RO/DI water change

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May 16, 2006
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Spokane, Washington, United States
So I recently picked up a used RO/DI unit. It's a Barracuda 4 stage, made by AquaFX.

http://www.aquariumwaterfilters.com...8&category_id=15&option=com_phpshop&Itemid=28

I have a few questions. Right now, I don't have a holding tank so am making up water in 5 gallon buckets. I've got a 46 and 29 gallon Reef tank. I would love to do a massive water change in each, replacing the water with RO/DI water. Unfortunately, without a storage tank, I'm unable to do more than about 15 gallons at a time. I've currently been doing 5 gallon changes in each tank every evening for the past 4 days. I don't know how effective this is though. I'll continue doing this for the next couple days. I'm planning on buying a large garbage can from Home Depot or something like that to use as a water storage tank. I'll add a powerhead and a heater. Until I'm able to set this up, can anyone give me any idea how effective the 5 gallon/day changes are? What's the maximum amount of water I could safely change at once without causing any problems? I'll probably end up purchasing a 45 gallon garbage can and plan on having about 40 gallons made up at all times. I will also be using RO/DI water for top offs.
With the RO/DI unit, I also purchased a used "wet/dry" sump. I'll be removing the bio-balls and hooking it up as a sump/refugium with some live sand, live rubble rock and loads of chaeto. It has a 600 gph overflow, similar to a CPR overflow unit, but with a durso stand in the overflow. It also has a pump rated at 660 gph. The pump is a Surge 3500. I've never heard of it...lol. Hope it's a decent one. I still am a lil' unsure about the plumbing and such for all of this but I'm sure I'll figure it out. There's a couple small holes drilled (one in the overflow tube and one in the return tube) which I assume are to eliminate the chance of flooding. LOL I sure hope I'm able to figure this out anyway.
Please, any suggestions or advice would be great!!!
 
Sid,

Larger waterchanges are a LOT more efficient than many smallers ones. This is because with smaller ones, you are changing out some of the brand new water. Here's a good article by Randy Holmes-Farley. http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-10/rhf/index.php

If you buy a trash can, makes sure it's a Brute. The plasticizers used to make the cheaper trash cans will leach phosphates into your brand new phosphate-free water. Brutes won't leach.
 
Sid,

If you buy a trash can, makes sure it's a Brute. The plasticizers used to make the cheaper trash cans will leach phosphates into your brand new phosphate-free water. Brutes won't leach.

So the rubbermaid's aren't any good? I was thinking of switching my row of buckets to a single trash can ...
 
Thanks!

I was thinking of buying a container from a brewer's supply, but they aren't cheap.
 
I will have to get rid of my current trash can. It's a rubbermaid. Will go and get a brute until I can get a food grade water container. I guess it would explain my high phosphates in the tank in which my RO/DI water is near perfect.
 
ok i'm just reading this :p .

i got this container for my RO water and it's full of it.
I thought they were good :(

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=109998-315-2244-00STEEL&lpage=none at lowes .


Gaby,

Look at the number in the triangle. It will be molded somewhere on the product. Hopefully, it will be a 1 or 2. If not, there are curing methods so send me a PM. http://www.americanplasticscouncil.org/s_apc/sec.asp?TRACKID=&CID=313&DID=931
 
I will have to get rid of my current trash can. It's a rubbermaid. Will go and get a brute until I can get a food grade water container. I guess it would explain my high phosphates in the tank in which my RO/DI water is near perfect.

There are MANY possible reasons for high phosphates. While using cheap trash cans can be one of them, if you want to narrow it down, I highly recommend starting up a new thread.
 
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