AGA 180, can it be drilled?

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KT535

Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2006
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Location
NJ
Looking to use my old 180 as a sump for my 325. Can it be drilled or will it shatter. It is a Reef Ready tank and already drilled on the bottom pane.

Thanks
 
I know a few folks that has drilled the sides and back of thier AGA 180. I have a 125 AGA tank that I am using for a sump. I drilled the sides with know problems.
 
"Practice safe eating, use condiments"
Sorry for Roscoe's and my off topic nonsense.

Back to topic, I have seen many bad drill jobs, and almost all were due to impatience or too much pressure. Just keep thinging of it as mildly polishing away bits of the glass with little diamonds and you will get it. Yes, you can apply pressure and grind away, but never quite know when the last part will BLOW through with fractures. It is a very easy and rewarding activety if you take your time and pay attention. Wear goggles.
 
Thanks!! OT is no problem!

I've drilled acrylic many times. My concern with glass is when it breaks through the other side, no pun intended. I had a piece of glass drilled at a glass shop and they went through both sides. Would that be a prefered method? If so, how do you line them up?

Thanks again!
 
Drilling both sides can help. Most hole saws use a pilot bit dead center and it will go through the glass first. Then use the center pilot hole to go from the other side.
 
When I drilled my 270g and 180g. I just used my garden hose and let water run around the drill bit to keep it cool. I barely used any pressure just the weight of the drill itself. I drilled 10 holes between the 2 tanks. When you get towards the end of the cut go a little slower and make sure that the glass is evenly cut all around. Otherwise the bit might cut through one side of the glass 1st and that can sometimes give you a bad cut and snap the remaining bit of glass off and will give you a rough edge or worse crack your tank! I can say it got tiresome after the 4th hole LOL. Cutting through .5'' glass takes a little bit of time for each hole. I think it took me like 15-20 minutes for each hole. Anyhow take your time and you should be fine.
 
Slow and steady wins the race. You can even use a hole saw for tile. I used one and so has salmonslayer. The nice thing is they are cheap so buy a few, keep the water flowing, and don't apply too much pressure. Let the bit make the hole.
 
I used the tile saw before with the embedded grit. It worked but took much longer and a lil more nerve wrecking for me.
 
ya but its temperd... and they did that when it was still hot b4 being temperd.

but this is true it is "already" drilled on the bottem.
 
a very good diamond hole saw....

i could get deep in to it.. cause theres other abrasives that will cut this material but this is the normal people thing to do....

you dont need to go buying off a 5000$ drill
 
Another thing that has worked well for me is putting masking tape covering the area on both sides of the spot you want to drill. Diamond bit, lots of water, and slow and steady wins the race.
 
I've used similar diamond bits with great success. Here is the method I use:

1. Apply 2 levels of duct tape to the inside of the area you plan to drill. This will keep the glass from falling inside possibly causing a chip (not likely but what the heck), and will more importantly hold the piece steady in the event you break through on one side before the other.

2. Create a damn around the drill site using plumbers putty. This will hold the water on the drill bit....fill it with cold water.

3. Start drilling with the bit at an angle to start the cut. Then slowly move the bit towards 90 degrees. This will help keep the bit from walking on you and creating a nasty edge to the hole.

Priodically dump some more water in to flush out the glass particles and keep drilling. Once you get towards the end of the process keep it steady so you get a clean cut. If planning to drill a good number of holes you should plan on getting additional bits as they do dull.
 
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