The best way to clean equipment and live rock

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MarineTeng

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I've read some about doing vinegar baths to equipment to clean them completely, and i've tried it a little, but i must be doing something wrong, how strong should the vinegar be, i want to clean off some of my equipment so i don't transfer a few types of algae to one of my tanks

And live rock, what's the best way to clean it all the way to the point of dry rock pretty much, i've heard about 'cooking' live rock aka no light and really high ammonia something like that, but will that kill all the algae too?

thanks for your comments
 
for the equipment to kill algae i would add about a half cup of bleach to a 5gal bucket of water then soak in that for 20min or so then rinse well in tap.

the rock cooking method wont kill the bacteria in the rock and is a long processes, 2 to 3 months
 
I just did a vinegar bath on some pumps and a small CPR refugium I took off my 75 and let them soak for a couple of hours in my kitchen sink with a small pump going and it worked very well at removing the coralline algae,and what didnt come off had to be brushed lightly.I used about a cup and a half of vinegar to a full sink.As for the rock cooking Im not sure,I have read its a long process.
 
I cooked a rock, for a couple of hours it smelled bad. Killed everything. Oh and I used cider vinegar, was all I had :confused: :D :oops: :rolleyes:

Oh , it is back in the tank now for over a month, it's good to go. Just a couple of cracks LOL.
I WOULD NOT SUGGEST THIS METHOD. (the cider part)
 
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deb, you used cider vinegar to cook the rock?

everyone else thanks for the input, i tried rice vinegar don't think it worked too well, i think i'll try the bleach

as for cooking rock, i'm not worried about bacteria as much as algae
 
if you just want to kill everything on/in the rock fill a tub and add water and bleach and let it soak for a day or two then rinse it very well with water and let it dry in the sun for 2 days
 
hmm that sounds like the best solution at this point, i'm waiting to see how well my turbo snails do on my tank, if they don't do a good enough job i'm just going to redo that tank and make it a frag tank, with lr underneath the frag racks
 
Chris, after a bleach soaking, don't you have any concerns about leaching that back into the tank? I'd think you'd better plan on a SERIOUS rinsing. And of course, the whole thing will re-cycle.

For cleaning equipment, I use muriatic acid. I mix it about 10 parts water to 1 part MA. Use outdoors, and wear rubber gloves. Coralline will come fizzing off in seconds. I clean all my equipment like this all the time, running the pumps in the acid to clear out the insides, and it always looks absolutely brand new when it's done. After I pull the pumps out, I run them in fresh water for a few minutes to get a good rinse through and through.
 
sherman do you have any suggestions for cleaning live rock other than bleach, i was kinda worried about the same thing with the bleach and putting that back in my tank

also where do u get muriatic acid?
 
First, the muriatic acid: Home Depot. $7 for 2 gallons. Found in the outdoor/swimming pool area.

Second, I've never had to clean live rock myself. Forced into the situation personally, I'd probably cook it myself. Read more into that, ammonia is not part of the process. The idea is to get rid of the algae. The only way to do so is to have something consume it, or to starve it of the two things it needs to survive: light and nutrients. From the thread at RC, here's a quote from SeanT:

SeanT said:
The purpose of "cooking" your rocks is to have the bacteria consume all (or as much) organic material and PO4 stored on, and in, the rock as possible.

The first step to this is commitment.
You have to be willing to remove your rock from the tank.
It doesn't have to be all at once, but I feel if you are going to do this do it all. In stages if that is easier but make sure that all of it gets done.

The new environment you are creating for your rock is to take it from an algal driven to a bacterial driven system.
In order to do this, the rock needs to be in total darkness to retard and eventually kill the algae's on the rock and to give the bacteria time to do the job.

So basically you need tubs to hold the rock.

Equipment needed.
1. Dedication.
2. Tubs to cook rock in. And an equal amount of tubs to hold the rock during waterchanges.
3. A few powerheads.
4. Plenty of buckets.
5. A smug feeling of superiority that you are taking it to "the next level."
6. Saltwater, enough made up to follow the instructions below and to replenish your tank after removing rocks.
Here are the steps:

