2nd sump build and i have a Q

[1guydude]

So my 1st sump i built was a 10g with 3 chambers. Small chambers lol. It has a drain/skimmer, fuge, and return in that order. Im now on to my 5th build id say lol and this one is a 36bowfront sump with a 40B on top. My question is for my 36bowfron sump i want to have the return section and the fuge together or incorporate em, can i do this? I was thinking i would use a piece of acrylic tall enough for the DSB and use eggcrate as the rest of the wall, it would allow the water to flow but not all the algaes.I would still have the bubble trap baffles after the drain/skimmer section....Let me know and thxs-d

 

[eww]

IMO Yes you can do this. We have built a few sumps this way. Here are the benefits and drawbacks.

Benefits:

More water volume available for evaporation
More even flow through your fuge (i.e. the water doesn't just flow over the top of the fuge from the bubble trap to the baffle into the return chamber)
Less trickle noise from water dropping over baffles
More water volume available for water changes if you want to do them out of the sump

Drawbacks:

Less frequent ATO actuation so more FW being added at one time and less frequently
Some macros will still find their way through the eggcrate
Anything in the fuge can easily make it to the return pump. This is fine for small things like pods and such but if you have snails or hermits down there this isn't as fine.

We are currently running our set up this same way essentially and have experienced no ill effects.

 

[Spinner]

Hello,

You may think about setting up 36 with skimming section first then refugium/return sump. Your acrylic divider can be any height(holding back DSB) with drilling holes to allow flow through then egg crate is not needed. You could also build a pump area in refugium that kinda looks like an overflow that the pump slips down into. This will allow pump to pull water from the furthest point from any micro bubbles.

Best of luck!

 

[1guydude]

If im understanding or the other way around, i think that is how im setting it up spiner. Ive thought about drilling holes as well. Im kinda intrested about wat ur talking about with the pump "lil overflow" section though. @eric Thxs i was looking for some input from someone with a sump like this.

 

[eww]

Our previous sump on our last tank was exactly like what you are talking about with the partial acrylic wall and then eggcrate above that george wall between the fuge and the return section. The one we are running now has the acrylic "box" with holes drilled through it around the return outlet (external pump on this one but same concept) like spiner mentions. Both essentially work the same way. There are pics in our 180 build thread if you want to see.

Sent by Eric on his boat anchor for a phone

 

[1guydude]

O okay i c. On page 7 of ur thread eww. Sometimes it takes pictures for me to understand lol I may have to work that into mine some how.

 

[Spinner]

If im understanding or the other way around, i think that is how im setting it up spiner. Ive thought about drilling holes as well. Im kinda intrested about wat ur talking about with the pump "lil overflow" section though. @eric Thxs i was looking for some input from someone with a sump like this.

Think of it as your building an overflow in you sump to house your pump. Pick a corner and build a two sided piece that when put in a corner make an area seperated from refugium. The height will be two inches lower than the water height you want in your refugium. So if total height in refug. is 14" then pump overflow area will be 12" tall. This will allow pump area to have 14" deep water line but pump is pulling from the bottom of chamber

Hope this help/

 

[eww]

Yep those are them Devin. And WOW! now that you made me go look myself it is amazing how far things have come since then.

 

[1guydude]

@spinner okay i understand. So should i still drill holes in it or no? Or is that just anothe method? I like the idea with the box in the corner cuz my pond pump is kinda small and only 500gph. Only thing i need for my upgrade is two bigger powerheads, some acrylic, plumbing, electic wiring, and a stand lol the stand is the one thats gonna hold me up i thinks. It'll b nice when its down though. Thxs for the input guys!

 

[1guydude]

how come 2" spinner? I usually just do like a lil under the baffle before so it flows over lol... excuse my lil knowledge on this.

 

[1guydude]

@eww LOL i like the pic where u got the plumbing all laid out on ur kitchen table! Looks like one heck of a day

 

[Spinner]

It can be 2" or 3" or 4" lower since it not being used as a overflow but a pump chamber. The chamber is so no holes are needed to keep water level and sand from getting to pump area other sea life doesn't matter You can also set a bag of carbon if used in that area above pump since pump will pull flow over it.

 

[Spinner]

FYI: Give your self a little room so if pump is 6" x 4" i would build chamber 8" x 6" +- or 8" x 8".

 

[1guydude]

gotcha. I think i got an idea. Im gonna put the bow up against the wall lol. I suppose my pump chamber will be my water level too huh>?

 

[Skimmy]

if your designing this sump from scratch and you can do whatever,
then theres no good reason for the skimmer, fuge and return not to all have their own sections.
its just acrylic pieces and some silicone and your done.

 

[1guydude]

i know skimmy!~ LOL am i getting to into it. ???

 

[Peppie]

They say the KISS method is best for most DIYers.

 

[Spinner]

That's comming from a guy who is building a multi tier skyscraper skimmer

 

[Peppie]

That's comming from a guy who is building a multi tier skyscraper skimmer

Yea LOL
The key word in my quote is "MOST" I am by all means NOT MOST.. LOL

BTW, the skimmer has gone to the drawing board for a few small revisions.

 

[1guydude]

is KISS an accronym(SP) ? i deff like to plan something and get everything together before i dig in! im gonna have to go back but i think i did see the pic of the skyscraper skimmer! Tall cone... lol better contact time by about 200%