24in Tall tank would 2 250w Mogul MH w/Ice Cap Ballasts work for SPS?

[NanoReefer411]

I'd like to purchase the Oceanic Starfire Tech Series. It's 120g. This tank measures 48X24X24. I'd like to know if 2 250w Mogul MH w/Ice Cap Ballasts would work well for this tank? Or if 1 MH with the Ice Cap Ballast and then my Spare I have. It's a 250 PFO unit, but it's on a pulse start ballast. I want to do mainly SPS and Clams. I have some LPS and Zoanthids I would still like to keep as well. I was also thinking of some T-5's for supplements or either all T-5's. I'd appreciate your help. Do you know how much heat this might produce? I don't have a chiller, but I have an AC unit in the room the tank will be in. I also have tons of fans. I'd appreciate your help. Thank you. Uhhh...sorry I meant the title to say Ballasts not Ballsts. I can't edit that out.

 

[kevinpo]

Hi Gina,
An electronic and pulse start ballast will run the bulb about the same but the electronic ballast itself will run a bit cooler. 2 - 250W will work for all clams and corals with proper placement.
I really like the T-5's HO 450nm to run with the halides and use them for the dawn-dusk effect. They can produce some interesting colors in some corals especially Zoanthids.

2- 250's on a 120 with sump will be enough water volume to keep the tank at a reasonable temperature with the room air conditioned. A fan blowing on the sump can be added which will reduce the temperature about 3F more if needed. If you go that route a couple of things to keep in mind. Be sure to plug the fan into a timer that will shut the fan off when the halides go off or the tank may get too cool or, have it controlled by tank water temperature (like a Reefkeeper for example). Also keep an eye on your tank evaporation. AC also acts like a dehumidifier and with the already dry air here in eastern WA you could lose up to 2-3 gallons a day through evaporation.

HTH,
Kevin

 

[DrHank]

If I can piggyback on this thread, I'm thinking of 4 - 250w 14K on my 96"X24"X 21" deep tank with 4 T5 actinic for dawn/dusk. How many hours would you recommend running.

 

[kevinpo]

How many hours would you recommend running.

Hello,
8-9 hours for the halides and 12 for the T-5's.

Regards,
Kevin

 

[stonycorals]

As with any lighting system, reflectors are of equal importance as ballasts. If you have great ballasts/bulbs, but crappy reflectors, the result with be poor PAR and light dispersion/penetration. With lumenarcs, you'd be able to keep most if not all sps ( ok may be not humilis, gemmiferas and reef crest specimens on the bottom) and clams.

 

[NanoReefer411]

Hi,
I'd still place high light species like Humilis at the top. Not on the bottoms. =) I am thinking of going with just 1 250 watt light with HQI Ice Cap Ballast on a light mover. I could get away with less light and add more T-5's. I think this would keep heat down. What do you think?

 

[Ryno]

Here's my personal opinion on this. I HAD 1 250 watt MH on my 90 gallon, it did not seem like enough light.....oops I should mention I also had 130 watts of PC. I decided to get rid of the PC and go with 2 250 watt MH and I LOVE it, my corals took off, better color, LPS are fine, all my SPS went through a large growth spurt. I think I may be able to help with this since I just did it not too long ago? My temp. went from 78.5-80 during the day, I have 2 timer controlled variable speed fans in my canopy, that's it. I keep my entire house at 73 in the summer and 68 during the winter. My fans turn off at lights out and my tank temp. stays extremely constant. You do have to account for evap. like Kevin said, but it helps keep your tank cool. I personally don't think you'd be as happy with the single 250 and some T5's because you would lose some of your "riple" effect, which I lost with the PC's. This is just FYI, my tank is 21 inches deep not 24 and all my LPS are perfectly fine. Maybe I'll throw a pic in here so you can see how bright 500 watts is?

 

[Ryno]

Here's a picture. 10K bulbs no actinic, I would like to add some actinic in the future.