Using the crawl space

[Sculpin]

In an effort to reduce noise and achieve easier access to all the different pieces of equipment, I’m considering moving my sump, chiller, etc. to a small room on the other side of the house from the tank. Both rooms are on the ground floor, so I’m wondering if it’s possible to run pipes through my crawl space between the two rooms. Has anyone seen this done, and do you have any suggestions on what kind of equipment to use?

Pushing the clean water from the sump back to the tank seems pretty straightforward, I just wonder if I’ll need to use multiple pumps along the way. The real challenge I see is getting the dirty water to the sump. My current system just uses gravity, so I’m wondering how to move that water horizontally.

Thanks, Sculpin

 

[Herefishyfishy]

I had a friend who put ALL his equipment save the lighting, in the crawl space.
Sump, water top-off, pumps, chiller, etc. Was a great tank. His handle was Slickdonkey

 

[Sculpin]

Thanks Herefishyfishy! That's actually plan B if I can't figure out how to move the water effectively. The crawl space is maybe 4 feet high, so not tiny, but not ideal for working in either. The biggest problem is getting down there because it wasn't designed for easy access.

 

[Herefishyfishy]

The only downside is having to pump water uphill. Best for closed loops where one isn't fighting gravity.

Here is his tank build thread:

http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/f70/240-donkey-tank-19220/

 

[Somethings Fishy]

i like the idea!

 

[Scooterman]

How far across the house are you talking about?
I think as far as drains, It would depend on height to get enough gravity to push the water reliable enough, then to get it back. I don't doubt it can be done but you would have to plan it well, make sure nothing freezes or gets too hot etc if exposed to outside and can you cool the water enough. Drains I'd think I'd go larger on the pipes like at least 2" maybe biger if you have a large volume system. The return you could probably do a 1" return with a good pressure rated pump, but that may cost you more to run and up front.
Just some thoughts. I know lots of people put chillers outside, so that can be done also.

 

[trido]

AS long as your sump is lower than the tank you can use it in a remote location and the display tank will drain. My overflow pipe even flow back up hill about a foot to get over the rim of my sump. A pressure rated pump will make for a great return no matter how far the distance. They slow down mostly only for head pressure

 

[Sculpin]

Thanks for all the great feedback!

My sump could be a few feet lower than my drain, but the pipe going through the crawl space would be lower still. I was thinking of how the Romans built fountains where they used pressure from a larger body of water to force water to smaller body. I think that's basically the same idea as the sump being lower than the drain, but higher than the crawl space. My only worry is might there be a problem with flow being too slow and junk getting built up in the pipe?

Another thought I had was if it was possible (or even recommended) to put a pump in the middle of the drain pipe to help move the water along. My worry is getting the flow right so it doesn't push too much water and run slightly dry.

 

[JPG@CFI]

You won't need a pump on the drain side. You will want to minimize the head on the sump side. I have had to do this many time for customers. If you want to PM me for further details, please feel free. Jason

 

[Sculpin]

Thanks Jason! I'd like to learn as much as possible and see if I can do the plumbing myself. The horizontal distance from tank to sump would be about 25 feet and the overflow point will probably be around 5 feet off the ground. I was thinking of running pipes straight down to the crawl space through the wall behind the tank, then have them run ever so slightly angled downhill the entire distance, and then have the pipe turn upward at the last moment. I'm planning to put the sump on the floor, so the water would have to travel up that final distance from the crawlspace and over the edge of the sump. I haven't bought the sump yet so I'm not sure how tall it will be, but I’m guessing a couple feet.

Please let me know if you see anything wrong with my current plan, and any tips or tricks you recommend.

 

[Husker12181]

I was thinking of doing something very similar with my tank, did you try this and what kind of results did you have?

Thanks

 

[Sculpin]

Funny that you replied to this post today. My tank and stand have finally arrived and are waiting for pickup at Barrier this weekend. I've got all the plumbing and my fish room constructed, I just need to connect it all up and begin the water test. I really need to start an official build thread, and start posting updates there.

 

[Husker12181]

Did you go to Barrier on a Monday a couple weeks ago to order that tank? I talked to an individual when I ordered my 90g a couple weeks ago and am wondering if that was you?

 

[Sculpin]

I tend to go on the weekends, so it pretty sure it wasn't me. Sorry.

 

[Reefreak]

Thanks Jason! I'd like to learn as much as possible and see if I can do the plumbing myself. The horizontal distance from tank to sump would be about 25 feet and the overflow point will probably be around 5 feet off the ground. I was thinking of running pipes straight down to the crawl space through the wall behind the tank, then have them run ever so slightly angled downhill the entire distance, and then have the pipe turn upward at the last moment. I'm planning to put the sump on the floor, so the water would have to travel up that final distance from the crawlspace and over the edge of the sump. I haven't bought the sump yet so I'm not sure how tall it will be, but I’m guessing a couple feet.

Please let me know if you see anything wrong with my current plan, and any tips or tricks you recommend.

Sculpin, What you have described will work fine on your drain pipe or pipes should you decide to do a "Herbie" style overflow...hint. Only thing I would add is at the very end of the drain run at the lowest point where the drain pipe turns upward install a T with a ball valve pointing downward so you can occasionally open it to drain any sediment that will build up over time. Good luck on your build.