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Leveling question?????

First off, let me know if I should post this in a new thread!!!

I ran into a problem after filling the tank up. Thought it was totally level but one corner is about 1/8" high. I emptied it and am now trying to figure out how to go about re-leveling it. The big problem is that the 1" plywood base is now secured (to the stand and ceiling) by 2 x 4's and sheet rock. I can have my contractor cut the sheet rock and 2 x 4's out so that we can shim the plywood or.....maybe there is another option? My husband came up with the idea about making a mold on top of the plywood so that we can use a sub-floor leveling compound that we can pour in and sand smooth. He can't remember the name of it, but I did call the contractor and he said he knew what I was talking about and it is a good idea except that it is really hard to sand due to the fact that it dries like concrete. (but would be much cheaper then taking part of the wall back down...) From what I understand, it is liquid to begin with and dries solid, thus making a perfectly level surface. It is used for sub-floors. Does anyone have any experience with this stuff. Could it work?
 
Hey Krystee I personally would not worry one bit about an 1/8th inch. this is actually pretty good...

Matt
 
Fixall...

I have used Fixall as a leveling compound. You would need to make a framework on the floor beneath the stand as a form. Caulk the corners so liquid cannot leak out. The fixall is a powder that mixes with water into a slurry, pour in and it self levels. Sandable with normal sandpaper. Good luck! D
 
danno14,

Could the form be built on top of the plywood base? The stand is built into the floor and wall and is unmoveable. I would even have to remove a small portion of the wall and sheetrock just to be able to shim the plywood that is alreadly there. I'm not sure which way to go and haven't done anything with it in the last week.
 
Hey Krystee I personally would not worry one bit about an 1/8th inch. this is actually pretty good...

Matt

I wouldn't have been overly concerned had the entire side been 1/8" off, but since it is one corner only I am worried about torsional twisting. (hope I said that right:rolleyes: )
 
I would say it is fine!
as long as you have some R-tech foam under it (atleast 1/2'') it will sink in and sevel it self TRUST ME!

Matt
 
I would say it is fine!
as long as you have some R-tech foam under it (atleast 1/2'') it will sink in and sevel it self TRUST ME!

Matt

Hi Matt,

I tried that already with 1/2" insulfoam from HD and it didn't help. I heard somewhere that the foam used under sleeping bags at Sporting Goods stores are supposed to work better but I couldn't find what "they" were talking about. I also heard fan-fold insulation was supposed to be great but that only comes in 1/4" x 5" x 50' or so rolls. The r-tech styrofoam compacted itself evenly with the tank and filled in the 1mm or so gaps around the base but didn't self-level after being filled with water after 3 days.....I was bummed:(

Does it need to be set up longer for the sinking in?????
 
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I just cant see an 1/8'' out of level hurting anything, I honestly wouldn't worry about it my self even on my own tank, just as long as it is on that foam. it will sink in strait so it cant twist on you. as long as it isnt out of level by 1/4'' or more I would worry about it..

Matt
 
Another suggestion for your contractor is to hook a humidastate to your fan it can be set to take the humidity out of your room when it reaches a level preset by you. They are commonly used in bathrooms. As far as the fixall goes you do not really need a form draw a line on the wall where you want it leveled to and fill to it. mix small quantities at a time use a plastic trowel to level and feather it out. On the side duct tape would work as your form run the tape at the angle you need to fill and you should be good.
 
I know it's been forever since I posted but for those of you that were tagging along on my project, I wanted to give you an update. The project is mostly finished and has been running for a couple of months. I'm still reefless though at the moment:(. This tank will probably still be a reef someday but for now I am using it as a planted tank in the works. I'm concerned about being able to access the stair case side glass to keep it clean plus cost has been a bit of an issue as well. My husband was not too happy about what I spent on the construction alone (I'm pouting...) We made a compromise though.....for now I will do a less expensive planted tank and supplement it with a nice little nano-reef in our living room! Below are the finished pictures of the living room side and stair case side. We chose birch wood for the cabinetry since all of the doors in our home are birch. Thanks to all of you for your wonderful advice, it really helped me through many decisions!!!
 
Hey Check it out!!!
That looks Great!!!!!!

We will have to come see it someday....

Matt and Niki
 
Thanks Matt! It's amazing how it has changed the entire look and feel of our home. I LOVE opening our front door to guests and watch whoever is standing there say "WHOA!"
 
with a fair amout of time to level with cedar shims u dont need the foam look at my pics:rolleyes:
Ok, I need some advice now.......

For underneath my tank, should I use 1/4" or 1/2" foam insulation? My tank is 99.9% level as of right now but because the 1" plywood is not perfect I have a couple of credit card gaps here and there. The tank is glass and all the weight is distributed around the outside edges. I was thinking 1/4" fanfold styrofoam insulation but would I be better off using 1/2"? Since the lip on the bottom of my tank is 1/4", I am hestitant about the 1/2" because I don't want any pressure being placed on the floor of my tank. Is this something I need to worry about? I've read so much about both sizes but I do not know the pros and cons of either. Any advice would be VERY WELCOME!!!!

Update: I ended up using 1/2", called 6 different insulation companies, HD and Lowes and couldn't get 1/4" sheets. Hope it's the right stuff.

Thanks in advance! ~ Krystee
 
To help all out that have seen this forum ...In my opinion this stand is built wrong....Wh u ask I have been building stands since i was 09 yeah i have had plenty of trial and errror this is one if u look at the last string of studs thus being the top boards b4 the sheeting thier is a difference in the wood due to all studs are cut at about 8mph .thus making them different mill.If u were to take your days leveling the board at the end when compressed still would be wrong!The fix.When building it u must make the last studs run parrallel to the braces on the tank or bottom ring.Reason: wood grain strenght of board will self level the tank if all else below it is right.I do not use sheeting unless out of hard wood others are all mixes causing un even wieght distribution foam is a cover up just my opinion...
 
if u look at the last string of studs thus being the top boards b4 the sheeting thier is a difference in the wood due to all studs are cut at about 8mph .thus making them different mill.If u were to take your days leveling the board at the end when compressed still would be wrong!

I was very concerned last year regarding the level as you can read from several of my posts. Unfortunately I do not have pictures of the fix my contractor used. He ended up removing the plywood and shimmed the the studs. After wards he replaced the plywood and instead of using Styrofoam he put a thin layer of neoprene from here http://www.closedcellfoams.com/neoprene.html which I LOVE! It keeps the tank very quiet. The inside of the walls have been finished and you can no longer see any of the wood. There has been no cracking in the finish either which would clearly show settling. The tank has remained consistently level since with no signs of settling anywhere.

I'm not a contractor that is why I hired a professional. I am very happy with it and sure hope he built it correctly:exclaim: Sorry I didn't keep the pictures going throughout all of the changes.
 
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