So I upgrade to MH what now?

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dtd87

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I got a MH now 150w Phoenix Bulb with Lumen Max 3 reflector with a lumatek 250w dimmable ballast.

I'm hanging it off the wall currently, with some shelving brackets and chain :p.

What I'd like to know now is if I should visually notice anything different in my corals, I just have zoas. Or what I should expect as apposed to my old 96w t-5.

The ballast also has it's lumenmax setting that lets you run the bulbs for an extra 10% light, which I am not quite sure I want to tamper with yet.

So if anyone has any imput on what to expect and what better to do let me know please :p thanks
 
hope that it was a typing mistake cuz if it is a 150 did it even fire off and do you even need to burn it 10% hotter with it burning 100 watts over i think that poor bulb is gonna give up the ghost fairly quick i have a spare 250 bulb if you need one
 
the new lumatek ballasts are switchable either 150w or 250w

I would recomend getting alot of surface rolling with a power head to shimmer the tank if you have not already done so. Corals respond a bit better to shimmer. Your prob not going to see and jaw dropping changes with Zoa's. What temp bulb did you put on it?
 
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Yeah the ballast switches to 150w 175w and 250w. Haha I probably should have mentioned that.
 
i would run it on hqi if your keeping sps they will like it but zoas dont necessarily need it IMO. it will make bulb life shorter but not by much with a good bulb
 
What is the difference with the HQI? I want to get some sps but I'm not sure yet. But my t-5's weren't cutting it and my wallet wasn't cutting a new ATI fixture lol.
 
Hqi means the bulbs can operate at higher tempatures and pressures. The balast will give it more juice. Thats were you get your 10% extra light
 
AH okay, Yeah I've got a nice honeywell fan blowning on this sucker so maybe I will use it :p Just not to sure yet. Kind of scared Lol
 
what is the K of the bulb?

10K is growth
14 - 15K slower growth but adds color
20K very slow growth great color.

With only being Zoas you should be able to get away with a 20K bulb. I dont know how much difference you going to see right away but take a picture of it now and another one every three months.
 
what is the K of the bulb?

10K is growth
14 - 15K slower growth but adds color
20K very slow growth great color.

With only being Zoas you should be able to get away with a 20K bulb. I dont know how much difference you going to see right away but take a picture of it now and another one every three months.

I wouldnt say that this is completely accurate. There are some good 20k bulbs that output more par than a 14k bulb. It all depends.

Same with LEDs, most blue LEDs give the same par as the white ones.

But as a general rule, you're correct but it does vary.
 
Keep the Pheonix 14K. You will get amazing colors and good growth with SPS and other corals. (You've seen the Elos tank) You might see faster growth with a higher PAR bulb but faster growth isn't always a good thing. Unless you are an aquaculture facility;) Switching to a higher PAR, different spectrum, doesn't always yield the best colors either. Besides...even though they call it 14K its more blue than most
DE 20K's.

Nate is correct. You may not see a lot with your Zoas. Some color better under halide but it will be a slow, gradual change. If you start adding SPS just make sure Calcium, Alk, and Mg are dialed in and stable. Also, make sure your temp is 75-79 and stable. Temps around 82+ or large fluctuations usually cause problems for SPS.
 
roger. But with the ballast should It be set to 150w or the HQI? I love the Elos tank btw, but I'm sure everyone does.
 

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