sump plumbing question

Reef Aquarium & Tank Building Forum

Help Support Reef Aquarium & Tank Building Forum:

jgalvin

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 16, 2010
Messages
205
Location
Kirkland, WA
Hi, i'm in process of setting up my second reef tank (been in hobby for 1 year) and this one will have a sump. I have a reef ready oceanic and installed the megaflow kit last night and will be ordering a sump this week. So i think all i need to do is connect the sump to the bulkheads. Couple questions:
- what's the best approach for the tubing - PVC or flexible hose?
- do you just get this at home depot or is there specialized vendors?
- in researching most people put a ball valve in place in the line, do you do that to both the inflow and outflow?

Much thanks in advance for any replies in helping me set it up.
-James
 
Hi James,
Well everyone does this a bit different but here is my experience.
I have tanks in two rooms that use a common sump. The closest tank has 1" flex hose from the pump to the display and all pvc for the drain. The other tank has all pvc both directions.
I think it is personal preference on which material, both work well for me.
I think I got the flex at a hottub store because the stuff at lowes was all smashed from being on the roll.
I would only use a ball valve if you were planning on going with the herbie overflow, otherwise I really don't want anything to slow the tank drain. Some people use a ball valve to adjust how much of the flow goes to the fuge and how much goes to the skimmer section and that works fine.

-Todd
 
Are you using the bulkheads that came with the tank? They have a nipple on the end? If so, flexable hose will work better, easier to fit, line up, a lot less measuring and fuss. If you are using normal bulkheads you can do either. If you hard plumb it with pvc some of the spa pvc hose will make it a much easier to put together.
https://cid-905040fb25aeaf98.photos.live.com/browse.aspx/125%20Gallon%20Hardcoral%20Build?wa=wsignin1.0&sa=605206362[/IMG]al[/IMG] Man I still don't know how to put a link in, I think if you copy and paste that in your browser and see if it will bring up my pictures of my tank. I tried it and it did load.
 
Thanks for the replies! Vincent I can get in your skydrive and see your tank pics but don't see any sump pics. I'm using the bunkheads that came in the ocenaic kit, its hard plastic with a ribbled nipple, one side (outflow) is 1" and the inflow looks to be 3/4". I'm assuming adding ball values would make it easier to turn off to clean the sump correct? I'm also assuming assming a ball valve in the return line could allow you to control flow, correct? I still haven't groc'd the whole flow thing. If i use a return pump that is too slow (let's say 300GPH) wouldn't the sump overflow with water as water siphons down from the tank in the sump, and likewise if i go too high on the pump (let's say 900GPH) wouldn't the sump be too low in water? I need to order a return pump as well, so confused on that as well.

Thanks again!
James
 
I agree with the other guys regarding using hard pvc and spa flex. I bought mine at Ewing Irrigation: Ewing Irrigation - Locations. I would recommend using tru-union ballvalves on the drains and the output of the return pump just incase you have take something apart (it happens). For a 1" drain a Eheim 1260 will work fine or a 1262 if you want to tee off the return to feed a reactor, etc.

On the bottom is a link to my FT and QT builds which uses the aformentioned equipment.

Good luck with the tank build !
 
Last edited:
The bulkheads that came with your tank, the ones with the nipples, are designed to have a 1 inch hose for the drain and the returns are a 3/4 hose that slips over the nipple and then you can hose clamp them on for a little extra security. The link I sent you should take you right to my tank and sump pictures. On my tank I replaced the All Glass or Oceanic bulkheads with standard bulkheads. As you can see on my plumbing I up sized the drain from the bottom of the 1 inch bulkhead to 1 1/2 drain pipe down to the sump and I up sized the return line to 1 inch up to the tanks 3/4 inch bulkhead.

https://cid-905040fb25aeaf98.photos.../125 Gallon Hardcoral Build?wa=wsignin1.0&sa= 605206362[/IMG]al[/IMG]

This link should open the page that my pictures are on for my 125 gallon hard coral tank. If you go through the pictures, I think I have them in some kind of order, It will show pics of the tank and then the ones with the plumbing are under the tank shots to show off some of my plumbing skills. LOL It shows how I set my pumps, skimmer, and the sump/refugium. The sump has a full glass lids to cut down on some of the evaporation. The spa flex hose can be found a Lowe's or Home depot. This glues to the PVC pipes the same as the hard PVC pipes so there is nothing special needed for assembly.

I just copied and pasted the link to my browser and looked again and those pictures are of my sump and plumbing that sits below my 125 All Glass Tank. So the pictures are of just the underside plumbing. Hopefully this will help. The drains do not need valve on them the drain should be free flowing all the way to the sump. The pump return returns water to the tank and once enough water is pumped into the tank it will overflow through the teeth down the drain tube and to the sump. If you turn off the pump the water should quit draining once it goes below the overflow teeth. If not the something is siphoning the water or the pin hole in the return line may be plugged this needs to be fixed before continuing. You should put a valve on the return line going to the tank to adjust the amount of flow you want circulating through your tank. Normally 350 to 750 gallons to receive the full benefits of having the sump or refugium on the system. The All Glass or Oceanic kits have a small pin hole drilled in the bottom corner of the 90 elbow on the return line where the centipede is attached. This allows air to enter the return pipe and break the the siphon of the return line if power is lost. If this hole is not in ANY of your return lines your return lines will siphon water back to your sump until the water is below the ends of the centipede. Some people mod their tanks return line or build their own type of return and if you do not put a hole somewhere in the line, usually below the water line at a downward angle so you do not squirt water out of your tank :) you will drain your tank to the bottom of your return line. Which most sumps can not handle the extra gallons it can siphon or drain. Once you have your tank plumbed you should fill you tank until you fill the tank and overflow box until it starts to drain to the sump. This should be what your tank level will be if you lose power. Then you can fill up your sump to the top if you like. The level of water will drop when you turn on your pump as it fills the tank and return line with water. You should let it run a bit to burb the air out of the lines and check for leaks, then you can mark your sump for the proper water level to keep the system topped off. Now you should turn off the power to make sure nothing overflows in case the power goes off while you are away. Now if all has gone well drain the tank, add your sand and rock refill it with saltwater and start enjoying all your hard work :) Let me know. Vince
 
P.S. I uploaded some more photo's. Not in order but it will give you a little more to look at. I have changed the light setup, thank you Jesse! and am working on a canopy, I will get some pic's of that uploaded pretty quick....
 
Last edited:
Jim, thanks for the link, there are one of those stores right near me and heading there shortly today before they close. So just need to get spa hose for both 1 inch (outflow) and 3/4" (return) as well as two ball-valves, and clamps to hold in place for added security. I'm thinking for the return pump a Tunze's 1073.020 silence pump (634GPH) due to small footprint, and hoping quiet (tank is in living room)

Vincent, yep noticed the small hole in megaflow kit. I'm getting a "Vincent only shares photos with friends message", so there will be a friend invite from me. I actually work at Microsoft pretty closely with the Live guys. THanks again, will let you know if any more questions when i get the hoses, valves, etc.
 
Back
Top