Thinking about doing a natural daylight SPS Frag tank would like some opinions...

[MC Lighting]

My 26 gallon Bow front tank is near my sliding glass window which is facing South/South west and I have noticed that the LPS in the tank has exploded with growth since moving there. I was thinking with this kind of light at my disposal would it work out well for a SPS frag tank right in front of the glass window? I was thinking of a shallow tank like maybe a 40g breeder or simalar I could easily integrate the water supply into my main system since it was all designed for multiple tanks. What I had thought was a low flow of water form the main system just to move water in and out for filtration and stability and create flow with either powerheads or a closed loop on just the tank. What I am wondering is if I did somthing like this what type of additional lighting would be necessary other than for night viewing and what kind of flow would you suggest? Thanks for any input and ideas.

 

[returnofsid]

As many days as you're cloud covered, do you think you'd get the intensity required for SPS? As for additional lighting needed...IF you needed any additional lighting, I'd think you'd need either T5HO or MH lighting. Would be a great experiment!! I do believe it'd work better somewhere like Arizona or Texas...lol.

You'd also need to make sure that the natural sunlight wasn't just feeding algae. Although, you'd know that from the current tank that got you noticing the sunlight to begin with.

Keep us informed!!

 

[MC Lighting]

the funny part is that the LPS is my gauge of light that is being used even on cloudy days with no other lights on in the house or tanks the LPS is wide open and seems quite content. remeber that even on a cloudy day you still have a great deal of UV light being passed down. I was thinking of T-5's also as I already have a ton of MH in this place but I also thought I might move the MH's off my 90 gallon as the only thing that requires light is the GBTA.

 

[returnofsid]

IMO, T5s with appropriate reflectors are every bit as good as 250MH lighting, as long as it's not having to penetrate deeper than 22-24 inches. I have a Tek5 over my 75 and SPS, Clams and Sebae on the bottom are all thriving. Even the Acros are growing great and keeping color.

UV from the sun does penetrate clouds, but does NOT penetrate glass. That's why you don't get a suntan through your car window...but will get a "farmer's tan" with arm sticking out window. Also why you can get burnt on a cloudy day.

 

[MC Lighting]

There has to be a certain amount of UV getting through because the 1 year old carpet n front of the glass is badly bleached and for some reason I do get sunburnt even with the windows up in the car but then again I am as fare skinned as it gets

 

[reedman]

standard windows will allow some amount/types of UV light through. There are newer windows out with UV shielding to prevent furniture/carpet fading.

 

[returnofsid]

You're correct in that some get through. A single pane of Float glass will block 30% of UV, laminated glass blocks 96-99%. The thickness of the glass also needs to be taken into account. UV bulbs are made out of thinner glass than most other light bulbs so that the majority of UV can pass through the glass.

UV is also made up of 3 different waves.
UV-A is the one that causes long term skin damage by penetrating deeper into the skin. It does not cause tanning or burning and does penetrate glass better than UV-B.

UV-B causes tanning and burning, but not long term skin damage. UV-B does not penetrate glass.

UV-C radiation is absorbed by the ozone layer and doesn't reach us. It is used for medical reasons and has to be artificially produced, such as in germicidal lamps.

I also don't know if UV rays are the rays that are beneficial to our corals, but I don't think they are. UV-B falls in the 290-320nm range and UV-A falls in the 320 to 400nm range. Closer to Actinics, I think.

 

[MC Lighting]

good info so I wonder what we can pull from that to explain the LPS's growth and activity on a cloudy day? As for the algea growth I do get a little more than nomrla green algea but nothing out of control by any means...

 

[reedman]

I will tell you this...sometimes more emphasis it put on light that I think is warranted. I kept a fiji yellow leather under 50W track lighting for about a year. Although it did not thrive, it lived just fine. I am not advocating low light for corals, but I do think we sometimes generalize that more is always better....sometimes just not necessary. MHO

 

[MC Lighting]

well its funny several of us have been talking lately how many have gone overboard on a lot of things and many of us are finding leaving things alone more are resulting in better overall tank health. I definatly have more light than necessary on the 180 but then again thats the point of this thread is to get these opinions.

