algae problems

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divebud

Active member
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Messages
38
Location
Jupiter, Fl
I'm having a very heavy algae growth problem. There are all types and colors. I had the water tested at the LFS and all levels are good. I have 6 T5 on for 8 hours a day. Temp varies from 78-80. I have a few hermit crabs and a yellow tang who has his work cut out for it. The algae is constantly giving off bubbles (it looks like I have an air stone going).

What can I do to get rid of the algae (I have cleaned things up twice and it keeps growing back)
 
divebud - did the LFS give you numbers? I am curious to what your nitrates and phosphates are, if they tested for them? How old is your set-up? Are you skimming? Do you use RO/DI water? Have you tried adding some snails to the mix? Sorry for all the questions, I'm just trying to narrow down a source. Tell us a little more about your set-up.
 
LFS reading are the same as my home test. Sal - 1.025, Ph 7.8 Alk 287ppm, all other at zero (amm,nit,phos).
Set up is 10 yrs old - just aded coral 3 months ago all growing like weeds (softies only).
Got a skimmer and UV running full time.
Using purchsed DI/Ro water (tested good).
There are a few snails and red legs.
Bubs are three months old.
Good flow directed across the top from left and down at 45 from right. Good circulation.
I basted and netted the tank last night, For the third time this month.
 
Divebud - do you know what your calcium is? I would like to compare it to your alk (which converts to approx 16 dKH and 5.7 meq/l). Your pH is low, so I would try and bump that up.

Is there a sandbed in this tank? You can also try and see if you get phosphate readings from other places. Stick the syringe in a rock and take a water sample there to test for phosphates. Also, if you have a sandbed or other substrate, you can make a little divot, and use the water from that spot to test for phosphates. I've used a turkey baster for this....created a divot, used the turkey baster to get the water....placed the water in a cup, and used the test syringe to remove the water.

Are the rocks approximately 10 years old?
 
In addition to the above....

What time of day did you test the pH? With an alk that high, a low pH reading during the day could easily indicate a CO2 problem which in turn could be ramping up your algae problem.

Does the tank have a solid lid and what's your water flow like? What kind of bioload?

Cheers
Steve
 
Thanks everyone for asking questions to help with the problem !

The LFS and I did not have a calcium test, buy I do add a 2 part calcium. The LFS said not to add the second part as it will boost the ALK even higher.

Yes there is a sand bed.

It sounds like high phosphates is the most common concern. I will test in areas, but I did add some phosbuster a few days ago. The LFS was not concerned about the high ALK and advised not to add a buffer as this will also raise the ALK.

"indicate a CO2 problem" are there any other signs of this and how is it fixed ?

Lid is open on top with fans blowing thru side venting up through light - really good air flow. Water flow seems good I have 2 outlets 1 ejects across the surface creating good flow and the other (on the opposite side) points dow creating a good circular effect.

The rock is about 2 years old but never grow due to lack of lighting. Everything is taking off since I added the lights.

I have a few small xenia, small star pulps and a few small mushroom rocks. For fish I have a maroon clown, orange anthes, gromma, cardnal, and yellow tang. Everthing seems to be growing really good. My protein skimmer reallys pumps out the nasty stuff, emptied every week. I feed fish
 
divebud - do you remember what time of day you tested the pH? Steve-S was indicating CO2 could be an issue if your pH tested 7.8 at the end of your photoperiod. pH tends to be the lowest in the morning, and rises throughout the day.

What size tank?
 
I don't remember the time for the PH. What would the best time be or should I test through out the day.

Tank size is 70 gal.

I posted some pics in my gallery the second and thord show the algae.
 
I'd test it mid photoperiod, but you could test it at the start, middle and end of your photoperiod to see how it fluctuates.

I could see some cyano growing on the sand, you may want to get a power head down near the bottom blowing across. Not down far enough to create a sand storm, but close enough to provide some extra circulation.

A couple of more questions. Hopefully, others can come up with some ideas, too. You say the RO/DI water is purchased and tested good. What did you test for? Also, in the photos I noticed a window in the background....does any direct light hit the tank? What type of skimmer (sorry if you answered this already)? How often and what are you feeding? Does the algae resemble Bryopsis at all?

I'm posting your pics here:

tank-5_13_05_1.jpg

tank-5_13_05_3.jpg

tank-5_13_05_2.jpg
 
There is no direct light hitting the tank it's in the middle of the living room. The protein skimmer is an Aqua Clear. I feed the fish about every other day. No more than they can eat before it hits the ground. I feed the softies phytoplankton once a week and a dose of iodine.

"Does the algae resemble Bryopsis at all?" I don't think so it's not really plant like more dark green and stringy with no stocks.
 
I really can't get a powerhead to blow across the bottom and keep it clear. I was think of getting some "creature" to take care of that - Any suggestions fish, starfish, crab ?
 
divebud - I think trying to find the source of excess nutrients is going to help. Try the phosphate tests from the rock and sand that I posted earlier. Also, test your mix water prior to a water change, to make sure it is clean of nitrates and phosphates. Let us know what you come up with.

Adding some nassarius snails may help with the sand bed. You may also benefit from adding a more diverse group of snails. What types do you have in there now?

That's good - no bryopsis. It was hard for me to tell, and I was curious to what type of algae it was. Keep blasting the rocks with a powerhead.
 
The LFS sold me some red slime remover to help with the problem, I also got a sand sifting start fish, 20 atlantic grazer snails and an eyelash algae eating blennie. They also said to put carbon in the system. They sold me a packet to put in the wet dry. I will try the red slime remover tomorrow. They told me to shut off my UV and Protein skimmer, then with-in 24 hours do a 20% water change then add the carbon. I aso got a blue tang. Hopefully this will help a lot. It's so hard to tell if they are just trting to sell stuff or help the problem - at least I wanted the tang.
 
I'm not big with the slime removers. The reason being, is it doesn't target only the cyanobacteria, but also other beneficial bacterias. Watch the sand sifting starfish, as it will eat the sandbed fauna.

Have you tried the spot phosphate tests? Just curious
 
Hi,
Just wondering how this all turned out. I have the same problem, unfortunately. Tank is an 80 w/ sand bed, about a year and a half old. Upgraded lighting, flow, always been using R/O, never had nitrate or phosphate after cycling and never tried the spot tests suggested, but they sound interesting. I have acid green, blackish green and red slime algae galore, they are killing my corals and I want to dose Ultralife red slime remover SO BAD!!! :) Ran 2 skimmers, no effect... friends keep adding suggestions but at this point I am almost ready to quit as every suggestion I have tried so far has not panned out. Previously had a nano with this problem and Ultralife slime remover worked wheras the other brand didn't.

A 45 I used to have had slime with no fish in it so no food was added-I had pulled the fish as they got ich and were isolated. Never had any phosphate or nitrate in that one, ran 2 skimmers and tons of water flow, still grew cyano... Go figure.

I have no cyano in the 2 tanks down in the fishroom which are inadequately filtered, have almost no water movement, are overfed and lit by expired PC bulbs. What the?

Any long term lessons from your battle? Words of wisdom?

Thanks,
Kate
 

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