Algae Problem

[fishermann]

I don't think large water changes are as important as little ones often with a small hose, say3/8" clear vinyl from a hardware store and keep the cyno vac'd out. When you get your RO/DI unit then you could start with larger wtr changes. Watch your feedings and another thing that helps is to shorten your lighting times and if you don't have sps you can really shorten it until your tank cycles through this faze which it well in time.

 

[fishermann]

I just reread yor post, you should have aleast 2 1200 maxi-jets{alot better ph then rio} in a 72 gal tank, I have 5 in my 75 and 3 in my 60 plus a high flow return from the sumps in each tank.

 

[Beeba]

This may sound dumb but what is the benefit of using a smaller hose to vacuum? Less water and more gunk maybe?

I have been changing 10 gallons per week and vacuuming the sand but using a bigger hose.

What position would be best for the powerheads? I have one that is just about in the middle blowing the opposite direction as my return pump. I used the RIO in my rock curing container and after I finished curing I just added it to my tank. I'm still learning so I try to add things a little at a time to see what reaction it has.

My b-day wish list is getting bigger with every post.

 

[jesshimom]

Hey there Beeba,

I know about those birthday lists! I have an extra Maxijet 1200 I don't need as I ordered too many and if you PM me your address I'd happily send it to you! I've gotten quite a few freebies off here & sounds like a good time to reciprocate!!

Colleen

 

[NaH2O]

My b-day wish list is getting bigger with every post.

LOL - just wait to see the size of the list by Christmas!

Colleen, wow! That's very generous of you!!! Awesome!

 

[fishermann]

beeba you hit it on the head you can vac a lot and not have to siphon alot of water out to do it. it gives you plenty of time to do your vacuming of the rock and the cyno, but yet vacs cyno really good. You asked about Ro/DI units, maybe some are better then others i'm not sure but i think they all pretty much do the samething. You want to get one with clear housings on the filters so you can keep an eye on the cartigages. Mine is a 100 gal. per day one, they don't cost that much more and if I would ever have a need to make alot of water I can. Don't get a inline tds meter either,get a handheld, I was told by the mfg. of my RO/DI unit they are alot more accurate and it's nice to be able to measure anything you want. Also I got a flush valve put on my unit so I can flush off the surface of the membrain a couple times a month, makes the membrane last longer and that is the expensive part to replace, the other elements aren't that expensive.

 

[Beeba]

Colleen that is a very kind offer. I will PM you with my info. I will gladly pay you through paypal or by mail if you would let me know the shipping costs.

Tonight I did a 20% water change by using a small hose to vacuum the gunk off the rock and sand. It did a great job at cleaning it up. After the water change I checked my phosphates and they were even higher than yesterday. I had some salt water still in my bucket so I did a test on it and the phosphate was just as high as the aquarium. Then I tested the tap water and it showed no phosphates. I take this to mean that my salt is the phosphate culprit. I thought Instant Ocean was supposed to be a good salt to use. Now what? Any suggestions?

 

[fishermann]

I can't help you since i don't use IO salt

 

[Gordo]

I would take a sample of the salt back to the store you bought it at and have them test it. If they come up with the same results return the salt.

 

[esmith]

Beeba, I had this happen to me a while back but it was Tropic Marin that was high is phosphates. I tested both the R/O water and a batch mixed with IO (Instant Ocean), and the Tropic Marin was to blame. Luckily I only had a couple cups left, and just threw out the remainder.

I would definately do as Gordo said, take it back and if it tests high at the store, tell them you would like to exchange it for another batch (preferable a new shipment from IO). Sometimes the manufacturer has batches of Salt, but I don't think this happens to often.

Hope things work out for ya,

Eliyah

 

[Beeba]

I took both of my samples to the LFS today and luckily the owner was there. He said he will call the company for Instant Ocean tomorrow and then get back with me. They also use IO so they mixed up a batch to test it and it came up clean. The guy that sold me the salt remembered me buying it which is good since I don't have the bag or receipt. The bad part is that they didn't seem too eager to refund my money or even exchange the salt. We will see what happens tomorrow.

 

[Scooterman]

IO has sent out some bad bags, left water cloudy & had high ALK, so this may be a problem, hope you find out for sure.

 

[jmaxwell]

I still would put the R/O unit at the top of your list...you really are playing w/ fire w/ out one as tap water can change w/ out notice and is full of nasty stuff even if phosphate is absent....also get is much flow in your tank as possible...this really helps w/ the cyano's.

Jim

 

[NaH2O]

Beeba, if your phosphate test kit says it can be used on fresh water, I would test it before the salt mix is added. There is the possibility of the high phosphates coming from the tap and not the salt mix (not disagreeing, just offering another possiblity). Not all test kits allow you to test fresh water, so be sure yours does before attempting the test -- look at the packaging.

Another point I would like to make is the container you have the premixed salt water in. Sometimes phosphates can leach from the container depending on type. Example would be non food grade garbage cans and the plasticizers used in the manufacture process. Food grade garbage cans are the way to go for storage.

 

[NaH2O]

OK...I found this quote on the Phosphates thread Curt linked above:

Originally posted by mojoreef
Citys use P in the water systems to clean and disolve calcium scaling on pipes, so it is almost a garrantee evey water system has it. RO/DI is a good method for eliminating it at that source for sure.

I thought this was an interesting statement on why we have phosphates in our tap water.

 

[Witfull]

does the floride make the corals stronger....lol?

 

[NaH2O]

LOL - if not maybe we can give them a flouride treatment!

 

[Beeba]

Okay... I did a few tests. My phosphate test kit is a Sailafert and it will test freshwater, saltwater, tap, or RO/DI. The tapwater comes up clear yet the freshly mixed Instant Ocean saltwater is not quite as blue as 3 but darker than a 1 so I guess that to be a 2. The bucket that I use for mixing my water changes is an empty IO salt bucket. I also made up a one gallon milk jug that I use for my freshwater tank and it showed the higher levels as well. Since the local LFS didn't seem to want my business enough to offer an exchange of the salt I am having my husband buy a new bucket while he is in Columbus today. I will do a larger water change tomorrow while sucking up the creeping cyanobacteria. I did 15 gallon (20%) on Monday and 10 gallon on Thursday. The cayno doesn't seem to be building up as fast as it did after the first change so maybe there is hope. I'll do a complete run of tests today and then again after the water change tomorrow to see how it goes. Any other suggestions? Do the containers that I'm using seem okay?

 

[Beeba]

Today's test results: Ammonia 0, Nitrate 0, pH 8.1, Phosphate 2, Salinity 1.024, Temperature 79, Nitrite >.1, Oxygen 8 mg/l, calcium 400, and alkalinity 4.46.

I'm open for suggestions. As far as I can tell my only real problem is my phosphate.

 

[Curtswearing]

Great job on the detective work. When you watch a mystery movie, the person you first suspect is rarely the perpetrator. Sometimes you have to step back, look at the possibilities, and start eliminating the usual suspects.

You have done a great job of eliminating the usual suspects. It's a shame your LFS is wimping out. I would recommend taking this up with Aquarium Systems.