 

[MC Lighting]

here is a pic about 2pm today this is with no lights on in the tank just clouded sunlight...

as you can see the algea on the bottom that is about 3 months worth unscraped... Now that I am looking at the pics though I think I will get off my butt and go scrape it!

 

[returnofsid]

Corals look happy and healthy. For 3 months, that's not much algae at all!! Are you feeding your corals at all? That could compensate for not getting enough light. If you aren't feeding them, or if they aren't getting much from your fish population, I'd say they're getting plenty of light.

 

[MC Lighting]

I do not target feed anything I feed coral frenzy about once per month just for kicks. The fish are fed shrimp, mysis, Krill as well as flake and pellet but only flake daily the rest is 3-4 times per week. Other than than I do not dose with anything.

 

[trido]

JesseB, who lives in your neck of the woods has a 400G reef set up in a sun room and HAD the same intentions as you. There just arent enough sunny days in Seattle and in the winter there isnt nearly enough intensity when the sun is out. Quick Wiki fact:

it is cloudy an average of 226 days per year

Were just too far from the equator and have too much overcast to make it very successful.
Give it a shot, Let us know how it works out. Just because it didnt work for one person doesnt mean it wont work for you.

 

[MC Lighting]

Ic ould definatly see it being a problem in a 400g because of the depth, thats kind of why I was thinking a breeder tank very shallow so the light that is available will not have to work its way down. If nothing else I guess it will make a cool LPS tank if it should fail. Now I just need to figur eout the flow and find a used breeder tank that is not all beat up.

 

[morgan]

thintresting thread
i dont think people go over board with there lighting they just dont vary the colour range enough
i keep corals in sunlight thewy get full direct light for about 3-4 hours but even tyhe ambient light through the beige plasctic is enough but maybe thats because im in australia
of course the less u malestor your tank the better it will be if u think about it corals in the wild dont get moved from one location to another very often if at all but in ur tank a frag may get put in 6 differnt spot in 3 weeks because ur trying to find that perfect spot every time it gets moved it will get upset

 

[kevinpo]

Hello,
A few years ago I was talking with Anthony Calfo late one night on this very subject. In his book he details how he grew corals in a green house. When I returned from the conference I set up a 40 gal breeder in the window and for most of the year it has enough light for low to moderate light corals. I have since added a 150W halide over it but for high light SPS a DE 250W would keep the color better. The 40 breeder has no center brace so a single pendant is all that is required. A mini Luminarc reflector would give enough spread.

Soft and LPS corals are mostly deep water as they could not withstand the wave action at low tide. You can see from your picture the corals have the look of a low light environment especially the Xenia. Many SPS corals will survive with your current lighting scheme but they will grow slowly and be mostly brownish with a hint of color.

T-5's will work well also but at a higher long term cost and less accessibility to the tank.

HTH,
Kevin

 

[kevinpo]

Regarding water flow I would recommend a couple of Koralia 3 pumps in a 40 breeder at about 850 gph ea. it should be plenty of flow.

Regards,
Kevin

 

[MC Lighting]

Thanks Kevin that tank also has a 150w halide 6" from the surface so it gets additional lighting aside from the window. I guess I will just bite the bullet and give up on the idea for now until I decide I want to spend the money on t-5' or yet another halide.

 

[freetareef]

i agree with kevin. i was just going to say tha calfo states in his book that he has to use a shade cloth a few months in the year. i think you would be fine with sps in that light you showed in the pic. the brown is from the k temp of the light the corals are getting. if you wanted and what i would do is grow em like crazy with some feeding plus your sunlight, then put them in you display for a bit to color them up then trade or sell them to enhance your display tank... hmm... anyone want some moon coral????