Ro/Di problem

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ronj

Blue Tang
Joined
Nov 28, 2005
Messages
4,490
Location
Destin,Fl
i just got my unit plugged up ...how much water should be coming out?...i drained all the air out of the lines and it is just trickling out...now it says to let the tank fill for 3 hours....do i have to sit here and wait 3 hours to turn it off???< also, it i supposed to make 100 or 110gpd...i don't see how it will ever make that much coming out at this rate...is that normal??? do i need a booster pump???
 
It depends. Do you have a auto shut off valve?
Its normal to have very slow flow at first. Especially if you didnt run the three prefilters into a bucket to clean them. I have found that bypassing the ro membrane, and just running the three prefilters for a little while helps alot to make things last longer and work better. Its not in the instructions but it works well for me.
 
It takes time to fill the membrane, it may take days before it it producing the proper amount, also check your inlet water pressure, you should have optimal around 80PSI otherwise production will be lower. Let it run for hours to saturate it well.
 
i just checked it..it is coming out just fine now...it has an auto shut-off valve....where does the water go if the unit shuts off and the water supply valve is in the " on " position....does it shut itself off when the tank is full????
 
ok...i understand this thing now... i am really pumping out some water....i am so glad i won't be making several trips to the store per week to buy water!!!!
 
the first few gallons of a brand new RODI should be disgaured. whati did is let it fill a 5 gallon bucket fist, then i started filling my tank.

it is a slow prosses. i once thought the same thing, were did you get it from show us.

here is mine, im very happy and i recomend useing thefilterguys.biz they rock, they even sent me some stuff free after they sent me the worng thing
Picture3000298.jpg
 
looks good i guess, i dont really know what all the tech bobble is. But i would say you should get your self a TDS monitor, if you look at my pic u will see it to the left

that gray containor is a 45 gal (from taget) cost me about 18 bucks.

i bought my self a auto topoff, witch really only plugs the end when it gets full

other wise i dont recommend leaveing it on if your not gonna be around to check it, i dont leave mine on all the time, anyway,
i turn it on walk away for a few, (the auto off is for safty) and then come back and turn it off, then i push down on the auto off and let the water in the filer come out.

if you let it run for 24 hours you should have about 100gallons, if its a 100gpd.

get your self a Duel monitoring TDS monitor,
this will tell you whats going in to the filter and whats going out,
it will also give you a heads up on when your filters are geting cloged
or if something has failed,
 
u cant see it, but there 3 units behind the hole house thingy (the big can) and then there 2 more septrate DI to the right the TDS monitors b4 it goes in to the 1st and when it comes out of the last.

i get about 70 -80 tds's b4 and 0 after.
 
also, i dont recommend haveing 80psi of water presuse,

depending on were you live and what the water source is, (well or city) you should have no more then 60, 65.

my house is a well and the well switch is a 30/50
meaning 30 on, and 50 off.

my gauge on my unit stays at about 42psi all the time when the unit is turned, on. i have a vaulve to turn off the water suplie in. when this is on, and the auto top off is full, the water presure in the cartige's should be what your water presure in the house it,

(mine will go up and down if full and on)
 
www.thefilterguys.biz

check this place out they have good info as well as a chart for water temp and production rates.

your filters will produce the optmail rate at i beleave 78degree.

my water is comeing from the cold side about 50 i think. so i dont really get that 100gpd that it says it can
 
Glad its working for you.
On the auto shutoff Q.
The float valve allows pressure to build in the supply line. There is a check valve that wont let flow back, so it build untill it closes the input unfiltered supply line. It stops the unfiltered input, and that stops all production untill pressure drops in the filtered supply line, then it starts again. At least thats how mine works.
 
burning2nd said:
also, i dont recommend haveing 80psi of water presuse,

depending on were you live and what the water source is, (well or city) you should have no more then 60, 65.

(mine will go up and down if full and on)

Filmtec brand membranes, widely considered the best membranes out there, are spec'ed at 77 degrees F water and 50 psi.

Many other brands require higher pressure.

Regardless, 80 or 90 psi is fine and would increase the performance of the system.
 
it seams to be working well now, except that they left a piece out of the kit and one of the hoses leaks a little, but not much... i will try to find the piece at Lowes or Home Depot
 
burning2nd said:
also, i dont recommend haveing 80psi of water presuse,

depending on were you live and what the water source is, (well or city) you should have no more then 60, 65.

my house is a well and the well switch is a 30/50
meaning 30 on, and 50 off.

my gauge on my unit stays at about 42psi all the time when the unit is turned, on. i have a vaulve to turn off the water suplie in. when this is on, and the auto top off is full, the water presure in the cartige's should be what your water presure in the house it,

(mine will go up and down if full and on)

Our water pressure is a constant 86 form the city tap, 45 you loose a lot of gph per day not that it matters but your unit will work more efficiently.
 
ronj said:
it seams to be working well now, except that they left a piece out of the kit and one of the hoses leaks a little, but not much... i will try to find the piece at Lowes or Home Depot

So I'm guessing that means they used Jaco style compression fittings rather than quick connect fittings on that unit?
 
oh, well in the book i got from thefilterguys.biz it does not recommecd useing anything over 65 psi (geared more to people with well pumps) with 30 50 switchs

i relizes that city water will have a higher psi but i think you might have more dts's and clorine (they make diffrent cartrige's for that)
 
You'd think that but that isn't necessary the case, some city water is tested very low TDS's & in some cases better than well water, all depends on the hole in the ground it comes from. If you notice they suggest pumps for well water but on most other commercial brands they rate their production on water temps. & pressure, anything above 65psi is considered great.
 

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