sump/return pump

[swifter]

I have a 200 gallon tank and will be building a 60 gallon sump for it. how many GPH should my return pump be able to handle. the 200 gallon tank has 2 overflow hoses drilled through the base of the tank.

thanks

 

[ReefGeeker]

That depends on ur preference but I'd say 750-1200 gph with head loss let others chime in though as I'm no expert that is if there r 2 overflows

 

[swifter]

when you say head loss are you referring to the distance the water has to go up? It may be important to mention the tank is 36" tall and will be on a decent size stand probably going to have to move the water about 6 feet high.

 

[sedrostyle]

All depends on how much gph flow you have with your overflows.
Then you want your return to be relatively close to that.
That all effects how much flow you have in your sump.
I read a thing on sumo design way back when and the science of your baffles flow and return gph.
Let me try to dig it up

 

[TJL]

Yes, head loss related to elevation required to pump back to display as well as fittings (especially ball valves) all of which add to back pressure by restricting flow through. Your main limiting factor will be the size of return(s) and which type of system you prefer. I am a strong believer in high-flow sump/fuges and have approx 1050+-gph running through my sump/fuge utilyzing a Panworld 100PX-X which without head-loss starts out at 1270gph and goes up 4' with a handfull of fittings in between. This is on my 125g with 75g sump/fuge, DT has two 1-1/2" drains with two 3/4" emergency overflows.

Cheers, Todd

 

[sedrostyle]

http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html

Hopes this helps

 

[swifter]

thanks for the help. I'll do some research on how much water will come through my overflow before I buy a return pump to attempt to manage that much water.

 

[N1Husker]

Check with Oceans by Design, they will help you.

 

[swifter]

so i'm fixing to pick up a 55 g tank for a sump and it is supposedly good to go but I was thinking I should do something to verify the seals on the tank are still good. what can I use to seal the edges of the tank that won't hurt the fish

 

[Naso2]

I always run 7X - 10X the display volume

 

[swifter]

I think I missed something here. when you say 7x -10x the display volume what do you mean?

 

[Naso2]

On a 100g display tank I run 700gph-1000gph through the sump

 

[Peppie]

so i'm fixing to pick up a 55 g tank for a sump and it is supposedly good to go but I was thinking I should do something to verify the seals on the tank are still good. what can I use to seal the edges of the tank that won't hurt the fish

First set the tank on a flat level surface, then add water. If the floor stays dry for a day or so, your good to go!!! LOL

Now if you would like to reseal the interior silicone corners you need to cut away ALL of the silicone on the inside of the tank. Be very careful to NOT cut the silicone between the glass panels. Once ALL the old silicone has been removed. Get some denatured alcohol and clean the inside corners. Once they are clean and silicone free you can apply a new bead of RVT 100 series silicone, Black of Clear. Be sure to smooth the bead ASAP for the silicone will start to skin over within 3-5 min. If you wait any longer you will have a mess, and have to start over.
Some people will mask off the corner with tape to keep the smear to a minimum.
It also helps if you wet your finger with soapy water before you smear the silicone seam.

 

[swifter]

Thanks for the advice and if it holds water now, do you think I should take that precaution just in case or is it not worth the effort if it holds water initially?

 

[pandora32]

To me, ive never resealed a tank though, if i was worried about it, id either attempt to reseal it or move on to a different tank. 55g tanks are pretty low cost to buy new. But i know youre a "hands on" guy! A leak in the sump with 200g above it can make a really wet floor! (Speaking from expieriance)

 

[swifter]

I think I may reseal it depending on the condition when I get it. if I do reseal it, are their any tips/tricks to removing the silicone from the tank? a box knife or is there some other tool I should use. and when removing the seal should I brace the walls of the tank with something? (not sure if it will become less "stable")

thanks for all the input.