113 Gallon Cube (like)

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May 16, 2006
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Spokane, Washington, United States
Hi all,
I found what I think is a pretty good deal on a cube like tank and would like some opinions before buying. The dimensions are 36LX25WX29T. This equates to about 113 gallons. It's a glass tank that has been filled to test for leaks. I'm unsure of the thickness of the glass. It's just the tank. Asking price is $60.00. I like the size as it would allow me to put it in a smaller than a longer tank. The only concern would be the depth. I'd definitely need MH lighting. I am planning on looking at the tank tonight or tomorrow evening and would like opinions on what would be an appropriate glass thickness for a tank this size. I'll measure it when I see the tank. I'd also like opinions on what kind of lighting would be best for a predominately SPS tank. I'm thinking that a single 250 MH pendant would suffice???? This tank will replace our 46 bowfront, which will become a Seahorse tank, Angie's new project!! All suggestions and advice are appreciated!!

Thanks,
Michael
 
I've spoke to him. He told me it is 3/4'' glass. That is plenty it also has braces around the rim so. If youi don't buy it I will I'm only 15 mins away from him.
 
That is going to be sweet reef tank.

Looks like a old Tropic Life tank. I have one now that is about 20 years old and doing fine.:)
 
I think I would either go with a single 400w MH or two 250w MH. Also supplement them with t-5's, which IMO brings out the color better on SPS. That is going to a great tank! Good luck!
 
Thanks for the suggestions all. Tyler, I'm a lil' afraid of what a 400w would do to my electric bill...lol. I do agree on the T5s for Actinic Blue supplement though. I'd thought about 2X150w MH but I just don't think the 150s would punch through the deep water as well. Although, once I get an inch or two of sand in there, we're talking 26-27"...yeah....still pretty far. I'll have to do some thinking and research in that area. Also wondering if I should drill for a CL system. Still gotta figure out a stand and sump too...lol. Oh well, it's a project. I'll be studying up and bugging you all for advice while Angie's doing the same for her seahorse tank...lol.
 
My tank is 24" deep and I have 3/ 150w MH with pc supplements and I regret not getting 250w because I can't keep the sps I want
 
for 29" and an sps tank youll definately want a 400 IMO... youll need that to really punch the light to the bottom if you plan to keep sps down there... also, with one bulb over a 36" tank youll want the best reflector you can find to avoid dark corners... i recommend the lumenarc mini... and remember, lighting is only one part of the power youll use (and only for a few hours per day... where you save on power is buying good quality pumps such as eheim, sequence, tunze streams, vortechs, etc that are very efficient given the amount of water they push
 
the lumeracs mini only cover 2'x2'. I also agree on one 400w with the big lumerac reflector or build an island in the middle of the tank?
 
I've been thinking about an island...or at least higher live rock near the middle. I also won't have to have SPS all the way at the bottom, as I'll probably also have a few LPS. I'm thinking of going with the less light demanding SPS, such as Montiporas, A. Valida, Hydnophoras and LPS closer to the bottom and then as I get closer to the surface, I'll have the higher light demanding Acros and such. This tank will also house my RBTA that's been under 2X96 watt PC lighting for 2 years and is huge, once again, after it's 4th time splitting!! I'll have to be careful acclimating it to the MH lighting. As I said, I'm going to have to do a lot of thinking about my lighting and flow options.

I may also think about building a canopy and retrofitting MH and T5s in it. I've never had MH lighting so have a lot to learn. I've also never done a DIY lighting system. I know I'm capable, just want to make sure I have thought everything through before jumping into things.

What would people recommend for drilling holes for a CL? How many holes? Size of holes? Location of holes? and so on....
 
I think 91YOTA's idea with the lumerac minis is great. I'm gonna get one for my new tank as well. they put out nearly twice the light than with regular reflectors.
No idea on drilling holes though
 
I would go with the full size lumenarcs instead of the minis for this tank. It can cover quite a bit of space.
 
So, knowing nothing at all about MH lighting....lol, I just did some quick looking around on the web. I see that the reflectors usually come with whip cord and whatever socket you need. I would need to add a ballast and bulb? Correct? So do I want mogul socket or DE and what's the difference? Also, I see there's magnetic and HQI ballasts...what's the difference there? Wondering if I should be asking some of these questions in the proper forums...lol...but seem to get more response here.
 
if you are going to DIY (which usually yields superior results since you can pick all the best stuff) you will need to pick a reflector, bulb, and ballast... there are 3 basic catogories for MH ballasts; electronic, standard magnetic, and HQI magnetic... if you choose to run double ended bulbs (aka, HQI) you will need either electronic or mag. hqi... SE bulbs can be run off of any of the three (generally speaking)... the magnetic hqi will push the bulb the hardest and you will get more "light" out of a given bulb, but bulb life will be shorter... electronic ballast will give you more bulb life and less "light" power

a great resource to play around with bulb and ballast combinations to see what the expected result will be is sanjay's lighting site:
http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/

CCT will give you a true reading of bulb temperature (10k, 14k, 20k, etc...), ppfd is the strength of the light emitted by the bulb

hth
 

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