Algea has me close to getting a gun!!!!

[burning2nd]

i used cheiClean 3 time, it got rid of my red slime...... which i would glady exchange for the algae that follow'd its removal.

made the skimmer go nuts.... had to set it to the dryest seting

 

[Scooterman]

Chemiclean is a fast remedy but not a cure, best thing is to find the source of the problem & eliminate it, I'm not one to add anything to a tank unless supplementing CA.

 

[burning2nd]

i used it in conjustion with several water changes (+siphone)

its in my sump now....

guess it didnt really get rid of anything

 

[Scooterman]

If it is in your sump then that is better than in the main display

 

[angelfish]

yes, need more info here. This is all about nutrient import/export.
Import:
How is it being added? (frozen foods - rinse thoroughly, water processing-RO, bottled conditioners, salt mix used, your hands, anything that enters the water at all. Treat this like your in a biohazard situation, and don't want to cross contaminate.

Test your source water just before you top off your evap, b/c sometimes the source water can obtain nutrients after the RO process from something else you're doing or not doing, like cleaning out your RO water holding container.

Export: Good skimmer production daily, at least one Lb of live rock per gal, also suggest using (2) HOT Magnum Canister filters. 1 with carbon and denitrate, and another with phosguard. Run this in your sump for 24 hours at a time, and you will starve this out in a couple of weeks. Change out the media after a weeks worth of usage, and start again. Increase your water flow, b/c once the algae starts to die it will take oxygen with it as it decomposes. You should also have water flow at the surface of your water to move the top layer of water towards your overflows.

Cyano algae is an indication that there's not enough flow through your reef already, so need to plan on much more here at all levels.

I had this same problem in my 50 gal reef. I had zero nitrates/phosphates when testing, but tons of algae including red (cyano) algae, bubble (slimy) algae, turf, valonia bubble algae, and strange fish losses that I could'nt account for. I thought I had enough flow with a 10x's turnover rate, and 2 internal powerheads on a wavetimer...not!

I now have a turnover rate of 40+, b/c of SPS. Not a single hair of algae. I had to use Magnums for a couple of months on and off to keep my Phosphates and Nitrates close to zero after it was cured. If these numbers grow above .2, the natural process is for algae to consume these nutrients and use them for food. If this goes unchecked, the algae becomes prolific, and your test kits will eventually read zero, b/c the algae is so efficient in converting nutrients. Even your rocks might hold bound up phophates for a period of time. Make sure you use a powerhead to blow off the detritus.

We all want to help, but alas I'm being long winded, and still need more info.

i agree with David, keeping high flow will help on the gas exchange and detritus suspended.

here's something i've tried b4 when i'm having hair algae problem in my tank;

-nutrient could be coming from overloading, overfeeding or dirty filters & sand bed.

-use fine filter wool and clean/change it every 1 or 2 days.

-continuos use of GAC and rowaphos.

-a refugium with macro algae for additional nutrient export.

-change the light bulb if it's old, the spetrum output could be one of the problem.

-keep pH above 8.1 all the times to encourage coraline algae grow.

-use good test kits that gave you more accurate readings.

:doubt:

 

[Salty D-O-G]

List of fish:

3 green chromis
1 pigmy angel
2 clown fish
1 red lip blenny
1 imperial pshydichromis (LOL)
1 clown wrasse
1 dart fish
1 scooter blenny


The biggest fish is the red lip blenny at 2 inches. All are very hardy and eating well. They are very social and very seldom show aggression.

I am how ever confused with the feeding applications recommended here. Wouldn't washing off the food get rid of any extra nutirents in the frozen mix?

I have abandoned the MH until I get some age on the tank and the algea under control. I'm also rigging up a 100 micron filter sock set up for my vacuum to make sure I get all the little particles. There is a lot of debrie in the tank and I think it is from the rock and not excess food so with that in mind this weekend I will give it a very thorough cleaning.

As far as water flow around the rocks, it is very good in my opinion. I can see food particles flow through the rock so I don't believe flow is a problem. I have 8 Line-Loc return nozzles directing water in the front, back and sides in different directions so there won't be any dead spots. I also didn't stack the rocks tight together. Lots of caves and crevaces for flow. Pictures don't do it justice or I would post some.

I'm gonna leave the snails and hermits as is for now. For as little fish I have I would rather they concentrate on that green $#@T then the fish waste. I thoroughly understand going slow on this but I had water get into my outlet on my 54 corner and almost burn the house down so to get at it I had to strip the tank down to move it so I prematurely moved everything to the new tank sooner than I wanted. What I'm hoping for is as much help from you guys to keep from losing anything which so far has been awesome help.

Thanks to my IFS Family,


Jerry

 

[burning2nd]

just from me washing and changeing from frozen all the time... made i think the biggest change in algae growth....

even the 2 and half buckets worth of salt (on a 30) in less then a year) didnt have the inpact i wanted to see.... the best help was the sump mainly relocating the algae from my main leting it fight it self, with 10 hours, of light against 24hrs in the sump (it worked)

just let your food soak in rodi water for about 20 min, then strain it out with a nice net (then i rinse a 2nd time) and feed away.

insted of doing one super big cleaning, you might want to consiter several small cleanings, (like 24/7)



another option.... Just a thought.....

let it grow, and grow and grow. (right b4 it take over the hole thing) get it all ,

kinda like a export, but not convential

 

[Scooterman]

The biggest fish is the red lip blenny at 2 inches. All are very hardy and eating well. They are very social and very seldom show aggression.

I am how ever confused with the feeding applications recommended here. Wouldn't washing off the food get rid of any extra nutirents in the frozen mix?

Congrats Jerry, I think you have enough information here to get a your problem fixed, it will need time so don't panic right away, just keep it up.

On your fish with a 180 you should have plenty of room for your fish, they will grow fast.

Soaking your frozen food in the ro/di water helps remove lots of phosphates typically applied as preservatives, even fresh it is a good practice to remove as much P as you can, it won't leach out your vitamins, also you could get some Zoe or other vitamins to supplement them from time to time.

 

[Salty D-O-G]

Another lesson learned tonight. I put sunpod bulbs in and my SPS perked right up. The others were just true atinic. Finally a good night.

Jerry

 

[Skimmy]

i gotta say that an aqua medic t1000 is grossly overrated, and no where near the type of skimmer a 180g mixed reef w/ sps should have.
you could try mesh modding it though, it would probably scream after that.
are you familiar with the impellar mesh modification salty dog?

 

[Salty D-O-G]

No I am not but interested:idea:

Jerry

 

[Haole]

I’m interested too Jerry!
In the meantime here’s a link I found within another link that skimmerwhisperer had provided elsewhere.
It’s a huge thread so get comfortable. :lol:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=966407

 

[Salty D-O-G]

I can see what they are saying. I may try it.