1. Get into your head and accept the fact you will be making lots of salt water if you aren't lucky enough to have access to filtered NSW.
2. Explain to significant other what is going on so they don't flip out. This process can take up to 2 months. Prepare them in advance so he/she can mark it on the calendar and that they won't nag about it until that date arrives.
3. Setup a tub(s) where the rock is to be cooked. Garages are great for this.
4. Make up enough water to fill tub(s) about halfway and around 5-7 buckets about 60% full.
5. Remove all the rock you want to cook at this stage. (The rock can be removed piece by piece until you are done.) I suggest shutting off the circulation beforehand to minimize dust storms.
6. Take the first piece of rock and dunk it, swish it, very, very well in the first bucket. Then do it again in the 2nd bucket, then the third.
7. Place rock in the tub.
8. Repeat steps 6 & 7 to every piece of rock you want to cook at this time. The reason I suggested 5-7 buckets of water will be evident quickly...as the water quickly turns brown.
9. Place powerhead(s) in the tub and plug in. Position at least one powerhead so that it agitates the surface of the water pretty well. This is to keep the water oxygenated. You can use an air pump for additional oxygenation if you wish. Only one powerhead per tub is needed. Remember the powerheads main responsibility is the oxygenation of the water.
10. Cover the tub. Remember, we want TOTAL darkness.
11. Empty out buckets, restart circulation on main tank.
12. Wait.
13. During the first couple of weeks it is recommended to do a swishing and dunking of the rocks twice a week.
What this entails is to make up enough water to fill up those buckets and the tub the rock is in.
First, lay out your empty tub(s) and fill buckets the same as before.
Then, uncover tub with the rock in it. Take a rock and swish it in the tub it's in to knock any easy to get off junk.
Then, swish it thru the 3 buckets again, and place in the empty tub..
Repeat for all your rocks.
Then empty the tub that all the rocks were cooking in, take it outside and rinse it out with a hose.
Place tub back where it was, fill with new saltwater, add rocks and powerheads, and cover.
Wait again until the next water change.
You will be utterly amazed at how much sand, silt, detritus is at the bottom of the tub and every bucket. It is amazing.
At times the stench was so strong I gagged.

How it works:

Some FAQ's.
When re-introducing the rock to my tank, a month or two from now, should I do that in parts to help minimize any cycling effect(s)...if there are any?
I never have. Really after a very short while, the ammonium cycle has been established. That's not what you're worry about though, it's the stored phosphates and that you have to wait it out.
When they are producing very little detritus - you'll know - then I would use them all at once.

Would running Carbon filtration and/or a PO4 reducing media help/hurry/hinder the process?
I wouldn't fool with it. You don't want the detritus to sit there long enough to rot, release water soluble P again. You want to take it out while it's still locked up in that bacterial detritus.

I would say that 85% of my exposed rock had Bryopsis (hair algae) covering it.
There isn't a single visible strand on any rocks my tank now.
Remember, the key is patience. Let this process run its course.

And a few last minute tidbits I remembered.
Your coralline will die back, recede etc.
My thoughts on this are GREAT!
Now my rock is more porous for additional pods, mysids, worms etc.
Coralline will grow back.
Throughout this process the sponges, and pods on my rock have not died off.
Every time I do a water change they are there and plentiful.
 
Chris, after a bleach soaking, don't you have any concerns about leaching that back into the tank? I'd think you'd better plan on a SERIOUS rinsing. And of course, the whole thing will re-cycle.

if you rinse it well in fresh water you will dilute most of the bleach, then when you set it out in the sun to dry any thats left will evaporate away. if you do all that and are still worried about bleach remaining, go get some declorinator from the LFS fill a tub put the rock in it and add some declorinator
 
hmm maybe i'll try bleach on a less important rock first, since obviously that's a much faster method and my parents wouldn't be too happy about a 2 month process

as for cider vinegar that will eat away at the rocks right? since it's an acid, not sure i want that
 
vinegar and muriatic acid will dissolve some rock but not much because as it dissolves it neutralizes the acids. muriatic acid is pretty nasty to work with, if you decide to use it there are a few do's and dont's so ask first
 
Yes, I definitely second that. Muriatic acid isn't to be toyed with. It can be safe, and is extremely effective. Rubber gloves, a well ventilated area to avoid fumes, and care not to splash are all extremely important. It's hard to draw a compromise between scaring you to death about acid, and not mentioning care and making it sound like a casual task. With proper care, which is very easy to do, muriatic acid is safe. Don't be scared of it, but most certainly respect it.
 
i have taken high school chemistry i can bust out the goggles :cool: really in all seriousness i'll make sure i have all the knowledge i need before diving into it, rubber gloves... that means like dishwasher rubber gloves work well, and then something for the arms too i'm geussing, just out of curiousity how high a molar is this stuff at a 10 water to 1 muriatic acid
 
Thanks for the tip about the outdoor/swimming pool area to find the muriatic acid. I wish I had read this thread before I was off to Lowes. They had know clue what I was talking about "what kind of acid?" they replied. pssshhh. Anyway picked up a gallon of vinegar and dumped it into a model1 sump I am cleaning out. We shall see if it works, I have no idea how strong the Long's brand is but it said something about being reduced w/water so I am assuming it's pretty weak. I will probably be off to HD tommorrow. Thanks:)
 
ya i might go to home depot or lowe's tomorrow, many people use vinegar so it must be effective, using muriatic acid u do 10 to 1, so that's pretty diluted too unless the muriatic is 100% acid which i kinda doubt
 
LOL I took "cooking" rocks literaly so I really cooked mine on the stove in water and vinegar. It did work! 10 parts water 2 parts cider vinegar :) .
 
Deb, "cooking" your rocks like that will definitely kill the algae... and everything else on the entire rock. :) Cooking as posted above, is intended to keep the rock live.
 

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