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240 project tank

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Big enough?

Well, not really that bad considering what a custom tank would cost elsewhere. Then add in shipping.
Plus what do you do about a warranty issue with a out of state company?

Getting what you want, and supporting a local business is another plus.
 
Hey Marty thanks for the offer but I have to pass, probably a little to much weight for my foundation


If you come get this tank, I'll help you firm up that foundation. lol

It would be a lot of work fixing this tank, if it could even be done, and I'm not convinced it could be.
I sent a email to Glasscages and told them it was leaking, just to see what they would say or if they would reply to me.
They actually did reply pretty fast.
this is what they said to do.


If you take the water out and clean the area with PVC cleaner in a yellow can and then put new aquarium silicone over teh spot and extending on fresh glass that hasn't had silicone on it before , you may be able to seal it. If not, the tank is terminal and becomes a terrarium for plants or reptiles.


I think it would make a awesome terrarium or a pretty cool reptile tank for someone.
 
just for fun.. is it drilled on the back or the bottom? someone who knows their way around plywood and expoxy might be able to do something quite cool with it :)
 
just for fun.. is it drilled on the back or the bottom? someone who knows their way around plywood and expoxy might be able to do something quite cool with it :)

It's bottom drilled.
Two 2" bulkheads about a foot in from each corner in the back of the tank.
 
I've had a couple people express interest.
I posted these pictures in my build thread and figured it would do.
I probably should have posted them here to.
I don't think this is a project where you can just re-apply a bead of silicone and have it work long term or even short term.

The picture shows where the water is coming out.
It's where the front pane is sitting on the bottom piece of glass. So IMO, the whole seam is compromised.




This is a area of concern too.
I noticed this spot when I tore of the cheap plastic trim looking for the leaking spot.
Looks as if some push a chair up against the tank and hit it. The top of my chairs match the height on this spot perfectly.
When I asked the family if there was a time they could remember if a chair back hit the tank, they all replied, " Not Me".
Looks like on of those rock dings on your car windshield, but not as deep. Looks very shallow.



 
make a heck of a sump/holding tank with a best diy reseal and only run it half full!

Wait...without going back through the thread. The leak is only on the bottom, right? wound't a bottom euro brace work perfect? assuming all corners are fine.
 
make a heck of a sump/holding tank with a best diy reseal and only run it half full!

Wait...without going back through the thread. The leak is only on the bottom, right? wound't a bottom euro brace work perfect? assuming all corners are fine.


The bottom already has a euro brace.
I think maybe my original post was a little too optimistic.
IMO the only way to make this tank water tight would be to take the front glass completely out and then reseal it.
Not sure if that would work either. A person might need to take all the pieces apart and start from scratch.
And this would not be a single person project.

I'm hoping someone has a large lizard or sake that needs a new home.
 
Too whom?...

To the next guy who needs to buy some.

You can fix this tank by doing nothing more than adding a new bottom, cementing it onto the top of the existing one. Or save some money and add strips of glass on the bottom edges. If I had room, I would pay you a lot for it. Alas, barely got the 180 into the room. It fit by less than one inch. . .
 
To the next guy who needs to buy some.

You can fix this tank by doing nothing more than adding a new bottom, cementing it onto the top of the existing one. Or save some money and add strips of glass on the bottom edges. If I had room, I would pay you a lot for it. Alas, barely got the 180 into the room. It fit by less than one inch. . .


You are probably right Mike, but I don't want to paint too rosey of a picture here.
It would take a lot of work to remove the top and bottom euro brace. Then the expense of a new bottom piece of glass.


I could certainly use a little return on my expenses of buying a new tank and some new pumps. ( opps, I told my wife I could use all the old equipment )
I spent $73 yesterday in just locline alone.
Not to mention the karma pay back I'm going to owe. lol
I'm getting a lot of help so far. :)
 
You are probably right Mike, but I don't want to paint too rosey of a picture here.
It would take a lot of work to remove the top and bottom euro brace. Then the expense of a new bottom piece of glass.
...

You would only need to remove the top center braces. Then clean out any silicone in the corners, add a tube or two to the entire bottom perimeter, then lower the glass below the top end brace, down into one end and then allow the rest to be set down. The cement will smush around under the weight of the glass and seal the heck out of it. Can even add a bead around the inside of th new bottom to be triple safe. I have done this with much thinner glass dozens of times since the 70s.
 
You would only need to remove the top center braces. Then clean out any silicone in the corners, add a tube or two to the entire bottom perimeter, then lower the glass below the top end brace, down into one end and then allow the rest to be set down. The cement will smush around under the weight of the glass and seal the heck out of it. Can even add a bead around the inside of th new bottom to be triple safe. I have done this with much thinner glass dozens of times since the 70s.


Wouldn't you need to remove the bottom euro brace?
Putting a piece of glass down that is only supported around the edges ( 3" ) would create stress on the center of the glass and break it when weight was added?
 
Wouldn't you need to remove the bottom euro brace?
Putting a piece of glass down that is only supported around the edges ( 3" ) would create stress on the center of the glass and break it when weight was added?

Yes, the "depression" would need to be filled with one or more pieces of glass, acting as shim
 
Its bottom drilled. Would it be feasible for the replacement piece to be drilled in the same spots, or would you have to do something special to account for that?
 
Its bottom drilled. Would it be feasible for the replacement piece to be drilled in the same spots, or would you have to do something special to account for that?

Oh hell, good point.
The overflow boxes are in the way, they would have to come out. Then dealing with the bulkhead fittings for the drains. I'm sure that they are long enough, but it's another thing to deal with.

I suppose someone could make it work.
This would be a nice sump for a large system.
 
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