Stand design

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jc130b

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2005
Messages
87
Location
Roy,WA
Before we start please forgive the drawing, I'm no artist. This is a design I have to build a stand, the tank is a 75 gal Acrylic (48"x15"x24"). I would like both sides to be mostly open with a door, and the front 2 doors.
I wanna know if you all think using 2x2's and 1/2 plywood on the sides will be strong enough?
Should I make the top 48"x15" the same as the tank or should I use some overhang?
Thanks
 
Thank you both are nice stands and I think looking at both I have an idea of how I wanna make it.
 
I would recommend 2X4s for all the structural pieces of the stand. I agree that the stand will probably be way overbuilt but that ensures that you won't wake up one night to the sound of your tank meeting the floor, after it passes through your sump. 2X4s are relatively inexpensive, you can still use plywood on top, with a foam pad on top of that, and then skin it however you would like. Take a look at the attachment. That's what I would do if I were you.

Mike
 
Hey, i have the same tank as you and i just built a stand for it. I used this drawing. I have the whole bottom open. I omitted the screw strips since i had a tool that i used to drill the wood at an angle to join the two pieces of wood. The stand is super solid. I used ply wood for the top and pine for the face and sides. my two cabinet doors span the length of the stand allowing for an opening about 40 inches wide.

attachment.php


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and these instructions with a little modification.

The basic principle of the design is two box frames connected by four legs. The upper one supports the tank and transfers the load to the legs. The legs are made of several pieces of 2X4 to assist in construction and sheething the stand in plywood for strength and cosmetics. The bottom frame transmits the load of the tank into the floor.


Design notes:
*The plan for this stand consists of 21 pieces. Like color pieces are the same length and of the same board size.
*The box frames are screwed together first, then the legs are built off the bottom frame, the top frame is then placed on top and secured to the legs.
*The green pieces are screw strips. These provide limited load strength but serve to make assembly easier and help keep the stand square.
*The blue piece between the upper rails (red) works to keep the upper rails from twisting.

Ok, now to the cut list:
First off: The calculations below are based off of a stand that is "W" inches wide X "D" inches front-to-back X "H" inches high.

(2) Red - Upper Rails: Length = W
These will be sized according to length: 2X4 for 48" or less for smaller tanks (Rule of thumb is 75g-90g); 2X6 up to 72" with 125g-150g being acceptable; For longer spans and larger tanks 2X8s are recommended.

(2) Yellow - Upper Ends: Length = D-3"
Theses will be made of the same material as the upper rails.

(4) Green - Screw Strips: Length = H-2"
These 2X4s are shorter then the tank is tall.

(8) Purple - Uprights: Length varies:
- 2X4 Upper Rails: Length = H -7"
- 2X6 Upper Rails: Length = H-9"
- 2X8 Upper Rails: Length = H-10.75"
These 2X4s support the weight of the tank. The ones on the short sides of the stand provide a flat surface for attaching a plywood facing and while they do provide some strength, they are optional.

(2) Orange - Bottom Rails: Length = W
These 2X4s act to spread the weight of the tank over a larger area.

(3) Blue - Bottom Ends: Length = D-3"

Covering the sides of the stand with plywood will help to stiffen the stand against twisting and shifting. Doors can be mounted to the legs as desired.

So there it is. 21 pieces in 6 lenghts equals a tank stand that should fit the bill for most people. There are other plans out there but this is a simple design using simple tools and common wood sizes. It may not suit everyone's application but it should fit the bill for most common size tanks.

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this is my thread

http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54837
 
I would also use the 2x4s. You may lose alittle room down below, but you would have better access to the sump without a mid suport.
 
A 2x2 is not as strong as a 2x4 but the thickness is the same 1 1/2''. So if you design the stand right you will have the same amount of room underneath using the 2x4s. You would need to use the 2x2s for the top and bottom plate of the stand.
IMO 2x2s would be more than enough to suport your tank.
 
I'd use 2x4's, myself. Turn them side ways and you won't lose any room. Plus I'd make I used a 2x4 rim.
Plus I like to have that overhang on the top. When your doing something in the tank, it's nice to have a place to put something.
 
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