The new environment you are creating for your rock is to take it from an algal driven to a bacterial driven system.
In order to do this, the rock needs to be in total darkness to retard and eventually kill the algae's on the rock and to give the bacteria time to do the job.
So basically you need tubs to hold the rock.
Equipment needed.
1. Dedication.
2. Tubs to cook rock in. And an equal amount of tubs to hold the rock during waterchanges.
3. A few powerheads.
4. Plenty of buckets.
5. A smug feeling of superiority that you are taking it to "the next level."
6. Saltwater, enough made up to follow the instructions below and to replenish your tank after removing rocks.

Here are the steps:
1. Get into your head and accept the fact you will be making lots of salt water if you aren't lucky enough to have access to filtered NSW.
2. Explain to significant other what is going on so they don't flip out. This process can take up to 2 months. Prepare them in advance so he/she can mark it on the calendar and that they won't nag about it until that date arrives.
3. Setup a tub(s) where the rock is to be cooked. Garages are great for this.
4. Make up enough water to fill tub(s) about halfway and around 5-7 buckets about 60% full.
5. Remove all the rock you want to cook at this stage. (The rock can be removed piece by piece until you are done.) I suggest shutting off the circulation beforehand to minimize dust storms.
6. Take the first piece of rock and dunk it, swish it, very, very well in the first bucket. Then do it again in the 2nd bucket, then the third.
7. Place rock in the tub.
8. Repeat steps 6 & 7 to every piece of rock you want to cook at this time. The reason I suggested 5-7 buckets of water will be evident quickly...as the water quickly turns brown.
9. Place powerhead(s) in the tub and plug in. Position at least one powerhead so that it agitates the surface of the water pretty well. This is to keep the water oxygenated. You can use an air pump for additional oxygenation if you wish. Only one powerhead per tub is needed. Remember the powerheads main responsibility is the oxygenation of the water.
10. Cover the tub. Remember, we want TOTAL darkness.
11. Empty out buckets, restart circulation on main tank.
12. Wait.
13. During the first couple of weeks it is recommended to do a swishing and dunking of the rocks twice a week.
What this entails is to make up enough water to fill up those buckets and the tub the rock is in.
First, lay out your empty tub(s) and fill buckets the same as before.
Then, uncover tub with the rock in it. Take a rock and swish it in the tub it's in to knock any easy to get off junk.
Then, swish it thru the 3 buckets again, and place in the empty tub..
Repeat for all your rocks.
Then empty the tub that all the rocks were cooking in, take it outside and rinse it out with a hose.
Place tub back where it was, fill with new saltwater, add rocks and powerheads, and cover.
Wait again until the next water change.
You will be utterly amazed at how much sand, silt, detritus is at the bottom of the tub and every bucket. It is amazing.
At times the stench was so strong I gagged.

How it works:
Some FAQ's.
When re-introducing the rock to my tank, a month or two from now, should I do that in parts to help minimize any cycling effect(s)...if there are any?
I never have. Really after a very short while, the ammonium cycle has been established. That's not what you're worry about though, it's the stored phosphates and that you have to wait it out.
When they are producing very little detritus - you'll know - then I would use them all at once.
Would running Carbon filtration and/or a PO4 reducing media help/hurry/hinder the process?
I wouldn't fool with it. You don't want the detritus to sit there long enough to rot, release water soluble P again. You want to take it out while it's still locked up in that bacterial detritus.
I would say that 85% of my exposed rock had Bryopsis (hair algae) covering it.
There isn't a single visible strand on any rocks my tank now.
Remember, the key is patience. Let this process run its course.
And a few last minute tidbits I remembered.
Your coralline will die back, recede etc.
My thoughts on this are GREAT!
Now my rock is more porous for additional pods, mysids, worms etc.
Coralline will grow back.
Throughout this process the sponges, and pods on my rock have not died off.
Every time I do a water change they are there and plentiful.
Remember, once you place your rock back into your tank you will need a specialized cleanup crew.
I recommend Astrea's and Cerith's, 2 to 1.
-Astrea's are great at harvesting algae.
-Cerith's are great at harvesting other algae - and - astrea poop.
-Cerith's will make the astrea poop easier for you to harvest with a skimmer.


But remember, you do not need to run a barebottom tank to benefit from rock "cooking".
hth,
Sean
 
Here's another good article, by Ronald L. Shimek, that explains how effective live rock is at actual filtration. The article really surprised me. It does go into detail about how the gluing or attachment of frags, coralline and such will lesson the rock's ability to filter.
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rs/feature/index.php


Yes & a sterile rock could potentially house more bacteria or It could house a lot of things you never wanted in the first place, It will provide a home for whatever gets to it first & most probably dominate it, so caution is extra necessary. You should seed the new rock with what you want & you can diversify it as much as you like.
 
I would say that 85% of my exposed rock had Bryopsis (hair algae) covering it.
There isn't a single visible strand on any rocks my tank now

hmmm..since I stopped the Tech M treatments my bryopsis has come back and is unsightly..still debating if I want to try this method..I also heard place the rock in the freezer for 2 days kills byopsis as well..I just want to stuff GONE !!
 
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