They can be had very cheaply at harbor freight(under $10). You can get them almost anywhere though, automotive store, fred meyers, lowes, home depot, they are a convenient thing to have on hand.
Looks good. So what did you do with all the stuff you pulled out, LFS, frag tank, craigslist? My tangs wish I were as kind and opened a few swim lanes.
Have you tried sharpening and playing with color temp in photoshop? I have a terrible time getting the whitebalance right but have a much better time correcting after the fact although I am still a long way off from producing decent pics.
When you check for voltage make sure you unplug your grounding probe if you have one or any titanium heaters as they also act as a ground. You can pick up a cheap voltmeter at harbor freight for around $5. I am a bit out of the way but you can also borrow mine.
STN tough to diagnose. My whole tank started losing color and STN'ing six months into my setup two years ago, ended up being my hydrometer which I had dropped. I figured it out when I put a new shrimp in and it immediately siezed up and died, only took me about 6 months to figure out. Now I...
Hey Todd let me know if you need some apatasia pasture I have a at least 20 of them in my tank. If you want to sell or trade them once you are done I live a couple blocks over. I do not know how difficult it is to recover them from a tank once you put them in.
I grow RBTA's quite well under the 23W flood lights(currently have around 40), you can see a pic of my setup at the link below. Stable tank parameters are probably more important than lighting.
http://www.reeffrontiers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40416
I run a 180 and dose kalk in my topoff water and run a CA reactor. I have a 30gallon tank for topoff I fill every 2-3 weeks and dump a heaping half cup of pickling lime in and stir it up. It keeps my PH between 8.0-8.20 and obviously helps with CA and Alk.
Hand warmers are usually rated for 4-12 hours and are not good for shipping as they get very hot quickly and then taper off providing no heat when you really need it, 12 hours into shipment. You want heatpacks that are rated for 24-40 hours, they do not have as high of a heat spike and keep a...
Love the pictures especially the borealis shot. What is your lighting and flow. I ask as I have the borealis as well and I get good growth but the polyps never come out. Does your borealis polyps get blown about by by high flow? How far do you have it from your lights?
I have had mine for 3 years now with a yellow, hippo, and powder blue in a 180. The purple was the biggest to begin with and has been pretty low key, the powder blue is the smallest but has always been the most territorial. Your mileage will vary. Just make sure you quarantine, once you see...
Adding them both at once when smaller is your best bet. Having said that I have a 180 and added mine sequentially, I added a yellow and a tiny blue hippo tang to start, then six months down the road added a purple which dwarfed the other tangs. Then six months after that I added a powder blue...
I added a frag tank which is plumbed into one of the two overflows, the remaining main tank overflow and frag tank overflow both drop into a 8inch diameter filter sock in the sump. I should probably change my socks out more, I do it about every five days when I see water overflowing the sock...
I would agree that a short term experiment will obviously be detrimental and really not prove a lot, but any experiment is worthwhile if you learn something, in this case it maybe coral husbandry. But if the pretext of the experiment is global warming is happening which will melt icecaps...
I am using 5 K4's, two of which are mounted on DIY wavysea's in each corner which helps out a lot with random motion. Would highly recommend the DIY wavysea's if you are doing in-tank powerheads, not too difficult of a DIY. Probably the cheapest route to go but not the sexiest. My return is...